Ceramic space heater usage

[Lonestar]

My 1500 watt space heater draws 12.5 amps. I have recently become concerned on drawing this amount of current through the kind of duplex receptacles used in trailers because they are definitely sub-standard compared to the residential duplex receptacles. With the amount vibration going down the road, I'm wondering about the possibility of constantly deteriorating conductivity (increased resistance) with the push-in type wire terminals. Could this be an Issue??

Because of the placement of the receptacles in my reflection, I don't feel it would be possible to change out to residential grade receptacles, but I'd sure like to have the ones with the screw terminals vs. the push-in type found in RV's. Am I just fabricating a non-existent problem here?

[BC315RLTS]

I've been running space heaters for years and haven't worried about this issue. I do however turn off the spacel heater when I leave the rv for more than 15 minutes. Propane is a much better alternative and keeps the underbody warm.

[howson]

Am I just fabricating a non-existent problem here?

I'd classify the RV outlets as "different" and not "user-friendly". I've never read of an issue with their ability to handle the (assumed) 15A rating. Plenty of threads about incomplete connections causing open circuits...but that's a different problem.

Inspect the outlet on occasion to satisfy that "itch" and if there's no indication of an problem (it will be heat-related damage that will be obvious) IMO drawing 12.5 amps is not an issue. If there is damage it's likely due to an incomplete installation.

Another option: take the outlet apart and do a visual inspection. The wires don't have to come out of the outlet (if fact DON'T take the wires out!), just separate the outlet backing from the front (with power off, obviously) and give it a quick once-over. If there's an issue it should be obvious (burn marks, melting, etc).

Below is a random pic I took while working on one of my outlets. Everything looks normal (to me).

[NoPeeking]

On four different trailers over the years, I've never had an issue with either space heater use or RV-type receptacles.

[Lonestar]

Thanks for the input. I agree that 12 amps through these connectors should not be a problem assuming the wires are seated correctly in the terminals.

I too have been running electric heaters in my trailer since the eighties with no issue. Back then, before ceramic heaters, I used the old "barn" heaters. Again, never a problem, but the new receptacles, as shown in howson pictures seem like they could become a problem. Think I will inspect when I get a chance.

[ncitro]

I've replaced most of the outlets in my rig with residential"old work"shallow plastic boxes and outlets. The tech that assembled mine was a little too zealous with the impact gun and within a few months all of the outlets plastic was cracked where the anchors were.

[Guest]

The only outlet we have had issues with is the kitchen GFCI where the coffee maker is plugged in to. It seems they do not handle large input loads over time. Changed brands and will see if this helps.

Jim

[Lonestar]

I've replaced most of the outlets in my rig with residential"old work"shallow plastic boxes and outlets. The tech that assembled mine was a little too zealous with the impact gun and within a few months all of the outlets plastic was cracked where the anchors were.

That's what I may do. Only problem is all the receptacles in my Reflection are under the bottom side of the overhead cabinets. I've got to check and see if the shallow boxes are thin enough to fit in there.

On a side note, I was in Lowes recently to pick up an old work box, and they had almost zero of the blue plastic boxes of any description in stock. Home Depot had a few but this is an item that the supply chain has lost! And also, the price for a single gang old work box was almost $5. Unbelievable!

[ncitro]

That's what I may do. Only problem is all the receptacles in my Reflection are under the bottom side of the overhead cabinets. I've got to check and see if the shallow boxes are thin enough to fit in there.

On a side note, I was in Lowes recently to pick up an old work box, and they had almost zero of the blue plastic boxes of any description in stock. Home Depot had a few but this is an item that the supply chain has lost! And also, the price for a single gang old work box was almost $5. Unbelievable!

Wow that's crazy. Some things are just impossible to get anymore.

[AZMike]

The only outlet we have had issues with is the kitchen GFCI where the coffee maker is plugged in to. It seems they do not handle large input loads over time. Changed brands and will see if this helps.

Jim

Sounds like you have an overly sensitive GFCI. We always run our Keurig on that outlet and never had a problem.

[Guest]

Hi Mike,

I'm on my third one and changed brands this last time. I have replaced these in our past home on an outlet that was commonly used with a hair drier as well. They do well to provide protection from stray current but cannot handle high loads over time. So I would not rely on these devices to power a space heater to protect the rig that is unattended.

From Wirecutter.

Manufacturers advise against plugging space heaters into surge protectors, extension cords, plug timers, GFCI outlets (the kind with the test and reset buttons), or really anything that’s not a wall outlet. Those added layers of electrical connection can increase your chances of overloading the circuit, or they can create additional resistance that allows heat to build up, potentially resulting in a fire or other internal electrical damage.

Jim

[Lonestar]

Wow that's crazy. Some things are just impossible to get anymore.

Tell me about it! What's weird is the metal boxes are cheaper than the plastic boxes now. Wasn't that the opposite a couple of years ago?

In regards to Lowes, I think the contractors are buying them all before they hit the shelves meaning nothing left for the consumer.

[Guest]

Tell me about it! What's weird is the metal boxes are cheaper than the plastic boxes now. Wasn't that the opposite a couple of years ago?

In regards to Lowes, I think the contractors are buying them all before they hit the shelves meaning nothing left for the consumer.

Lonestar,

Couldn't you install a single outlet box and residential style outlet next to the power distribution center and install a breaker for that circuit? This would satisfy moving away from a push connection and away from a GFCI circuit if a ceramic heater is planned.

I'm speculating that those units with an electric fireplace would be wired to a dedicated outlet? No different than a space heater really.

Jim

[AZMike]

Hi Mike,

I'm on my third one and changed brands this last time. I have replaced these in our past home on an outlet that was commonly used with a hair drier as well. They do well to provide protection from stray current but cannot handle high loads over time. So I would not rely on these devices to power a space heater to protect the rig that is unattended.

From Wirecutter.

Manufacturers advise against plugging space heaters into surge protectors, extension cords, plug timers, GFCI outlets (the kind with the test and reset buttons), or really anything that’s not a wall outlet. Those added layers of electrical connection can increase your chances of overloading the circuit, or they can create additional resistance that allows heat to build up, potentially resulting in a fire or other internal electrical damage.

Jim

I hear you, Jim. I have not had a problem possibly because the Keurig draws high current for short periods of time. If and when I have a problem I'll deal with it then, as I am a firm believer in not changing something if there is no problem. If there are obvious known issues with something then I will take preventative measures. In relation to the thread title, I run my 1500W heater from the outlet behind the theater seats, which I believe is not on a GFCI protected circuit and have never had a problem. Also, we make sure to turn off the heater (and furnace!) whenever we leave the trailer. We have forgotten about the water heater on occasion, so I guess we will have to be more diligent.

[Lonestar]

Lonestar,

Couldn't you install a single outlet box and residential style outlet next to the power distribution center and install a breaker for that circuit? This would satisfy moving away from a push connection and away from a GFCI circuit if a ceramic heater is planned.

I'm speculating that those units with an electric fireplace would be wired to a dedicated outlet? No different than a space heater really.

Jim

Yes, it would be very easy except on my floorplan that area has a couch on the wall. There would be a small amount of wall available but it would be a bad place to set a space heater. Even an extension cord would be right in the way of the exterior door entrance. Just wouldn't work unless it was an emergency.