Plumbing Rebuild and Kantleak Replacement

[CloseToRetirement]

This past week I worked on replacing my Anderson KantLeak valve with a new Anderson RValve (all brass). While doing the valve replacement I decided to remove all the "flex" hose from the plumbing system. The attachment outlines all the work done with photos. We are out this weekend testing the new configuration.

In the end, the ounce of prevention should allow for fewer plumbing related issues. Over the past 12 months, I had a hot water flex line burst and some fitting failures. I have a valve on the water inlet that permits me to turn off city water behind the locked door and dump any water pressure before leaving camp. My original plan was to replace every line of pipe in the coach and utilize a manifold system. Maybe when I retire, I will have the time for a more elaborate plan. For now the rebuild should instill more confidence in the plumbing configuration.

Plumbing Rebuild v2.pdf

[howson]

This past week I worked on replacing my Anderson KantLeak valve with a new Anderson RValve (all brass). While doing the valve replacement I decided to remove all the "flex" hose from the plumbing system. The attachment outlines all the work done with photos. We are out this weekend testing the new configuration.

In the end, the ounce of prevention should allow for fewer plumbing related issues. Over the past 12 months, I had a hot water flex line burst and some fitting failures. I have a valve on the water inlet that permits me to turn off city water behind the locked door and dump any water pressure before leaving camp. My original plan was to replace every line of pipe in the coach and utilize a manifold system. Maybe when I retire, I will have the time for a more elaborate plan. For now the rebuild should instill more confidence in the plumbing configuration.

[ATTACH]n4193[/ATTACH]

Wow. Incredible post and documentation. One of your follow-ups is a very interesting idea, re: Future plan to use the pump exclusively to run water into the coach faucets while connected to city water utilizing a water level gauge in/on the fresh water tank that enables a solenoid to open the city water connection to re-fill the fresh water tank on-demand.

[TucsonJim]

Superb write up. You have given me several good ideas for replumbing mine before heading to Alaska next summer.

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Lyle,

Great write-up ! We obviously approach this kind of project from a similar perspective . I will post my "version1" rebuild notes to augment your "version 2".
Edit: Version 1 posted at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...lection-303rls

I am very interested in the Aquajet ARV pump that you chose. My original pump and accumulator tank work as intended, but the ARV sounds like it might be a better solution.

I am interested in your reference to the required location for the black tank flush vacuum break. I was told that RVIA referenced ASSE 1001-02 where section 1.2 states that the vacuum break must be "at least 6 inches above the flood level rim of the receptacle served". (This is a 1966 document last updated in 1988 https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/....1001.1990.pdf)
This would be the toilet bowl rim. I attempted to find a way to talk to someone at RIVA about this since it seems to apply to standard residential toilets which do not have a closing flush ball valve . . . but was unsuccessful in getting any response from RVIA.

Rob

[CloseToRetirement]

I am very interested in the Aquajet ARV pump that you chose. My original pump and accumulator tank work as intended, but the ARV sounds like it might be a better solution.

I am interested in your reference to the required location for the black tank flush vacuum break. I was told that RVIA referenced ASSE 1001-02 where section 1.2 states that the vacuum break must be "at least 6 inches above the flood level rim of the receptacle served". (This is a 1966 document last updated in 1988 https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/....1001.1990.pdf)
This would be the toilet bowl rim. I attempted to find a way to talk to someone at RIVA about this since it seems to apply to standard residential toilets which do not have a closing flush ball valve . . . but was unsuccessful in getting any response from RVIA.

Rob

Having used the Aquajet now for the past 12 hours (dishes, showers, other bathroom activities) with the relocation, it's barely noticeable. The pump is designed with a pressure range (could not put my hands on that information, might have been a conversation with Remco) so it doesn't kick on when a source is opened. It will let pressure fall to the lower end of their designed range before starting. My pump is located directly below the bathroom and I would expect it to be more audible but that has not been the case. If something were to happen in the middle of the night on an old fitting or pipe, I might not hear it. Now I turn the pump off before going to bed. I can still get two toilet flushes from the line pressure during the night.

The RVIA reference is correct "....flood level rim of the receptacle served." I spoke with Watts, manufacturer of the anti-siphoning vacuum breaker, who indicated the flush sprayer in the tank is the receptacle served and the flood rim is directly above the spray port.

[Cate&Rob]

The RVIA reference is correct "....flood level rim of the receptacle served." I spoke with Watts, manufacturer of the anti-siphoning vacuum breaker, who indicated the flush sprayer in the tank is the receptacle served and the flood rim is directly above the spray port.

Hi Lyle,

I like this interpretation a lot better ! Putting the vacuum break in the "plumbing basement" where it is accessible, would be a lot easier for both Grand Design during manufacturing and the owner for inspection/servicing.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

I spoke with Watts, manufacturer of the anti-siphoning vacuum breaker, who indicated the flush sprayer in the tank is the receptacle served and the flood rim is directly above the spray port.

I posed this alternative interpretation to Grand Design and Jeff Christner (Compliance Manager) got back to me. According to B & B Mold who is their supplier of the black tank flush system, the correct interpretation is the earlier referenced "minimum 6” above the flood level of the lowest fixture draining into the black tank" . . . which would be the bowl rim of the toilet.

Just FYI . . .
Rob

[CloseToRetirement]

I posed this alternative interpretation to Grand Design and Jeff Christner (Compliance Manager) got back to me. According to B & B Mold who is their supplier of the black tank flush system, the correct interpretation is the earlier referenced "minimum 6” above the flood level of the lowest fixture draining into the black tank" . . . which would be the bowl rim of the toilet.

Just FYI . . .
Rob

Hi Rob,

To help message this further, I went to a plumbing engineer who referenced the Uniform Plumbing Code manual.

[Uniform Plumbing Code, Section 603.4 (2018)] Upright position, no valve downstream. Minimum of 6 inches or listed distance above all downstream piping and flood level of receptor.

He stated the water is discharged at the spray port (receptor) on the tank and consequently at the lower valve to drain the tank. He stated if the interpretation is the flood rim of the toilet that would be incorrect because the toilet has a seal and the top of the vent pipe would be the highest flood rim. The physics of the atmospheric vacuum breaker is to ensure any water backing up the valve outlet port closes the valve to stop the backflow on the non-pressurized source (city water) because the tank vent prevents any back pressure. So if the spray port fails thus creating back pressure, the valve closes preventing any back siphoning of waste water. If the city water source continues to run, the water would eventually go up the vent pipe onto the roof and no back pressure would be present due to the incoming water.

He also noted the UPC references ASSE (American Society of Sanitation Engineers) 1001 which indicates the standard for the atmospheric type vacuum breakers.

I believe, B & B Mold makes the spray port not the atmospheric type vacuum breaker. Watts is one of the manufacturers of the atmospheric type vacuum breakers (LF288A) and there documentation also shows the spray port as the receptor. I looked at another manufacturer, Water Saver, and their installation diagram is similar to Watts.

I hope this helps GDRV understand the standard better and would consider repositioning of the vacuum breaker to the storage area.

Lyle