Disclaimer: In general, this forum is intended to be a place for Grand Design owners to gather and exchange ideas regarding their use of and experiences with Grand Design products. Any information contained in the forum should be independently verified by checking with Grand Design, one of its authorized dealers, or reviewing your owner’s manual.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will need to to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Thanks for visiting and your interest in Grand Design!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Installing an Inverter and Transfer Switch in a pre-wired GDRV
We are prepared for solar. We are unprepared to invert.
How did you determine that this wire is for solar and not an inverter? Brian is correct that normally inverter prep is orange, and the wire shown in your pic is the right color for solar prep, but if it was for solar there should at least one set of bare ends not a loop. (Perhaps the ends are still secured behind that black plastic cover?)
A typical Momentum prep (not current but how they used to do it) is below showing the ends I'm referencing.
Howard
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
How did you determine that this wire is for solar and not an inverter? Brian is correct that normally inverter prep is orange, and the wire shown in your pic is the right color for solar prep, but if it was for solar there should at least one set of bare ends not a loop. (Perhaps the ends are still secured behind that black plastic cover?)
Howard
Today I had some time to visit the trailer and do some more investigation.
To check the wire loop without cutting it, I tried to trace the ends. One end appears to go to the 12v buss /breaker on the a-frame. The other end disappears into the underbelly and I couldn’t find it behind the power center or anywhere else. However, I went up on the roof and checked the solar-ready MC4 connector panel up there, and there is 12v on it. This 12v doesn’t go away when turning off the disconnect or pulling the battery fuse or turning off the converter. It appears to be wired directly to the battery at the bar under the A-frame (I’m guessing that there is nothing but the loop of mystery in between)
There is another solar connector on the side of the trailer for portable panels, but that has red and white wire on it, which is also found at the buss.
Seems safe to conclude that the loop is for rooftop solar, and is designed to be cut for a charge controller to be inserted in the line.
It seems that you are correct in thinking that you just need to cut the loop and install a solar controller. I would disconnect the wire that is attached to the 12 v bus and store the wire. I would worry about having the 12 v power on the roof with no need for it to be there. Also you will want to disconnect that when you are adding solar panels or working on the wire for any needs. The side port should have a fuse on it in line, probably right behind the port in the wall, you will have to remove the port to gain access to that.
Brian
Brian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
One end appears to go to the 12v buss /breaker on the a-frame. The other end disappears into the underbelly and I couldn’t find it behind the power center or anywhere else. However, I went up on the roof and checked the solar-ready MC4 connector panel up there, and there is 12v on it. This 12v doesn’t go away when turning off the disconnect or pulling the battery fuse or turning off the converter.
Good grief--GD should not have wired the camper this way (IMO). Since your trailer is a '19 (early "solar ready") I'm sure the practice has changed.
If I understood Brian's post, make sure and disconnect the wire at the battery FIRST before cutting the wire if you're going to install a solar setup. You don't want to short the battery inadvertently. Even if solar isn't added, again as Brian stated, you'll want to do this sooner than later as there shouldn't be 12v battery voltage sitting on that solar connection on the roof. It's been OK for 5 years, but if it was mine I wouldn't leave it that way.
Howard
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
Tweet
Comment