New Batteries, Nothing Works!!

[Gregors]

Helio All, thank you for your great advice in the past. I just installed three new LiTime lithium Iron batteries(300AH). I relocated the batteries from the tongue to the front storage compartment. I used the same 4/0 gauge cables, didn't cut them, just pulled them back through the underbelly and into the storage compartment. I added a renogy battery monitor with a 500amp shunt. I charged the batteries separately, they are all now 13.35 volts. I wired them in parellel and balanced them. Connected the positive to one end of the bank and the negative to the negative on the opposite end of the bank. Turned everything on and I have zero power anywhere. Everything works on shore power, nothing from the battery. Fuses are all OK. I am at a complete loss here as to why I have no power. All I did was move the cables and install new batteries. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks, Greg

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Greg,

There is a battery disconnect switch in the storage area. The Red handle must be pushed in and twisted to the locked on position. This connects your batteries to the RV 12V system. Did this switch get bumped off during your project?

Edit: The switch handle in your second picture.

Rob

[Gregors]

Hi Greg,

There is a battery disconnect switch in the storage area. The Red handle must be pushed in and twisted to the locked on position. This connects your batteries to the RV 12V system. Did this switch get bumped off during your project?

Edit: The switch handle in your second picture.

Rob

Sorry, I should have noted that the battery swtich is on. The Battery cut-off is pushed in and active. The one in the picture is for the inverter. Thank you, Greg

[Jlawles2]

One other thing to check is that green handled disconnect. Ensure there is not any plastic between the mating surfaces. Use your multi meter and check for voltage across the disconnect. If there is more than 0.5v you have an issue with the disconnect.

I know someone that had issues with a disconnect similar to that. IT would at times just stop allowing power to flow. He would have to unscrew the handle and re tighten it back down and everything would go to working.

[howson]

Gregors -- both of the negatives at the shunt look like significant gauge wire. I assume one side goes directly to the battery bank. Where does the output side of the shunt connect and how is the OEM 12vDC return for the trailer tied in?

[Gregors]

Gregors -- both of the negatives at the shunt look like significant gauge wire. I assume one side goes directly to the battery bank. Where does the output side of the shunt connect and how is the OEM 12vDC return for the trailer tied in?

The trailer came with 4/0 wires, so I used the same for my set-up. Correct, one goes to the battery bank and the other was the original battery lead from the tongue of the trailer, so It should be powering the 12V portion of the trailer.

[Gregors]

One other thing to check is that green handled disconnect. Ensure there is not any plastic between the mating surfaces. Use your multi meter and check for voltage across the disconnect. If there is more than 0.5v you have an issue with the disconnect.

I know someone that had issues with a disconnect similar to that. IT would at times just stop allowing power to flow. He would have to unscrew the handle and re tighten it back down and everything would go to working.

I just did a jump across that shut off and still nothing unfortunately. Thanks, Greg

[Jlawles2]

Does the amp monitor come on?

It appears you have the monitor wired battery - monitor - disconnect. in this configuration the monitor should be on at all times. If you do not have power to the monitor the issue is between the monitor and the battery, otherwise it's downstream of the disconnect. Also check voltage across the shunt to ensure it's not defective or something wrong there.

For giggles check the voltage across the screws on the batteries. It almost looks like there are plastic caps in the connectors which would be insulators.

[howson]

The trailer came with 4/0 wires, so I used the same for my set-up. Correct, one goes to the battery bank and the other was the original battery lead from the tongue of the trailer, so It should be powering the 12V portion of the trailer.

I wish you had your signature line filled out...so I didn't have to ask this question...what year/model GDRV? That one came from the factory with 4/0 wiring has me astonished.

[Gregors]

I wish you had your signature line filled out...so I didn't have to ask this question...what year/model GDRV? That one came from the factory with 4/0 wiring has me astonished.

Sorry, I thought it was in the signature. I'll fix that once I get this problem figured out. The trailer is a 2023 Imagine AIM 16ML with the 2000 watt inverter and 400 watts of solar.

[Gregors]

Does the amp monitor come on?

It appears you have the monitor wired battery - monitor - disconnect. in this configuration the monitor should be on at all times. If you do not have power to the monitor the issue is between the monitor and the battery, otherwise it's downstream of the disconnect. Also check voltage across the shunt to ensure it's not defective or something wrong there.

For giggles check the voltage across the screws on the batteries. It almost looks like there are plastic caps in the connectors which would be insulators.

The terminals all checked out at 13.35 volts. I will check the shunt now. Can you clarify your first comment, I'm confused on what I shoudl check. Thanks!

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Did you happen to remove a ground (frame) connection at the tongue when you removed the original batteries?

[Gregors]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! So, I'm an idiot. I incorrectly "assumed" that the 4/0 wire powering the trailer, but unfortunatley it "only" powers the inverter. The little 8 guage wires that I thought were the charge cables from the TV are actually the ones that power the trailer. A little re-wiring and I am good to go. Thanks again for all of the great responses. Greg

[Cate&Rob]

That one came from the factory with 4/0 wiring has me astonished.

This wire must be something added by whoever added the multiple batteries. Factory would supply provisions for one battery with 6 ga wire.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Glad you figured it out.

I was trying to figure out the order of equipment and if you had power to the shunt monitor. If you did not have power to the shunt monitor (you might want to reverse the shunt and disconnect so you can power down the system and have nothing running drawing power) and it should provide power and amp reading.