Installing an Inverter and Transfer Switch in a pre-wired GDRV

[howson]

I am expecting that the same positive terminal on the buss-bar that the Inteli-Power converter is connected to (and supplying 12VDC charging to the battery), may be used for the Renogy inverter-charger. I plan on adding a 200A ANL fuse to the positive line. Does this set-up sound correct?

Maybe. What is the maximum amperage draw (look at the specs) of the Inteli-Power converter and what is the maximum amperage draw of the Renogy Inverter/Charger? Note that inverters sometimes have overload capacity for x seconds, so look for that, too, and calculate the overload amperage.

Finally, what is the wire gauge and (approximately) what is the length of that wire from the battery to the Renogy?

Once all that information is known there are multiple resources on the web that will inform if the wire gauge is sufficient.

If not sure, post the information (amperage data and wire gauge) and we can give an (informed) opinion.

Also installed is a Furrion MPPT 50A Solar Charge Controller, along with a Furrion 165W solar panel. I expect that this controller will recognize when the Renogy inverter-charger is charging the battery, as it worked properly with the Inteli-Power converter. Am I correct in this assumption?

Yes, the Furrion MPPT will work with no issues in conjunction with the Renogy.

Howard

P.S. Welcome to the forum! I took the liberty of adding your info to your signature line (so it shows up in each post). The Welcome Letter explains, so when able please give it a read.

Jomani -- note ridingabout55 's response was (mainly) directed at you.

[ridingabout55]

Thank you for your prompt feedback, Howard. My answers to the first section:

The Inteli-Power converter has 60A draw.

The Renogy charger has 5 - 65A draw, configurable at 5A intervals. Renogy recommends using this charger for 200AH battery capacity. Hence, my two Renogy 100AH LFP batteries.

Renogy recommends 2/0AWG 5-feet battery cables, along with a 200A ANL fuse on the positive line. I have a diagram showing proper parallel battery connections. I plan to install the Renogy inverter-charger right next to the batteries in the front compartment.

It is a bit frustrating that the buss-bar wiring is not labeled. I can easily trace the wires contained inside the front compartment, but not sure about the wires coming through the fire wall (the Inteli-Power converter is located behind the removable wall in the center storage compartment). I will check continuity between the Inteli-Power converter and the buss-bar wires to ensure I find the correct connections. I suppose I might run the Renogy inverter-charger cables directly to the battery bank, therefore bypassing the converter terminal on the buss-bar.

As stated, I plan on removing the Inteli-Power converter from the RV.

I'm glad to hear the solar charge controller will work with the Renogy charger!

I appreciate your help with this project!

[howson]

The Renogy charger has 5 - 65A draw, configurable at 5A intervals. Renogy recommends using this charger for 200AH battery capacity. Hence, my two Renogy 100AH LFP batteries.

What model are we discussing? Is it an inverter/charger or just a converter (charger)? I suspect it's a 2000W Inverter/Charger as listed here: https://www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pur...w-lcd-display/

If I'm right about the model, are you considering the output current from the battery bank when inverting? The output current listing in the specs is when the batteries are being charged.

The maximum the inverter can draw when the inverter goes into "Surge Power" mode is 50A of 120vAC. (6000W/120vAC = 50A) The battery bank is supplying that power, so 6000W/12vDC = 500A!

In practice it's unlikely the inverter will hit the maximum surge, so let's use the 2000W Continuous Power rating. 2000W/120vAC = 16.67A. 2000W/12vDC = 167A.

My point? 167A (Continuous Power mode when inverting) is way more than 65A maximum when charging.

Does that make sense?

Renogy recommends 2/0AWG 5-feet battery cables, along with a 200A ANL fuse on the positive line.

Exactly! To handle the relatively large DC load when inverting. I'll add to Renogy's criteria--quality wiring and connectors are crucial to a low-voltage system's performance.

I appreciate your help with this project!

You're most welcome.

[ridingabout55]

Spot on again, Howard. Yes, I have the Renogy 2000W Inverter/Charger as stated in my original post. Would you have a recommendation for purchasing the inverter-battery cables and 200A ANL fuse, as I have yet to purchase those? Renogy website shows that their inverter cables are sold out.

[Country Campers]

I have used this company, Quality Copper Battery Cables Made in the USA! - BatteryCablesUSA. They have a great selection.

Brian

[howson]

Spot on again, Howard. Yes, I have the Renogy 2000W Inverter/Charger as stated in my original post. Would you have a recommendation for purchasing the inverter-battery cables and 200A ANL fuse, as I have yet to purchase those? Renogy website shows that their inverter cables are sold out.

I've found Will Prowse's recommendations reliable. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb0LQ19DEaI for the "why" and https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/ for the "what".



Howard

[ridingabout55]

Thanks again, Brian and Howard. Checked out all of your suggestions. I am now figuring out the best layout in my front compartment for the inverter/charger and two batteries. Once I've got that, I will take measurments for the inverter/battery cables and order them. There is a drop-in box in the front compartment for the L/A battery. I plan on removing that box and installing a flat steel plate to cover the hole. Then I plan on attaching my two LFP battery boxes on the plate. i will send an update once I've got everything installed and running (hopefully ).

[Jomani]

Renogy recommends 2/0AWG 5-feet battery cables, along with a 200A ANL fuse on the positive line. I have a diagram showing proper parallel battery connections. I plan to install the Renogy inverter-charger right next to the batteries in the front compartment.

It is a bit frustrating that the buss-bar wiring is not labeled. I can easily trace the wires contained inside the front compartment, but not sure about the wires coming through the fire wall (the Inteli-Power converter is located behind the removable wall in the center storage compartment). I will check continuity between the Inteli-Power converter and the buss-bar wires to ensure I find the correct connections. I suppose I might run the Renogy inverter-charger cables directly to the battery bank, therefore bypassing the converter terminal on the buss-bar.

Personally, I like using terminal fuses (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019ZBTV4...roduct_details) fusing right at the battery terminal. I believe Renogy uses a 100 amp BMS with a max output of 150 amps. If you put a 150 amp fuse on each battery, you get 300 max amps and your cables are protected as well.

Do you plan to add bus bars? I really like the Victron Power In (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) modified to add fuses.

I left the stock converter in place (just leave the breaker off). If something were to happen to your new converter, you would have a backup.

[reubenray]

reubenray - Victron makes a top notch inverter/charger/transfer switch unit called the Multiplus II. However, if you're not electrical savvy, I'd certainly recommend you get a professional install. Improper wiring on any inverter/charger can be hazardous to your health and safety.

Jim

I agree, but this may be easier said than done. After finding how my converter is turned away from easily changing the battery type this may not get done if the wiring for the inverter is not easy to find. Also being I have a travel trailer and not a fifth wheel there is not a lot of room for additional equipment.

[BadDogMax]

Much appreciation to all who have assembled the above information!

But I am confused about a couple of things.

1. It is not explained exactly what is on each end of the “pre-wired for solar/inv” loop of 10ga wire

2. It seems like everyone abandons this anyway when installing an inverter.

Here is what mine looks Like:
2019 17MKE no factory solar

[ncitro]

Much appreciation to all who have assembled the above information!

But I am confused about a couple of things.

1. It is not explained exactly what is on each end of the “pre-wired for solar/inv” loop of 10ga wire

2. It seems like everyone abandons this anyway when installing an inverter.

Here is what mine looks Like:
2019 17MKE no factory solar

i suspect that’s for solar not an inverter. There were some rigs that used that confusing label. If it’s 10 gauge solid wire romex it’s got an inverter, if it is just two conductor 12v wiring (also 10 gauge I think) it’s for solar. One will go to the roof and one will go to get battery and you out a controller in between. You’ll have to use a meter to figure out which is which if they’re not marked.

[howson]

BadDogMax -- I think Neil's on the right track. If you'll pull out those wires (or remove that black plastic cover) and take a picture of just the wires (and post it) someone here will be able to confirm his hypothesis.

[BadDogMax]

Thanks Neil and Howson, you are probably correct. Attached is a pic of the wire loop pulled out.

Behind the red low voltage cable loop, in the cavity where the loop comes from, is some romex. It goes to a 120v outlet on the connection panel, and has an in and an out. Is this designed be deputized for inverter use? Seems like its a part of the GFI outlet circuit.

thanks in advance, Jeff

[Country Campers]

BadDogMax

That is not an inverter prep line, the inverter prep line is orange 10 ga. romex.

Brian

[BadDogMax]

Thanks everyone. Mystery solved!

We are prepared for solar. We are unprepared to invert.