2022 2670MK with Furrion 10cu.ft. 12vdc Refrigerator - No power

[Obe]

I have a 2022 2670MK with the Furrion 12VDC refrigerator. It worked great all last year. The rig is winterized connected to 50amp circuit, no need to disconnect the battery. I left the refrigerator on (no food) when I winterized. I checked it in December and it was fine, still making coolies and light came on when the door opened. I just de-winterized now in March and found the refrigerator without power - no coolies, no light when the door is opened. Since all other DC loads work fine (battery disconnect is on, full battery charge), I figured it may be a fuse. I checked for a fuse at the distribution panel - no fuse labeled for the refrigerator and all the fuses were good anyway (no open indicator light).

So the question now is: Does anyone know where the fuse is to the Furrion 12VDC refrigerator is located? I heard unsubstantiated rumors that it is behind the refrigerator. That doesn't seem user friendly, in fact that would be downright user hostile. I wanted verification of that before going through the trouble of pulling the refrigerator out. There is no outside access panel to the back of the Furrion 12VDC refrigerator on the 2670. I sent an e-mail to GD tech support, I have not received a response.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, we have a trip coming up in two weeks.

[ncitro]

The main fuse should be in the front on the tongue (since you have a travel trailer) with the large current loads up there. Unfortunately some rigs in your timeframe also have a fuse under the fridge that is smaller than the one on the tongue, so it is usually the one that blows. Some users reported accessing it from underneath without pulling the fridge somehow, but most have to pull the fridge.

[Country Campers]

There was a time when the fuse was in the back of the fridge and a time when they were supposed to be relocated to the front bottom behind the vent cover. This is anybody's guess which you may have. As Neil has stated above the main fridge fuse on a TT is on the front tongue of the trailer, follow the battery wires and you will find it. The reason it is here is because it bypasses the battery disconnect so if the disconnect is inadvertently turned off the fridge will remain with power. Also please check the fluid level in your battery, sitting all winter on charge may have depleted it some. Pulling the fridge is the only way to get to the fuse if it is in the back.

Brian

[Obe]

Thank you ncitro and Country Campers! I found two fuses under the tongue frame that are a direct connect to the battery; 30amp and 15amp, both are good. I pulled the drawer under the refrigerator, no fuse visible on the power lines from the floor entry going up to the refrigerator. I pulled the bottom fridge vent cover, no fuse visible. So I guess I'll pull the fridge out to take a look for the internal 15A fuse. I'm going to put some blocking on the floor since the unit weighs about 125lbs. I'll let you know what I find.

Country Campers, checked battery fluid level, both are good. Thank you for the reminder.

[ncitro]

Obe assuming you find it behind and it's the issue, if you're comfortable with this kind of work I'd suggest relocating it toa more accessible place.

[Obe]

Obe assuming you find it behind and it's the issue, if you're comfortable with this kind of work I'd suggest relocating it toa more accessible place.

I'm waiting on some masculine assistance with a certain degree of regularity to spin the fridge around to access the back panel without the fridge hitting a wall or falling over. From what I can see so far, if there is a fuse back there it's not on the line going to the fridge so it is probably behind the back panel. If the fuse is the issue, I may put a fuse block inside the pantry and run the + lead through the pantry wall next to the fridge to the fuse block and back, then jumper or splice the internal fuse.

[ncitro]

I'm waiting on some masculine assistance with a certain degree of regularity to spin the fridge around to access the back panel without the fridge hitting a wall or falling over. From what I can see so far, if there is a fuse back there it's not on the line going to the fridge so it is probably behind the back panel. If the fuse is the issue, I may put a fuse block inside the pantry and run the + lead through the pantry wall next to the fridge to the fuse block and back, then jumper or splice the internal fuse.

Sounds like a good plan. I have never actually seen one in person, but you should also be able to size the one on the tongue at the same size or even a size smaller (if it does not pop) than the one behind so it is the one that blows first.

[Lonestar]

Obe

You stated you could access the 12vdc power wires underneath the fridge. Using a volt meter, have you actually checked these wires to assure you are or are not getting 12vdc at that point? If not, you know your issue is upstream and no need to pull the fridge out.

[Obe]

I removed the refrigerator door to allow more access pulling past the frame of the slide. Once the refrigerator was removed, I checked power to the refrigerator at the connection behind the fridge, I had 15 volts to the fridge. I de-energized the line by pulling the 30amp fuse at the tongue. I removed the back access panel and followed the power lead to an inline fuse holder that had a 15amp glass fuse. I checked the resistance of the fuse and it indicated blown. Because I am going to rerun the power lead through the pantry so I can add an accessible fuse block (arriving tomorrow), I cut the inline fuse holder out and spliced the wire. To check I replaced the 30amp fuse, refrigerator light came on and compressor started. I drilled two holes in the pantry wall, de-energized the line, split the power lead (yellow-green wire) and looped it through the pantry holes so I can cut and install the fuse block when it arrives. With everything hooked back up, I slid the refrigerator back into the cabinet and buttoned everything up.

So for those who need to know in the future, there is a 15amp fuse inside the Furrion 12VDC refrigerator (behind the panel by the compressor) that is not accessible unless you pull the fridge. That is kind of unacceptable. They go through the trouble of bypassing the battery disconnect to power the refrigerator so it doesn't get inadvertently turned off yet do not have an accessible fuse.

Thank you all for your help and insight!

[ncitro]

Glad you found it, in the short term if you replace the tongue fuse with a 15A you would have the same level of protection in an easier to get spot.

FYI the most common reason that fuse blows is depleted batteries. As the batteries get low the voltage drops and the current increases, eventually above 15A, which causes it to blow. Unfortunately this means its common for it to blow as the batteries start to die.

[Obe]

Glad you found it, in the short term if you replace the tongue fuse with a 15A you would have the same level of protection in an easier to get spot.

FYI the most common reason that fuse blows is depleted batteries. As the batteries get low the voltage drops and the current increases, eventually above 15A, which causes it to blow. Unfortunately this means its common for it to blow as the batteries start to die.

I don't think its depleted batteries. The batteries have been kept fully charged over the winter, hooked up to 50A shore power and voltage is monitored. This model of refrigerator also goes into shutoff when the battery voltage drops below 9.6 volts.

Could have been the extreme cold as the refrigerator was on while outside temps were below freezing. Even compressor oil thickens when its 0 degrees F. Next year I'll turn it fully off.

[Jlawles2]

I removed the refrigerator door to allow more access pulling past the frame of the slide. Once the refrigerator was removed, I checked power to the refrigerator at the connection behind the fridge, I had 15 volts to the fridge. I de-energized the line by pulling the 30amp fuse at the tongue. I removed the back access panel and followed the power lead to an inline fuse holder that had a 15amp glass fuse. I checked the resistance of the fuse and it indicated blown. Because I am going to rerun the power lead through the pantry so I can add an accessible fuse block (arriving tomorrow), I cut the inline fuse holder out and spliced the wire. To check I replaced the 30amp fuse, refrigerator light came on and compressor started. I drilled two holes in the pantry wall, de-energized the line, split the power lead (yellow-green wire) and looped it through the pantry holes so I can cut and install the fuse block when it arrives. With everything hooked back up, I slid the refrigerator back into the cabinet and buttoned everything up.

So for those who need to know in the future, there is a 15amp fuse inside the Furrion 12VDC refrigerator (behind the panel by the compressor) that is not accessible unless you pull the fridge. That is kind of unacceptable. They go through the trouble of bypassing the battery disconnect to power the refrigerator so it doesn't get inadvertently turned off yet do not have an accessible fuse.

Thank you all for your help and insight!

There is a write up on the forum where people are moving the fuse to under the fridge by the front. There it's accessible without pulling the fridge. Furrion may even have a write up and a kit for moving the fuse.

[DPA619]

I had the same problem today with Furrion refrigerator in my 2022 2500RL. Brought it home from storage to de-winterize it. It powered on for a day while connected to house power. Two days later no power to fridge. Removed fridge, confirmed the 15 amp fuse behind the panel in the fridge was still good but replaced it anyway with no luck. I found this post and looked at the 30 amp fuse at the tongue. It was still good and removed and put the same fuse back with no luck. Found a 20 amp fuse just down from the 30 amp fuse and did the same remove and put back in and it fixed the power issue to the fridge. Going to bed now and will check back in the morning to confirm its still powered. Thanks to this group for the lead to check the fuses at the tongue.

[WyoSteve]

Hello, Just adding my Wyoming opinion regarding the hidden out of date fuse in the Furrion 12v fridge. 1st - GD should exercise their influence on Furrion and FIX this problem. 2nd - Running power to the fridge that is not controlled by the main battery disconnect is poor design. (Including having a "fake" fuse in the fuse box labeled REFER -in my 200MK- - what's with that?) At least GD included enough wire so one can pull the fridge out far enough to work on it. Living and RVing 3-5 hours from any sort of dealer or certified repairman makes this even more problematic.

So long story- While dispersed camping near Caliente NV fridge light went out- not cooling. (Did not pay $350 service call fee from Saint George UT technician to visit me.) Turned freezer into ice chest. Went to San Rafael Swell near Price UT - dealing with ice chest freezer- draining water buying ice etc. Went to Provo UT before returning home to central WY. We live 3hrs from nearest GD dealer. Spent 2 days researching problem, devising solution and discovering poor design issues.

Solution - built platform (see picture) to fit perfectly under fridge bottom (20" x 20" x 14.5" high). Moved fridge (working alone) into slide out area to fix. Bought blade fuse holder, blue 15A fuses and some wire, removed glass fuse (local parts store does not sell these fuses anymore), soldered wires together, heat shrink wrap and electrical taped. Blew 4 fuses and was VERY confused before discovering power still on even though main battery disconnect off and blade fuse in main fuse box removed. Now have blade fuse behind front grill cover (see picture). Removed and crossed out labeling of fake 15A fuse in main fuse box (see pictures). Still do not know how to disconnect power to fridge. Might install a toggle switch on the main line in the wall before reinstalling fridge and throwing away platform.

Enjoy RVing
Steve
PS- Plus spent time signing up here and commenting. (It snowed today )