Xplor 240ML with the Furrion 12v fridge

[2018STX]

Not very happy with my GD right now. I know it’s not a GD issue, it’s a Furrion issue. This 12v fridge is getting the best of me. It’s gone out 2 times in the last 12 hours. Once before about a week and a half ago. There are two fuses Ives found so far with this system. BOTH HAVE NOT BLOWN. One is a 30amp in-line fuse up underneath the camper towards the harness for the 7pin trailer connector. The second fuse is a 15 amp located in the back of the fridge. Every time we take this fridge out of its cabinet, it never sits back in properly and the cabinet is starting to show wear. Not happy at all. Seems to be a controller or compressor issue. With no fuses blown, I’m thinking that either the compressor is short cycling and getting stuck or the module is detecting low voltage and shutting the system off.

So the last two times this happened, after checking fuses, I probed the wires for voltage. While plugged in and trying to power, I only have 2.75 volts across the source wires. When disconnected from the fridge, source voltage goes back up to 13v. Coming from the automotive field, that is telling me that something is consuming way more than it should.. or I have a resistance in a wire somewhere. I checked everything I could but still no compressor. At a last ditch effort, I pulled the spade terminal wire that holds the in line fuse and waited. After about 5 minutes plugged it back in and the fridge just starts working again. Not really sure why but it’s band aided the fridge 2 times so far. I’m about to get my screwdriver and do it for the 3rd time.

I should clarify and say that we are hooked up to shore power and the battery voltage is 13v (full). Any help or advise would be appreciated

[Yoda]

A few things to check
Make sure your battery disconnect switch is ON (key can not be removed) If off the batterys may not charge depending on your wiring
Check the output of the converter. Depending on the model there may or may not be a fuse on the back.
Take the battery in and have it load tested

Also have you called Furrion on the issue?

Please post back if you find anything

Keith

[2018STX]

A few things to check
Make sure your battery disconnect switch is ON (key can not be removed) If off the batterys may not charge depending on your wiring
Check the output of the converter. Depending on the model there may or may not be a fuse on the back.
Take the battery in and have it load tested

Also have you called Furrion on the issue?

Please post back if you find anything

Keith

I have tried everything I could think of. We got everything packed into a mini fridge from Walmart for now. The fridge comes and goes. It was out all day and then all of a sudden it kicked on again. I opened it and the light works as well. Maybe when/if it goes out again I’ll try and check the converter. How should I go about that? Should I disconnect the battery and test across the battery cables with no battery?

[2018STX]

Failed to mention, we only have 1 battery so it shouldn’t be an incorrect wiring setup. I know what you mean though

[Jlawles2]

It's hard to check the convert output without some special tools that you may or may not own, or be willing to purchase. I have a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for being able to test DC current (have uses other than just RV).

1st thing would be to pull the battery and have it tested. One of our other members was having issues with something not working properly. Battery showed good voltage when disconnected, but when tested, it failed. The high current used on the load test machine basically took the battery from 13 volts to under 10 volts and it did not recover. The battery should have lost some voltage, but never fell below 12 based on the amps pulled.

If the battery passes the test, when you put it back in, before connecting the power to the converter, connect the amp meter over the negative cable (if you have a DC clamp on) and be prepared to read as power is applied. This will show if the converter is outputting amperage. With no battery, lights and a few other things will work with no issues, but high in rush demand items like slides and possibly the refrigerator will have issues as the converter needs the battery as a buffer to allow for it to "catch up" to the requirement.

[timh0042]

2018STX This sounds very much like what I'm experiencing. I can't figure it out either.

Seems to be a controller or compressor issue. With no fuses blown, I’m thinking that either the compressor is short cycling and getting stuck or the module is detecting low voltage and shutting the system off.

I think you're on to something there...

I have observed that it seems my compressor runs A LOT... 90 seconds on, 90 off. Some times it'll do 90 on, 2-3 off, then some short burst on, rinse and repeat, so I'm intrigued by the "short cycling" possibility.

...I probed the wires for voltage. While plugged in and trying to power, I only have 2.75 volts across the source wires. When disconnected from the fridge, source voltage goes back up to 13v. Coming from the automotive field, that is telling me that something is consuming way more than it should... or I have a resistance in a wire somewhere. I checked everything I could but still no compressor.

If you're seeing 2.75 volts, that certainly seems like the refrigerator would trigger the low voltage cutoff. How are you checking this voltage? Or another way, where are you connecting your multimeter to check the voltage? Basically, give me more information so I can check to see if I can observe the same thing.

FWIW, when I see this issue, I simply turn the dial in the refrigerator to the off position, wait 1 minute and then turn it back on. The compressor/fan immediately kick in and begin cooling when I do that.

[2018STX]

2018STX This sounds very much like what I'm experiencing. I can't figure it out either.



I think you're on to something there...

I have observed that it seems my compressor runs A LOT... 90 seconds on, 90 off. Some times it'll do 90 on, 2-3 off, then some short burst on, rinse and repeat, so I'm intrigued by the "short cycling" possibility.



If you're seeing 2.75 volts, that certainly seems like the refrigerator would trigger the low voltage cutoff. How are you checking this voltage? Or another way, where are you connecting your multimeter to check the voltage? Basically, give me more information so I can check to see if I can observe the same thing.

FWIW, when I see this issue, I simply turn the dial in the refrigerator to the off position, wait 1 minute and then turn it back on. The compressor/fan immediately kick in and begin cooling when I do that.

I’m a ford tech/school bus mechanic so 12v is all I do. While I’m not an expert by any means, I do know my way around a volt meter and wiring diagram. The fridge came with the “wago lever nuts” connecting it to the wiring of the camper. The thick 12v wire comes out of the wall behind the cabinet and goes into the positive/negative wagos connectors where they meet up with the fridge pos/neg. At each wago connector there is a slot to probe for voltage. When the fridge is “supposed to be running” I probe the wagos and get the 2.75volts but when I disconnect the fridge at the wagos connectors, the source wire (coming out of the wall behind the fridge) tests at 13v. In the car world I would hook up something else such as a headlight bulb and load-test the circuit but to be honest I don’t have any resources with me at this time.

finny thing is that after 12 hours of it not working, it just magically came back to life. I heard the compressor kick on when I was hopping into bed

[JRoss]

Hey guys! I’m new to this forum and have had the same problems over the past few days. I have a 2022 Transcend 297QB. Furrion12v 8cuft fridge stopped working didn’t find much on YouTube but this forum was very helpful. I think I read everything on this site about the 12v fridge issues. My issue was fridge/freezer not cooling. The fridge light was on and blinking 3 times like some of the others. So I did everything I could find in these articles(fuses were good, pulled all power sources for 30 minutes, had battery tested, was getting all the appropriate voltage to all components with and without loads being placed on the system and every other little trick I could think of). Needless to say none of those things worked, not a single thing. And we are in the middle of a 2 week trip so I couldn’t take it anywhere. Before putting fridge back in and calling quits I took the control box off the compressor to inspect it. I did notice a couple wire had some black spots on them and the control box had a little place on it that looked like something got too hot but no burned places. When I had hooked all the control wires back together and was placing the white plug that connects to the compressor itself it came back on and has been working fine. I don’t know if it was a bad connection all along or by doing that something reset. As I said earlier I had already removed all power source(shore power, solar, battery) to try and reset it but no results. I didn’t remember reading about removing the control box, waiting and then reinstalling anywhere in these forums so I thought I’d share my experience and hope it helps someone down the road.