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Furrion range/oven sort of lights but won't stay lit. Leak or too much pressure?

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  • Furrion range/oven sort of lights but won't stay lit. Leak or too much pressure?

    Hi all, thought I'd check to see if anyone has experienced the same problem or has advice, I haven't called Grand Design yet, but that might be the easy answer. Anyway, when my range/oven works, it works great, it's just that after a period of not using it, it won't light. If I turn the main burner, for example, to the light position, and click the starter you can hear gas and it will fire up, but immediately goes out. Same for the oven, I can get the pilot to light, but as soon as I actually turn the oven on it goes out. Now, here's where I am starting to lean toward some sort of slow leak, because if I go over and switch my fridge to gas, or force the furnace to come on (basically another downstream gas consumer), then I can go back to my stove and it will light and work just fine. Less than ideal way to start the thing every morning. So it seems to me either there is a slow leak and running an appliance downstream purges the air from the line. Or it seems like maybe there is too much pressure and some sort of safety valve kills the gas to the range/oven? Hope this makes sense, I am new to the RV life and don't really know much about the propane systems in these things. This is in an Imagine 22RBE XLS by the way.

    Thanks in advance for any info!

  • #2
    If you mean after not using it for a while as in a week or more than a few days then yes you will need to pruge your lines. If you leave the propane cylinder valve on all of the time and you had a leak the cylinder would be empty. If you turn the cylinder off and not use propane for a few days or so then the propane in the lines will go off in to space somewhere, I do not know what happens to it.

    When needing propane for the fridge or any appliance I usually turn on the cylinder, rotate valve counter clockwise until it stops this seals the valve stem when valve is open, then I turn on one of the burners for the stove top and hold a long lighter there until it lights, you should then have propane at all points or close to that when needed. I have found that we only have to do this once we get to our campsite and then we are fine for the weekend , even if I turn the cylinder off.

    Brian
    Brian & Michelle
    2018 Reflection 29RS
    2022 Chevy 3500HD

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    • #3
      Originally posted by HannibalRex View Post
      Hi all, thought I'd check to see if anyone has experienced the same problem or has advice, I haven't called Grand Design yet, but that might be the easy answer. Anyway, when my range/oven works, it works great, it's just that after a period of not using it, it won't light. If I turn the main burner, for example, to the light position, and click the starter you can hear gas and it will fire up, but immediately goes out. Same for the oven, I can get the pilot to light, but as soon as I actually turn the oven on it goes out. Now, here's where I am starting to lean toward some sort of slow leak, because if I go over and switch my fridge to gas, or force the furnace to come on (basically another downstream gas consumer), then I can go back to my stove and it will light and work just fine. Less than ideal way to start the thing every morning. So it seems to me either there is a slow leak and running an appliance downstream purges the air from the line. Or it seems like maybe there is too much pressure and some sort of safety valve kills the gas to the range/oven? Hope this makes sense, I am new to the RV life and don't really know much about the propane systems in these things. This is in an Imagine 22RBE XLS by the way.

      Thanks in advance for any info!
      Welcome to the forum--noted that was your first post so please check out the Welcome Letter to New Members when you get a chance: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

      There are four checks a qualified RV technician can perform on your RV's propane system to ensure it is operating correctly.

      1) Lock On: With an instrument called a manometer attached just after the two-stage regulator, the technician ensures the pressure does not exceed 14" of water column (a pressure value) when the cylinders are opened..
      2) Line Pressure: with about 1/2 of the appliances in the RV drawing propane, ensure on the manometer that the reading is 11" of WC. (Typically done with the heater running and the burners on the stove.)
      3) Lock Off: With the demand off (furnace, etc) the pressure when demand drops cannot exceed 14" WC.
      4) Drop Pressure: this is the test you really want to focus in on! With the lines in the camper pressurized (and all demand off) turn off the cylinders (both of them). Pressure in the lines must be reduced to about 8" of WC (can be done by quickly flicking a stove burner on and off without actually lighting it). Once the manometer reads 8" of WC, the camper's RV propane system must hold the 8" WC of pressure for 3 minutes. Period. No amount of pressure drop is acceptable over the 3 minute period.

      If you have any specific questions fire away.

      Howard

      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

      Howard & Francine
      2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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      • #4
        HannibalRex Welcome to the family and the forum!
        Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, Reid, Cleo, Rosie, and the two newest additions Shaggy and Bella..
        Nash County, NC
        2020 Solitude 390RK-R​

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        • #5
          Welcome to the forum HannibalRex !

          What gets my attention from your post is where you say the stove will work just fine when you have another appliance on, such as the furnace or fridge. This too me seems like a pressure issue in the propane system, which is supposed to be controlled by the regulator. The ability of the regulator to maintain pressure can be tested like howson indicated, with test #2, line test. Really though it sounds like your regulator cannot maintain pressure when the BTU usage is low, but can when it's at the higher end.

          Few questions or areas I would check related to low pressure would be

          1) How is the flame on the stove when it does eventually start, is it a good blue flame like a BBQ burner? Is it more like a small lighter? Is it a giant jet engine spewing flames at you? If it's the jet engine, I would immediately seek help though, just saying...

          2) What happens of you turn on the furnace, start the stove and keep it running, then shut off the furnace? Does the stove still go out, or does it stay running?

          3) Can you start the stove with all three burners running at once and no other appliances? Looking at the specs on your stove, the sum of BTUs of all three burners is 21k, which is slightly below the rating of 25k on the furnace. Perhaps trying to start the stove with all three burners will work.

          ​​​​​​​4) Any issues with other appliances on propane? No loud hissing or popping noises right? These would indicate too much pressure, but if these are happening, please get it checked ASAP. I'm just thinking back to the regulator recall last year, and seeing pictures from behind other people's fridges with soot everywhere. Scary stuff.


          ​​​​
          2019 Imagine 2400BH
          2019 F150 XLT Super Crew, EcoBoost, 6.5' box, Max tow package with 3.55 ratio

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