Replacing the Soft Hose in a Reflection 312BHTS

[Sumitk2]

Sumitk2 (Jordan)-- nice work! Very gratifying that I was able to help.

The last picture in post #11 is one of those "holes" I often reference that allows a lot of hot (or cold) air to enter the trailer through the floor. Not sure if you plan on sealing it up but give it some consideration--you'll be surprised how much of the "outside" comes in through those gaps. You'll find one behind the electric fireplace, too, if you pull the fireplace out to inspect the molex wiring. Cate&Rob has a very handy PDF for the type of fireplace in his and my trailer--might still be applicable to yours.

When you're ready I'll point you to a few more projects that I think your wife will really like (and are easy to accomplish).

Howard

Howard howson , I will most definitely be sealing those up. You are right, there is so much air that comes up, one would think GD would do something like that to ensure the plumbed air stays down there to keep it a little warmer! I am open to more modifications, and will definitely check out the fireplace! Thanks for the information.

Jordan

[Sumitk2]

Just a caution on using the OE hose for connections to the water pump . . . some have reported that pump suction can collapse this hose. Another alternative is to adapt the Pex to 3/4" hose connections and use washing machine hoses which are flexible but have a heavier wall construction. I use two "coils" of pre-fabricated washing machine hose for good vibration isolation. I also use vibration isolation mounts on the feet of the pump.

Rob

Rob,

Cate&Rob That's an awesome set up!

[Jkwilson]

Just a caution on using the OE hose for connections to the water pump . . . some have reported that pump suction can collapse this hose. Another alternative is to adapt the Pex to 3/4" hose connections and use washing machine hoses which are flexible but have a heavier wall construction. I use two "coils" of pre-fabricated washing machine hose for good vibration isolation. I also use vibration isolation mounts on the feet of the pump.

Rob

Good point Rob.

Also noticed I used MPT for both adapters when one should obviously be FPT. Poor editing when I went back to change them to male and female to avoid confusion and didn’t check carefully enough.

[TucsonJim]

Sumitk2


I'm just a few days from starting my rebuild. I'm so glad you're posting your photos so I can follow along. Once suggestion I have is that you replace that plastic check valve in your water heater with a Brass version. There have been quite a few cases of that plastic on coming apart and components going into the water heater tank.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jim

[bogen2]

Just a caution on using the OE hose for connections to the water pump . . . some have reported that pump suction can collapse this hose. Another alternative is to adapt the Pex to 3/4" hose connections and use washing machine hoses which are flexible but have a heavier wall construction. I use two "coils" of pre-fabricated washing machine hose for good vibration isolation. I also use vibration isolation mounts on the feet of the pump.

I wonder if short metal braided water hoses could be adapted to connect pex to the pump. Might be enough to reduce some vibration without the extra length of the washing machine hose.

Bob

[Country Campers]

I wonder if short metal braided water hoses could be adapted to connect pex to the pump. Might be enough to reduce some vibration without the extra length of the washing machine hose.

Bob

This would be a good idea but I think the ID of those hoses is only 1/4" or so. This would cause a big restriction for flow and pressure.

Brian

[TucsonJim]

Regarding isolating the pump with rubber or soft hose. Has anyone just attached PEX, and was bad enough that you regretted it?

Jim

[Sumitk2]

Regarding isolating the pump with rubber or soft hose. Has anyone just attached PEX, and was bad enough that you regretted it?

Jim

TucsonJim Jim, I did as my initial quick fix and intro to pex, but even with the stock rubber mounts on the water pump, the Nautilus panel vibrates a good bit. I currently have two adapters and fabricated a Pex soft hose combined effort, but as Rob states above, the soft hose might collapse. I will upgrade to laundry hoses...lol

[Sumitk2]

Sumitk2


I'm just a few days from starting my rebuild. I'm so glad you're posting your photos so I can follow along. Once suggestion I have is that you replace that plastic check valve in your water heater with a Brass version. There have been quite a few cases of that plastic on coming apart and components going into the water heater tank.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jim

TucsonJim Jim, are there any negative effects using the brass one way check valve i.e. corrosion? I know howson used brass. Any updates on that Howard?

Thanks for the recommendation, I would rather use brass. Ironically, when I pressurized the system, somehow I developed a small leak at the pressure relief valve to the tank. I cleaned it really well, and used tape in lieu of paste, and solved the issue.

[TucsonJim]

TucsonJim Jim, are there any negative effects using the brass one way check valve i.e. corrosion? I know howson used brass. Any updates on that Howard?

Thanks for the recommendation, I would rather use brass. Ironically, when I pressurized the system, somehow I developed a small leak at the pressure relief valve to the tank. I cleaned it really well, and used tape in lieu of paste, and solved the issue.

I've never heard of any issue with corrosion on the valve. But I've seen a lot of those plastic valves fail.

A leak at the pressure relief valve is almost always caused by losing the air space at the top of the water heater when refilling it. Once the airspace is lost, it will weep from time to time. Here's how to reestablish the airspace.

[Sumitk2]

I've never heard of any issue with corrosion on the valve. But I've seen a lot of those plastic valves fail.

A leak at the pressure relief valve is almost always caused by losing the air space at the top of the water heater when refilling it. Once the airspace is lost, it will weep from time to time. Here's how to reestablish the airspace.

TucsonJim Jim, sorry, I meant to say one way check valve, but I have yet to see the diagram you've published. Its great! Thank you.

I will go ahead and order a brass one way check valve!

Jordan

[Country Campers]

Sumitk2

Jordan

Looking through your pics it is hard to tell if you used the original PEX fittings or did you replace with new?

If you replaced was there a reason?

Brian

[Sumitk2]

Country Campers Hi Brian,

I used new Pex fittings in 99% of the project. Mainly sharkbite from Lowe’s. I went with plastic (black) to save some weight for the solar install. If you see an ivory fitting that was stock.

I used new just to be safe. Probably could have saved some money if I reused stock, but I figured new is better, and I am firm believer in Murphy’s Law...he will bite me when I least need it!!

Jordan

[Sumitk2]

Sumitk2 (Jordan)-- nice work! Very gratifying that I was able to help.

The last picture in post #11 is one of those "holes" I often reference that allows a lot of hot (or cold) air to enter the trailer through the floor. Not sure if you plan on sealing it up but give it some consideration--you'll be surprised how much of the "outside" comes in through those gaps. You'll find one behind the electric fireplace, too, if you pull the fireplace out to inspect the molex wiring. Cate&Rob has a very handy PDF for the type of fireplace in his and my trailer--might still be applicable to yours.

When you're ready I'll point you to a few more projects that I think your wife will really like (and are easy to accomplish).

Howard

howson

Howard,

I took your advice and pulled out the Fireplace this morning. It seems GD or the Dealership who did the Molex Recall filled in the gap! I was shocked!

Onto the other gaps!

Jordan

[Cate&Rob]

Luckily there was no damage, and I had already bought a dehumidifier for the winter camping season, so I just let it run in the front storage area to ensure no excess moisture. My first order of business was to fix my water pump line where there was a leak behind the Nautilus Panel. Luckily I had a 1/2 inch FIP x 1/2 Inch FIP sink hose to bridge the gap until I could get something permanent.

I tried to fix the leak with a hose clamp, but it made it worse. Could have been 100% operator error...I am no plumber....not even close.



With that completed, I was able to use all my water as normal, but would use the pump in case a larger leak ensued. It would cycle every once and a while at the other leak locations, but I kept the inside areas dry, and only turned the pump on when needed. Luckily in my case, the leak points were very small, but they were all at the soft hose to pex junctions.

Once I got my supplies from Lowes, built my plan, and received my crimping tool from Amazon, I was set. I overbought just in case....but still needed more. I started in the kitchen by replacing the fittings where it was leaking, and used a 1/2 x 1/2 PB Polybutylene Adapter from Sharkbite (Lowes ~ $3 ea.).









Of note: The adapter kit comes with PEX crimps, but I was using clamps...it was difficult getting the adapter into the hose with a clamp in place. I later purchase a crimp tool, and found it much easier to do it the way it was intended with crimp rings vs. clamp. My crimp tool was larger, and I was glad to have the clamp tool for the tighter spots as I was able to use one hand for most of the tight spots.

Another way to transition from soft hose to Pex pipe to eliminate the soft hose to Pex fitting drip leak.
The 1/2" polybutylene side is a tight fit to the 1/2" soft hose used by Grand Design, but will fit.
This idea comes from Colancolan

Rob