Rear park assist lights

[Jlawles2]

I've read the threads on adding backup lights and can see the advantage, but I did not want the issue of running the wiring up and through the neck.

Also backup lights tend to go off when you pull forward leaving the assist person in the dark and blinded by the loss of lighting (worried about them tripping over a curb or something). Did not want too bright in case someone looks directly at them. Also they are ground level so flashlight or other means to see what's overhead is still needed, but this keeps the assistant from swinging the light all over to avoid tripping.

SO, I came up with my own version of manually activate rear white parking assist lights.

Parts list:
1 - aluminium encolure for the goodies https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-En...s%2C113&sr=8-4
1 - momentary on push button LIGHTED switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1 - 12VDC relay https://www.amazon.com/ESEWALAS-Auto...%2C132&sr=8-10 (Purchased but I ended up using a smaller one that I already had in the box)
1 - 12v diode https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-1N5349...zcF9hdGY&psc=1 (again had some in my box from another project)
1- fuse holder with 7.5A fuse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4 - lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Already had some aluminum angle stock so I used that to make the mounts, misc screws, wiring connectors and wire.

I built a self latching power off to reset relay by wiring the switch to the relay coil and the diode to feed the coil from the out side of the contacts in the relay. This means when the power to the system is lost, the relay resets and will not trigger until the button is repressed.

The power for the system comes from the marker lights (easy to reset by cycling the lights or when you unplug from the TV) that I tapped into at the 4 pin on the rear of the trailer.

Please excuse the lack of photography skills in the dark:

System OFF (verified that they go off when power killed using a fuse with blades between the 12V and marker light in the whip cord)


System Activated:


It's already done, but thoughts and comments? I'll have to sit down and partake of adult BEvERages to draw out the circuit if someone really wants it.

[howson]

Jlawles2 -- very clever, Joseph. The why's provided were clearly articulated thus the implementation (I added the modification tag to your post) makes sense. Well done! The DW and I rarely -- if ever -- arrive after dark to our destination so this will be way down my list of mods, but if it's not too much trouble (and when you have some spare time) I'd appreciate the schematic.

Howard

[Jlawles2]

DISCLAMER: I am not an electrical engineer, electrical designer, or electrical drafter. Symbols are what makes sense to me (pretty common), orientation may or may not be 100% accurate:

[Jlawles2]

AGAIN DISCLAIMER: YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN IF YOU DO THIS.... YOU MUST BE CONFIDENT WHEN DOING THIS AND USE A FUSE FOR THE PROTECTION OF EVERYTHING.

Typically I use a 10Amp fuse in the holder and insulated but non shielded blade connectors to stick into the plug. Simple test circuit for the marker lights or to illuminate around the camper before I did the Penny light upgrade along the skirting. I may or may not own a fuse with twisted blades on the bottom that got stuck into the plug in a pinch.



Similar terminals use the male one only: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-disco...s%2C121&sr=8-4

I could not see paying someone $10 or more for something I could do with protection out of my terminal box. https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0...a-568069456289

Contemplating putting a switch in the Mic Tuning connector box with a fuse just in case.

[Jlawles2]

howson

Howard, couple of diagrams for you enjoyment.

[Jkwilson]

I like it! Don’t want to sound like I’m critiquing, just suggesting for others doing the same, and you did ask for comments 😎. It might be worth at least trying it with the outer lights angled a little to the outside to help see what’s coming while the rig is turning. Put backup lights on my dad’s boat trailer years ago and found angling them out was the ticket for the spot he parked it. YMMV.

I’ll never forget one of my first jobs as an engineer was to build a safety interlock system for a high voltage cabinet. I used a similar setup with two push buttons with a relay to create a panic button and an engage button. Crusty old tech was sure I didn’t know what I was doing when he saw the schematic and he wanted to change it because he just didn’t understand it.

[howson]

Lazydaze -- moved your question to it's own thread. See https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...t-fuse-blowing

[Jlawles2]

I like it! Don’t want to sound like I’m critiquing, just suggesting for others doing the same, and you did ask for comments 😎. It might be worth at least trying it with the outer lights angled a little to the outside to help see what’s coming while the rig is turning. Put backup lights on my dad’s boat trailer years ago and found angling them out was the ticket for the spot he parked it. YMMV.

I’ll never forget one of my first jobs as an engineer was to build a safety interlock system for a high voltage cabinet. I used a similar setup with two push buttons with a relay to create a panic button and an engage button. Crusty old tech was sure I didn’t know what I was doing when he saw the schematic and he wanted to change it because he just didn’t understand it.

I just aligned them to the back of the unit. OCD ENGINEER kicked in. I can always go back and add more lights if needed, I.E. on the frame pointing straight out to create a broad field of light. Since I have control of when they come on, it's not like they will be a safety hazard.