Water Heater cold water hose fitting.

[Cate&Rob]

Beachcamper
Hi Vivian,

WRT the pipe plug . . . MPT is "male pipe thread" and NPT is "national pipe thread" . . . they are the same thing . . . I suppose that technically I should have written "male NPT" . These plugs are not exactly the right thread, but will work to close off the Pex coupling to most fixtures such as a faucet. Let's say you needed to remove a faucet assembly to repair or replace it, these plugs could be used to close off the water lines so the rest of the plumbing system would remain functional.

I no longer understand how the "other" forum is being run and don't participate over there. I have had others tell me that they can't open PDFs that I posted there, but I have checked a couple and I can open them. Perhaps this has something to do with how much and when someone paid for their membership on that forum. In any case . . . anything that I created and posted over there is in our library here (or, at least, is intended to be) and . . . you don't have to pay those guys to see my work! If you are looking for something that I created and posted and it is not on this forum, please let me know and I will fix that. howson Howard has created a list of these types of projects (including mine) that can be searched and sorted. See https://gdrvowners.com/modifications...ification-list

Are you sure that you have soft hose up to the shower? These lines might already be Pex. In any case, if you need to change these, we can walk you through some ideas on how to accomplish this.

Rebuilding the whole plumbing system seems rather daunting but is actually easier (if you have the time) that fighting with the leaks one-by-one. As you know, I stripped everything out and started over. Once the rat's nest was gone and I had an empty space to work in, I could build each layer in a neat and logical order. With everything now Pex and brass fittings, things are reasonably accessible and I have not had any more leaks. (See attached)

Rob

[Beachcamper]

Beachcamper
Hi Vivian,

Are you sure that you have soft hose up to the shower? These lines might already be Pex. In any case, if you need to change these, we can walk you through some ideas on how to accomplish this.

Rebuilding the whole plumbing system seems rather daunting but is actually easier (if you have the time) that fighting with the leaks one-by-one. As you know, I stripped everything out and started over. Once the rat's nest was gone and I had an empty space to work in, I could build each layer in a neat and logical order. With everything now Pex and brass fittings, things are reasonably accessible and I have not had any more leaks. (See attached)

Rob

I know you stripped all out and wanted to see those pics, will go to link shared, thank you. Will that NPT Plug fit the toilet water connection to isolate it in case of a leak?

Here is a shot of the soft hose in shower, notice how that hose bends to back of faucet. I think I will stick with soft hose here it gets worse on exit to behind the furnace and back to Nautilus. Just can’t figure out how to do Pex connections for this area. At this point, my next RV will not have any of this stuff. Hopefully GD will change to Pex or I will have to look elsewhere.

[Cate&Rob]

Beachcamper

Well . . . that is an "unfortunate" use of soft hose up the back of the shower. (I guess I am "lucky" that mine is Pex pipe in this area). The problem would be that one tie strap half way down that can be seen in your picture. I do have soft hose feeding the black tank flush vacuum break in this area, but it is not under constant pressure, so I have left this hose in place.

I don't foresee Grand Design or any other towable RV manufacturer going to all Pex. If anything, they seem to be going the other way. Soft hose expedites connections at assembly and that is very important to the manufacturing process. They all build to their "industry standards" as set by RVIA and this "regulatory body" allows the use of soft hose. RVIA allows a lot of other things which is why we have to deal with the rat's nests of wiring and plumbing throughout the trailer . . . but, I digress.

The threaded plug would fit the water line to the toilet, but there is a better idea. The water feed to your toilet is likely soft hose that connects to the main Pex line just under the floor behind the toilet. A connection that is relatively easy to reach in the plumbing basement. Replace that hose with a piece of Pex pipe (which is always a good idea) and include a shut off valve. There are any number of reasons for the toilet water system to malfunction (we have had more than one) and it is nice to be able to just turn off the valve and deal with the problem later. (You can flush the toilet with the shower head . . . ask me how I know this ) See attached.

Rob

[Beachcamper]

Cate&Rob I will take a look and see if I am up for this task. But nice to know that cap will work in a pinch.

Been looking at info on proper way to connect soft hose to fittings, Otekelier clamps to barbed fittings is what appears GD has done. I don’t have that brand clamp have what came with Iwiss tool I bought. Unless you have learned of a better way to connect soft hose? Just want to have proper parts in case that one in shower starts leaking.

[Tennesseepowerstroke]

Beachcamper

Well . . . that is an "unfortunate" use of soft hose up the back of the shower. (I guess I am "lucky" that mine is Pex pipe in this area). The problem would be that one tie strap half way down that can be seen in your picture. I do have soft hose feeding the black tank flush vacuum break in this area, but it is not under constant pressure, so I have left this hose in place.

I don't foresee Grand Design or any other towable RV manufacturer going to all Pex. If anything, they seem to be going the other way. Soft hose expedites connections at assembly and that is very important to the manufacturing process. They all build to their "industry standards" as set by RVIA and this "regulatory body" allows the use of soft hose. RVIA allows a lot of other things which is why we have to deal with the rat's nests of wiring and plumbing throughout the trailer . . . but, I digress.

The threaded plug would fit the water line to the toilet, but there is a better idea. The water feed to your toilet is likely soft hose that connects to the main Pex line just under the floor behind the toilet. A connection that is relatively easy to reach in the plumbing basement. Replace that hose with a piece of Pex pipe (which is always a good idea) and include a shut off valve. There are any number of reasons for the toilet water system to malfunction (we have had more than one) and it is nice to be able to just turn off the valve and deal with the problem later. (You can flush the toilet with the shower head . . . ask me how I know this ) See attached.

Rob

Looking at your post and picture, I am assuming you added the shutoff valve. My line is pex but does not have a shutoff.

[Cate&Rob]

Looking at your post and picture, I am assuming you added the shutoff valve. My line is pex but does not have a shutoff.

I see that this is your first post. Welcome to our owners technical forum.

Yes, I added the shutoff valve. I don't think any Grand Design products come with a valve in this location, but it is an easy add . . . particularly if the line is already Pex pipe.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Beachcamper Lazyness is the father of efficiency. I would imagine the the people putting those things tougher want to make it as easy as possible. When flushing the lines in the shower today, I made notice of how the shower valve is put in. I think to change those lines on the shower valve, you have to work top down. Look in your shower and see if there is a plate screwed to the wall with the valve mounted to it. If so, I think that may be the answer. Pull the plate, make a set of hoses a bit longer than you need, hook to the valve, then feed them through the pipe chase to the basement where you can trim to length and finish the connection.

[Cate&Rob]

Jlawles2

The pictures in post 17 are taken through the shower wall opening that you are wondering about.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

It's hard to tell from that picture if there is a plate with the handle installed. I would guess that the 4 screws in the corners are for removing the handle.

[Cate&Rob]

It's hard to tell from that picture if there is a plate with the handle installed. I would guess that the 4 screws in the corners are for removing the handle.

In earlier 303s, the removable panel is below the faucets . . . not behind them. The first picture in post 17 is through that opening looking down and the second picture is through that opening looking up at the back of the faucets.

Rob

[Beachcamper]

Beachcamper Lazyness is the father of efficiency. I would imagine the the people putting those things tougher want to make it as easy as possible. When flushing the lines in the shower today, I made notice of how the shower valve is put in. I think to change those lines on the shower valve, you have to work top down. Look in your shower and see if there is a plate screwed to the wall with the valve mounted to it. If so, I think that may be the answer. Pull the plate, make a set of hoses a bit longer than you need, hook to the valve, then feed them through the pipe chase to the basement where you can trim to length and finish the connection.

I took those pictures by first removing the towel bar plate under faucet. I am not messing with hoses in this area unless a leak occurs. It’s easy to monitor leaks by simply opening door at pantry closest to refrigerator. You can then view the back of the WH and that area is where the hoses feed down from. I check that area daily I am so paranoid.

[Beachcamper]

Cate&Rob its not easy to replace that toilet hose in my 303. I would need to hire a small child to get back to where this fitting is crimped. My problem is removing that crimp using the small angle cutters. If there was another way to remove it, maybe it would be possible. Here is the connection all the way to wall where stairs start inside. Why on earth did Grand Design use soft hose in this easy straight run down? Makes me furious



And here is another conundrum, PEX for cold line and soft hose for hot at kitchen island.

[Cate&Rob]

Beachcamper
Hi Vivian,

The connection for the feed to the toilet is exactly the same as my 303. Ironically, it was a drip leak at this connection that started me on my quest to replace all the soft hose with Pex pipe. You certainly got more than your fair share of soft hose ! To run one Pex line and one soft hose beside each other to the island makes absolutely no sense! The installer obviously just grabbed what was closest. This does fit with what I have seen on other products. As the years go by, Gand Design is using more and more soft hose throughout the trailers.

I have had good luck peeling back the Pex clamps with a small pair of end cutters. The first picture is rather out of focus, so I included the second. It was just "luck" that I had these in my toolbox from whenever. I have purchases a newer pair and they do not work as well because the jaws are thicker. I have been meaning to grind them down to see if this will make them work better for removing the clamps. There are tools available to cut the Pex clamps . . . but, I have never used these. Maybe someone else with experience will chime in.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Beachcamper

You may get lucky enough to get tools in there by removing the zip tie and by either disconnecting the toilet to let the line pull through the flooring, or cutting the soft hose to the toilet to allow you to move the PEX into a better position.

I have also had decent luck with the crimped dimpled clamps by using a set of end cutters and cutting through the crimp, or using needle nose pliers or a punch and expanding the crimp. The few times I expanded the crimp I needed to reuse the clamp due to unforeseen circumstances. They do not like to be reused, and I have replaced as soon as replacement parts were available.

[Beachcamper]

Beachcamper
Hi Vivian,

The connection for the feed to the toilet is exactly the same as my 303. Ironically, it was a drip leak at this connection that started me on my quest to replace all the soft hose with Pex pipe. You certainly got more than your fair share of soft hose ! To run one Pex line and one soft hose beside each other to the island makes absolutely no sense! The installer obviously just grabbed what was closest. This does fit with what I have seen on other products. As the years go by, Gand Design is using more and more soft hose throughout the trailers.

I have had good luck peeling back the Pex clamps with a small pair of end cutters. The first picture is rather out of focus, so I included the second. It was just "luck" that I had these in my toolbox from whenever. I have purchases a newer pair and they do not work as well because the jaws are thicker. I have been meaning to grind them down to see if this will make them work better for removing the clamps. There are tools available to cut the Pex clamps . . . but, I have never used these. Maybe someone else with experience will chime in.

Rob

I have those same end cutters and it is what I used to remove the clamps for WH project. But this is so way back in the compartment I don’t have the leverage. If I could find a dremel type tool to cut that knob off I could reach it. I could also reach with crimpers