Cooling fans not running. Is there an in-line fuse that runs down behind the refrigerator that connects all the fans and thermostat (limit switch) on the upper cooling fins together down to the bottom? Trying to troubleshoot without moving the refer out.
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Dometic four door refrigerator 1350SL.
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While I don't have your model Dometic, there is an inline glass fuse (in a black screw together holder) near the control module accessible from the outside on my model. Its inline to the wire that runs to the thermal switch on the upper outside cooling fins that ultimately powers the fan. There may be a fuse on the control board too - just carefully pull the cover.
To check the thermal switch you can just jump the terminals to verify the fans work. I was going to try a heat gun and infrared thermometer to verify the 105 F operation, At least that is what mine is marked at.
Hope this helps trouble shoot. BTW also double check where your inside temp probe is. Not sure if you have inside fins, but for max cooing the tip of the probe should be at the top of the outside fin. You should also have a fridge manual in the papers supplied by GD in the black folder - might check there for fuse information too.
Keith
2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Thanks, I did jump the thermal switch and checked the glass fuse and the 4 amp fuse as well as a relay. Still nothing. So I have not checked the individual four little fans yet, I would find it hard to believe all four fans had failed. I’ll check the fans though.Chip and Janice
2019 303RLS, 2019 F350 LB Diesel Dually
B&W Companion
Goodyear Endurance
Morryde SRE 4000
Mize Ms.
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Originally posted by Popeye View PostThanks, I did jump the thermal switch and checked the glass fuse and the 4 amp fuse as well as a relay. Still nothing. So I have not checked the individual four little fans yet, I would find it hard to believe all four fans had failed. I’ll check the fans though.
Do you have a multi meter? Check to see if you have 12V power to everything. When you jumper the thermal switch the fans, if they have power, should com on. To check the fans, jump between a good 12V power feed to the side of the thermal switch that runs to the fans. If this fails trace the fan power wire and look for a break.2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Originally posted by Popeye View PostCooling fans not running. Is there an in-line fuse that runs down behind the refrigerator that connects all the fans and thermostat (limit switch) on the upper cooling fins together down to the bottom? Trying to troubleshoot without moving the refer out.
Somewhat contradictory, it also states:
5.17 Ventilator Fans
The RM1350 use two ventilator fans mounted to the back of the refrigerator (exterior). The purpose is to assist required air movement across the refrigerator condenser to ensure optimum performance. The fans are powered from DC current and are controlled from a limit switch, mounted on the end plate to the condenser fins just above the flue. The limit switch is normally open and will close at 149° F +/- 9° F and re-open at 122° F +/- 9° F. The switch can be checked for continuity. If the fans fail to run, check all wiring, the inline 3 amp fuse and the limit switch. If these checks are good, replace the fan(s).
You can download a copy of the manual here: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Servi...,%20RM1350.pdf
HowardForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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That fuse is good, yet I still have no power to the four fans. I’m not at my camper now but will continue to troubleshoot. I have a multimeter and I’m getting the correct voltage to and out of the relay. My only other item to check is the wiring that runs down from back of the refer and down to the relay. I’m thinking when the shop did my 120 volt wiring inspection behind the fridge, they may have accidentally pulled those wire loose. Was trying to avoid pulling the fridge out.Chip and Janice
2019 303RLS, 2019 F350 LB Diesel Dually
B&W Companion
Goodyear Endurance
Morryde SRE 4000
Mize Ms.
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Originally posted by Yoda View Post
Puzzling
Do you have a multi meter? Check to see if you have 12V power to everything. When you jumper the thermal switch the fans, if they have power, should com on. To check the fans, jump between a good 12V power feed to the side of the thermal switch that runs to the fans. If this fails trace the fan power wire and look for a break.
Chip and Janice
2019 303RLS, 2019 F350 LB Diesel Dually
B&W Companion
Goodyear Endurance
Morryde SRE 4000
Mize Ms.
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Popeye -- not fun pulling that refrigerator (been there, done that). Please follow up and let us know what you find.
HowardForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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Just because that glass fuse passes the "visual test", does not mean it's good. You might want to meter it to see that it is good. Either Ohm it, or carefully measure voltage starting with the fuse holed, then the fuse.
I pass this information along as I have had it happen. Fuse get hot enough to break the connection internally (or corrosion) but the wire stays in place.Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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Well after rechecking everything again, I realized I was measuring the relay incorrectly. Bottom line is that that the limit switch was bad (I jumped it and the fans did not come on) as well as the relay. Not sure why the relay went bad but I should be getting a new one in the mail today from Amazon. My troubleshooting skills are not that great, but I learned a lot from this and hopefully will get better at it.Chip and Janice
2019 303RLS, 2019 F350 LB Diesel Dually
B&W Companion
Goodyear Endurance
Morryde SRE 4000
Mize Ms.
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Originally posted by Popeye View PostWell after rechecking everything again, I realized I was measuring the relay incorrectly. Bottom line is that that the limit switch was bad (I jumped it and the fans did not come on) as well as the relay. Not sure why the relay went bad but I should be getting a new one in the mail today from Amazon. My troubleshooting skills are not that great, but I learned a lot from this and hopefully will get better at it.
Keith2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Relays go bad for a couple of reasons. Fist and easiest to explain is overload. The contacts just fail. The second most common is contamination or corrosion. There are several others, but these are probably the most common 2.
If you can pop the cover off the old one and look inside, you may find the cause. Look at the points (contacts) to see if they are burnt or corroded, then look at the wires for the magnetic pull in coil I have seen these corrode and break.Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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Originally posted by Jlawles2 View PostRelays go bad for a couple of reasons. Fist and easiest to explain is overload. The contacts just fail. The second most common is contamination or corrosion. There are several others, but these are probably the most common 2.
If you can pop the cover off the old one and look inside, you may find the cause. Look at the points (contacts) to see if they are burnt or corroded, then look at the wires for the magnetic pull in coil I have seen these corrode and break.Chip and Janice
2019 303RLS, 2019 F350 LB Diesel Dually
B&W Companion
Goodyear Endurance
Morryde SRE 4000
Mize Ms.
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