15 AMP fuse keeps blowing

[GDi.o]

hello all and thank you for your time,, I am a newbie at the world and came across an issue on my 2020 GD transcend 32bhs, i have the 15 amp fuse in panel that keep blowing as soon i was replace it. prioe to replacing fuse I turn off breakers and install new. i have bought new battery thinking it might be the issue but it wasn't. All but the celing lights ,water heater and tank gauge readings are working. I looked into the convertor, I disconnected the power cord (with breaker to convertor down) and i got the fuse light (red) to come off. Once I plug in the power cord to convertor gets a little spark and fuse light comes on again, but the breaker to convertor never trips. any information to the issue is greatly appreciated,

fuse light 15 amp F4 in panel (labeled control center)
WFCO panel
WFCO wf-9855 convertor

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Well it seems you have a dead short in the wiring with regards to the ceiling lights or water heater. Seems odd to me that they are on the same fuse.
Everybody troubleshoots differently, but if it were me I would start by isolating either the water heater or the lights. Whichever is first is up to you. I'm guessing by your post that you do not have a meter (I recommend you get one) so after isolating (removing dc power wires from) the light cct, replace the fuse. If it still blows...you water heater cct is the culprit. If it doesn't blow, your heater is fine and the ceiling lights/wiring is your issue. You will then have to pull each light and switch until you isolate where the short is. Could become expensive constantly replacing fuses...really need a meter to troubleshoot electrical issues.

Oh...welcome to the forum!

[howson]

GDi.o

The converter is a source of 12vDC as is the battery. From your description neither of them are the problem. The fuse is opening ("blowing") for the exact reason Scott'n'Wendy wrote: there's a short in the wiring.

If the ceiling light power switch is OFF, the water heater switch is OFF, and none of the tank gauges are selected (no buttons pressed on the Convenience Panel) AND the fuse blows when power is applied...I'd suspect the short is between the Power Distribution Panel (where the fuse is) and the switch wiring on the Convenience Panel. At least that's the first place I'd try to isolate the problem, since with all the previously-mentioned switches OFF there shouldn't be power to the downstream circuits.

As Scott also mentioned, owning (and knowing how to use) a multimeter is a must for an RV DIY'er. Literally dozens of videos on YouTube on how to use a multimeter.

Howard

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Ah yes..I skipped over the convenience panel..also a possibilty.

[JCR GD]

Check the polarity of the battery

[GDi.o]

Thank you, unfortunately still can’t figure out the root cause. I have brand new battery, I changed the inline fuse 30 amp from the battery up front of the RV I have pulled the fuse panel traced the green wire ( split wire from a green and white one) up to the control panel the best I could the green end is connected to the outside light and white end is connected to mix of white wires. I have traced the best I can with out opening the walls or ceiling to see the entire wiring. Wondering if the actual control panel goes bad or even the fuse board.


forgot to add that yes, on the control panel all the switches are in off position and the fuse is still popping

[howson]

GDi.o

Unlikely the control panel or convenience center are bad. (Not impossible, just unlikely.)

The only way I know to troubleshoot a problem like this is with a multimeter. The exact steps are difficult to convey as each discovery may lead to a different next step.

1) What you're calling the "fuse board". With ALL POWER OFF remove the green & white wire on the output side of the board. (In your picture, the output wires are on the right side.) Cap that wire or cover with a piece of electrical tape (just temporarily). Install a new fuse into the board and apply power. There is a very high probability the fuse will NOT blow, thus the problem is NOT in the "fuse board".

2) REMOVE ALL POWER AGAIN. Leave the green/white wire disconnected from the fuse board. With a multimeter, confirm the green/white wire has a direct short to a ground point. (It will--that's why the fuse is blowing.) Find where that green wire goes to the Convenience Panel. At this point what I'd do next is based on what I found--if easily isolated I'd do so. If not easy to isolate ("isolate" means remove it from the circuit by disconnecting it) I'd keep following the wiring with the goal of isolating the related circuit outputs from the Convenience Center Panel. Once the outputs are isolated the same continuity test of the green/white wire (to a known good negative side wire) will reveal if the short is in the panel. (Again, I doubt it.) Checking the isolated output wire(s) to the same return will also show if the short is somewhere "downstream" in the camper.

What I wrote above is easy for me because I've been doing troubleshooting like this for a long time (decades). If paragraph 2 above is "greek" to you, it's time to call for a professional or friend close by that has a multimeter and knows how to use it.

Good luck and please report back what you find.

Howard

[Jlawles2]

GDi.o Things you should know about the panel you are working in. 1st the breakers and fuses are controlling 2 different types of circuits. The breakers are controlling all of the AC components in the camper. As mentioned your issue is going to be a DC component.

While not 100% accurate, the labeling on the panel is somewhat accurate. That is a decent sized line and luckily it has a distinctive color (this may change at any point in the circuit). My guess is the line is pinched or rubbed through (check any location where wiring is in contact with anything). Tracing the line can be a chore. More than likely you will find the issue in the most difficult place to see, use your fingers and feel the wire on all sides for any abnormalities.

Please be careful if working near any of the components when energized even the 12V ones.

[GDi.o]

Thank you all for your time and helping out, the issue was the green wire connect to the fuse boar I did was howson recommended. I disconnected the wire put in new fuse and fuse didn't pop, so it was a hot wire I traced the wire up into the wall very difficult to do with the limited space given. Problem was behind the wall pinched tangled wires I unloosen the best I could reaching behind with one arm. That seemed the fix the issue if issue comes back i now know where to look and may need to brin to shop and get walls taken off to fully expose the wiring. thank you all for the help a lesson learned for me.