Water quit flowing - help needed

[rudy558]

Hi all,

Been in our new 2023 reflection 337rls a few months. We are first time RVers.

Background:
- Our tank heater has been on for several days
- Our under storage has remote thermometers that say it has been at 45 degrees or higher since we got it
- We have not been able to afford skirting yet

The situation:
- Current weather is 9 degrees with significant wind chill
- The water stopped flowing through our pipes a bit ago
- We checked the nautilus and behind it, no water anywhere
- I tried to pull the fresh water empty valve and it is frozen shut (I’m hoping the freezing doesn’t go too deep
- We have kept the cabinet doors in front of the pipes under the sinks open to ensure warm airflow in the rv

Any thoughts as to what could be going on or tips for what to do is greatly appreciated.

I know it sounds like things are frozen, but I don’t understand how that could be with the insulation and the tank heaters.

[Country Campers]

The areas that could be frozen are the fresh tank drain, which you found, the fresh tank overflow, and any low point drains, these are up under the Nautilus panel and are a red a blue hose hanging down from the underbelly. The supply line from the fresh tank to the water pump is located right above the fresh tank drain. You could use a hair dryer to thaw this area out, hopefully. You will need to insulate all of these areas to keep them from freezing. Things like this are what is sometimes used FROST KING, Foam, 1 in Thick, Faucet Cover - 48H485|FC1 - Grainger, also available at most other stores. If you use the hair dryer also use it on the low point drains. Hopefully you are running the furnace and you may want to turn it up a little higher to get more heat in the under belly to help with thawing.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

These trailers are not designed to be able to withstand 9* without freezing up underneath without a little help. The tank heaters are not very big, and do not have the ability to combat 9* weather. You are going to need to come up with some kind of cheap skirting solution. doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. Bales of hay come to mind. I've never used it but I think it would work and be affordable.
Turn the furnace up...watch your propane level, you will go through a lot.

[Cate&Rob]

The floor of your Reflection is insulated. Below that insulation is the space where much of the plumbing runs. This area is not insulated except for a reflective foil membrane on the upper surface of the coroplast black plastic that encloses the bottom of the trailer. As mentioned earlier, there are small ducts from your propane furnace into this area to warm it somewhat, but additional insulation is required in temperatures like what you are experiencing.

Rob

[Reacher]

My suggestion would be to pack up and head south. Unfortunately a travel trailer is not intended to be a shelter from extreme cold or heat. Or you could assemble a foam board skirting like this couple did for their 5th wheel for about $100. https://rvinspiration.com/cold-weath...d-rv-skirting/
Install a couple milk house type electric heaters and it should solve the frozen plumbing issue.

[rudy558]

Thanks so much for all this info!!

New development: our fresh water tank went from 2/3 full to empty overnight.

I know this probably means something major and I’m sick to my stomach.

How can I gain access to where the water tank is to check if there’s water everywhere?

[Cate&Rob]

rudy558

If a substantial amount of water has leaked into the underbelly, the underneath covering (called coroplast) will be sagged down and possibly leaking. But, don't panic yet . . . the tank level indicator lights are notorious for being inaccurate. Condensation on the connections may have changed the reading without there being any change in liquid level.

Rob

[Reacher]

I don't recommend using hay bales or other organic matter because they generate heat when wet and could become a fire hazard.

[rudy558]

Thanks! As we thaw it, is there anything down there that can be damaged? I guess I really want to know, how do we safely thaw it?

We went to Lowe’s and got some foam board insulation and a space heater to run under the RV.

[Country Campers]

Just do not use a flame thrower or similar. A hair dryer or any low heat source should be fine.

Brian

[d2reid]

Basic question: are you using your internal water tank or do you have a water hose hooked up? If water hose, start at the source and confirm water flow to locate the spot of the freeze.

If you use a space heater set it up on some boards. As things melt water will build up under your RV and you want the eletric stuff out of the water.

I don't know the layour of the Reflection, so mayhap our Reflection friends can help with this idea; get a incandescent work light, put a 100 watt bulb in it. Cut a hole in the coroplast, just a slit will work, shove the light into the coroplast. Location is going to the hard part.

To power the space heater and or work light, purchase a 30amp to 25 amp adapter, plug into the 30amp slot on the power pole. Ooops, I assumed you where a 50amp trailer, if you are a 30amp trailer you can get 50amp to other adapters and do the same thing. The idea being is you don't pull electricity from the trailers circuits, you get to use more electricity.

The year I tried foam board I attempted to hold it together with duct tape, first big wind tore it apart. I learned that if you take your hair dryer and heat the duct tape a little the glue sticks better. The space heater I put under the trailer didn't seem to do much. Probably because my foam board box was rather breezy.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Thanks so much for all this info!!

New development: our fresh water tank went from 2/3 full to empty overnight.

If it is still cold there...it's because it is frozen. Sensors can read through the conductivity of water...ice...not so much.

[Jlawles2]

If your fresh water tank sensors stopped working, i would guess the water in the tank is frozen. With frozen water the current passed through the ice to check tank level may have created a bubble of gas around the sensors (stainless steel screw into the side of the tank). The air pocket has created a break in the current flow and the sensor thinks the tank is empty.

As mentioned you can try a couple of 1500w space heaters under the unit (you will need something like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters...ps%2C97&sr=8-3). Cheap $20 ones from walmart and a couple of metal buckets to keep them off the ground. Do not set them too hot thinking higher heat is better because it may get too hot. Remember slow and steady wins the race. You could even cut a couple of small access holes in the coroplast and use 120V computer fans to circulate the air thorough. https://www.amazon.com/DEWENWILS-Wat...zcF9tdGY&psc=1 avoid variable speed ones as they usually control speed by varying voltage (potential for unwanted heat generation).