I did a bad thing..... Now there's no power in our 230RL

[Model Citizen]

Okay, so typically while in the driveway, I'll plug the coach (230RL) into a the garage 110v AC outlet (using a 110V adapter at the coach). This powers the refrigerator, as I allow it to cool for several hours before we take off. Always works well.

Except last time, I forgot to plug the 110V extension cord into the wall outlet - LAST. Instead I plugged the cord into the outlet first, then connected it to the coach. This caused very tiny sparks to occur when I connected the extension cord to the coach. Thereafter, nothing electrical works in the coach, EXCEPT for the front jacks which use battery power. The slide will not operate, nor overhead lights, etc.

Since I cannot easily access the fuse box because the slide won't push out, it's difficult to fully inspect the fuse box area. With the limited view I have of the fuse box, I don't see any flashing lights for a burnt out fuse. But a more thorough inspection is required I think.

The FAQ on the Grand Design website for troubleshooting electrical suggest checking the fuses on the power inverter, which is supposed to be located in the forward storage bay, behind the aft felt wall. I looked there today, but could not find inverter.

Problem #1 - I don't know how to manually open/close the slide. The 230RL uses the Schwintek hardware to open/close the slide. The documentation is too general to be helpful. I called Grand Design, but did not get very specific answers either. The effect of which is that I can't fully access the fuse box because the slide is in the way.

Problem #2 - Cannot find the inverter in the location specifed by the Grand Design website. I need to check the fuse on it.

Has anyone done this same "bad thing"? How did you resolve? Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

[gbkims]

...The effect of which is that I can't fully access the fuse box because the slide is in the way.

Problem #2 - Cannot find the inverter in the location specifed by the Grand Design website. I need to check the fuse on it.

Has anyone done this same "bad thing"? How did you resolve? Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

I've got the impression that you may have the WFCO AC/DC Panel that has the integrated converter, like a WF-8955PEC.
If so the two input fuses are on the front fuse circuit board of the AC/DC panel itself, covered by the front panel plastic.
WF-8900 Series Brochure http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conten...th-space-1.pdf
WF-8955 Manual https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conte...Manual-web.pdf

I've read the Schwintek controller requires a good fully charged battery to operate well.
The schwintek controller has a 12V Input for its circuit board and motors, and the switch that extends/retracts the slide.has a separate 12V usually on a fuse in the AC/DC panel
https://support.lci1.com/documents/i...service-manual

Manually operating the slide is beyond me as I haven't done it so far.

[Model Citizen]

Thank you Gene, indeed it looks like I have WF-8955PEC with the front plastic panel. The front plastic panel will only open partially (about ~30 degrees because it's obstructed by the slide), so I can't get a good look at most of the fuses. I tested the main battery, and it shows 12.4 volts. Think I need to focus on getting the slide open, so that I can carefully inspect the fuse panel and breakers.

[Guest]

The slide motors can be disconnected and the slide can be pushed out manually. This should be done with the rig leveled. There are instructions in your manual in how to override the controller or for worse case to disconnect and push the slide out. The motors are the braking mechanism that holds the slide in position where there are instructions in using blocks to hold the slide in, should you want to travel with the rig to the dealer while the motors are disconnected. If you correct the issue, the motors can be re-installed where the endpoints would need to be re-learned. This procedure is also in the manual. There is actually information in two manuals with more detail in the Lippert manual from what I remember.

If you could find the blown fuse this would be the better solution. There is a main inline fuse at the front of the rig (on my imagine) and close to the battery that you will want to check as well.

Disconnecting the cord while hot at the rig is also very bad since the arc created will eventually destroy the metal contacts on the coach.

[howson]

Okay, so typically while in the driveway, I'll plug the coach (230RL) into a the garage 110v AC outlet (using a 110V adapter at the coach). This powers the refrigerator, as I allow it to cool for several hours before we take off. Always works well.

Except last time, I forgot to plug the 110V extension cord into the wall outlet - LAST. Instead I plugged the cord into the outlet first, then connected it to the coach. This caused very tiny sparks to occur when I connected the extension cord to the coach. Thereafter, nothing electrical works in the coach, EXCEPT for the front jacks which use battery power. The slide will not operate, nor overhead lights, etc.

Since I cannot easily access the fuse box because the slide won't push out, it's difficult to fully inspect the fuse box area. With the limited view I have of the fuse box, I don't see any flashing lights for a burnt out fuse. But a more thorough inspection is required I think.

The FAQ on the Grand Design website for troubleshooting electrical suggest checking the fuses on the power inverter, which is supposed to be located in the forward storage bay, behind the aft felt wall. I looked there today, but could not find inverter.

Problem #1 - I don't know how to manually open/close the slide. The 230RL uses the Schwintek hardware to open/close the slide. The documentation is too general to be helpful. I called Grand Design, but did not get very specific answers either. The effect of which is that I can't fully access the fuse box because the slide is in the way.

Problem #2 - Cannot find the inverter in the location specifed by the Grand Design website. I need to check the fuse on it.

Has anyone done this same "bad thing"? How did you resolve? Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

I'm not convinced the Converter is your problem. *Assuming* you have a good 12V battery, all of your 12V systems will work without the converter being powered. If your Converter was bad your battery would (eventually) die. If your jack works, then your interior lights should work.

Let's start with something simple--are you sure you didn't bump the battery disconnect switch? It's probably in your passthru (it's got a big red key if it's like mine).

To your specific question, I'd try to manually extend your Schwintek slide. Here's a decent video (by Thor) on how to do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dIQp0h97xY

-Howard

[Country Campers]

If you remove the "false" wall towards the rear of the pass thru storage you may be able to access the back of the power panel, should be under the toilet according to the floor plan. This may shed some light on the situation. I do not think plugging in the way you did has had an affect on this , if you plugged it in in your regular fashion you may have seen tiny sparks at the wall outlet as well and not noticed them.
Not having lights or slide working , these are both 12 v dc , this means battery is not fully charged or converter is not working , could also mean that you may have the battery disconnect turned to the "off" position.

Welcome to the group , hope we are helpful.

Brian

[JCR GD]

Start at the beginning... Double check the house BREAKER. Be sure you have power. Then check trailer 120v BREAKERS. (they can look like they are not tripped even when they are)

[Model Citizen]

Thank you folks for the advice, I'll try some of your good suggestions. Live and learn.

[Yoda]

Not sure if this will help but the Schwintek controller should be located in the pass through on the wall or ceiling near or opposite the Nautilus panel. Its a cube about 3" by 3" and about 1/2" thick. It should indicate if it has power. if it has power the manual should have the procedure to override and tell you the error cods if any. Also in the front compartment there is a plastic cover over where the battery and other components connect through a series of breakers. Double check for any loose of fried wires and use a meter to see if any of the breakers are faulty - you should see 12v across each.

However as mentioned before check you house breakers as an arc fault equipped breaker would have tripped under the circumstances you describe.

Hope this helps

Please keep us posted

[Model Citizen]

Yoda, yes I stumbled onto the Schwintek controller in that location - but there's no power to it. I'll keep checking fuses. Thank you.

[howson]

If you get a moment update us on what you've checked and what you found

[Yoda]

Model Citizen
Follow the power leads from the Schwintek controller back to their source which I believe is in the front compartment right rear corner. This is the area of all the relays under the plastic cover. You may be able to jump power from the battery to at least get the slide out to give you panel access. Hope this helps

[Model Citizen]

In my last narrative installment of an electrical odyssey with our 230RL, in which I described how arcing in the extension cord from 110V shore power knocked out all electrical in the coach except the front jacks - I thought it may be useful to post an update, so that others may glean pearls of wisdom and a hearty laugh from my mistake :

1. Indeed the arcing burned out 2 of the 40 amp fuses at the panel.
2. But why the extension cord arcing occurred at all is still a mystery at this point.
3. Installed two new fuses ...........and they instantly burned out!
4. Further inspection revealed that the BATTERY WAS CONNECTED BACKWARD! Had previously removed it to trickle charge it and reinstalled it incorrectly - red cable to black terminal, black cable to red terminal.
5. Arcing mystery solved: I'm feeling confident, that this was the root-cause of the arcing.
6. SO, RECONNECTED BATTERY CORRECTLY, INSTALLED 2 NEW FUSES (AGAIN), AND ALL IS WELL.

So, in a Twilight Zone sort of way, this situation begs a question as follows:

1. How did the front jacks ever work while the battery was hooked up incorrectly? The jacks were the only electrical thing that worked after the fuses blew out. It's like the jacks have a life and power source of their own (Twilight Zone theme music in the background).

[howson]

1. How did the front jacks ever work while the battery was hooked up incorrectly?

Thanks for the update--we've all done something along these lines at some point, so don't feel bad!

I *think* to get the jack to extend or retract the motor changes the direction it is spinning based on how the + and - are applied to the motor. It does this when the switch on the control panel is moved up or down. If you'd looked closely I bet the jack was working opposite of its normal direction. (I still get confused about which way to move the switch to get the tongue to go up or down. )

Have you confirmed the WFCO Converter is working? Your scenario typically results in blown fuses there, too. To check if the converter is working, turn it off at the circuit breaker panel. Now measure the voltage across your battery. Now turn the converter back on (I assume your trailer is plugged into shore power) and measure the battery voltage again. The voltage should be noticeable higher--around 13.2v if I remember correctly.

-Howard

[Model Citizen]

Hi Howard, thanks for the guidance. The blown 40 amp fuses were at the converter.

[OffToHavasu]

2. But why the extension cord arcing occurred at all is still a mystery at this point.

You had a load on the trailer when applying power. Just like a static charge on your finger. You get close enough, it will create an arc.

As a note. With more and more arc fault breakers being required in homes, this will cause the main breaker for that circuit to trip.

[Model Citizen]

Curtis, indeed that makes sense now. Moral of the saga; do NOT hook up your RV battery cables backward.