Lippert electric 3.0 front jacks

[Jims94vmx]

Been noticing jack errors more lately. Re homed system and having a hard time getting front left jack to cooperate. Usually I would hit retract and drop front an inch or so, then it would respond and go up.

I tried manually but it is hard to turn on top 3/8 drive. I am just nose high at the moment at a state park for the week. Thoughts?

Where is the power going into the control unit so I can pull power from it for a few minutes to reset?

Lastly, anyone using an Andersen hitch having this problem? Wondering if always going so high to hitch is stressing legs?

Thanks.

[Country Campers]

You might have a failing front left jack nut. I seen this at a Rally where the owner could not unhook from the truck because the front left jack kept getting an error message, the nut inside the jack that does all of the work was stripped. Hopefully this is not your problem. There is a wire harness right at the jack motor, on top, that you could disconnect to see if that helps. Other than that the power wire for the controller is located on the group of breakers behind the battery.

Brian

[Jims94vmx]

Wanted to follow up. used my 3 ton hydraulic jack under the front frame left side. Was able to take off just enough to get it to retract. Then did the home process to clear error.

All going well so far....then went into manual mode to drop front jacks. As soon as left jack hit the ground it stopped and the error.

So decided 1 more time to switch front wires at controller. Left front controller easily moved the right landing gear....so not the controller.

No rv dealer had a landing gear but would order it for over 700 bucks.....

Called E Trailer and will have 1 shipped to a friends house this week that we are seeing Sunday. Oh, 530 price shipped and tax.

Fun of full timing! Good thing I am handy! Lol

[Jims94vmx]

Anyone actually lube their worm gear or nut?

[TedS]

I did yesterday. I drilled a hole high on the outer legs and used a spray lube with its included straw.

[Jims94vmx]

I did yesterday. I drilled a hole high on the outer legs and used a spray lube with its included straw.

May I ask what lube? Something you decided or were told by LCI?

[TedS]

Lucas chain lube intended for open drives. It dries after a time and leaves a lubrication film.

[Jims94vmx]

Lucas chain lube intended for open drives. It dries after a time and leaves a lubrication film.

Do you notice a difference in sound or smoother? I was originally thinking white lithium squirted into a similar hole. Can't imagine dirt going all the way up to top nut.....?

[TedS]

I did not cycle the leg fully. It seems to be running with less effort. I'm not worried about dirt.

[Jims94vmx]

You might have a failing front left jack nut. I seen this at a Rally where the owner could not unhook from the truck because the front left jack kept getting an error message, the nut inside the jack that does all of the work was stripped. Hopefully this is not your problem. There is a wire harness right at the jack motor, on top, that you could disconnect to see if that helps. Other than that the power wire for the controller is located on the group of breakers behind the battery.

Brian

Got to our Workamping gig in Michigan today. Lifted camper off hitch then started manually lowering and boom. Failed. New one ordered and on the way.
Really wonder if the Anderson is stressing them?

[TedS]

I wouldn't think the hitch matters. You do chock the wheels before unhitching, don't you?

[Jims94vmx]

I do. Still seems to pull up on the truck some before it releases.

[Country Campers]

Got to our Workamping gig in Michigan today. Lifted camper off hitch then started manually lowering and boom. Failed. New one ordered and on the way.
Really wonder if the Anderson is stressing them?

I do not think the hitch would cause any extra stress on that jack. It is interesting that the front street side jack is bad on yours. I seen this same thing at the National Rally a few years ago and have also heard of a few others with the similar problem. I think it is just being "well" used or used often. The insides are steel on steel with very little lubrication so something will wear out.

Brian

[Cate&Rob]

After chocking the trailer wheels, I put the truck in neutral and let it float until there is no fore/aft load on the hitch jaws. (Then, remember to apply the parking brake and put the truck back in Park ). This is with a standard (B&W) 5th wheel hitch, but I think the principle would apply to the Andersen system. The trailer legs should definitely not be lifting the truck!

Rob

[Jims94vmx]

After chocking the trailer wheels, I put the truck in neutral and let it float until there is no fore/aft load on the hitch jaws. (Then, remember to apply the parking brake and put the truck back in Park ). This is with a standard (B&W) 5th wheel hitch, but I think the principle would apply to the Andersen system. The trailer legs should definitely not be lifting the truck!

Rob

The lift is just some bed movement. when it releases the truck bed drops an inch or so....been 6 years, not always that movement. Hard to tell which way truck is putting pressure on the ball/hitch. Really thinking of changing hitch anyways. Andersen has let my tonneau rails get hit a few times.