I pulled the Transcend 265BH from Ohio to Texas as I have a work assignment here for a month. I kept the unit winterized as I had 5" of snow and woke up to 19 degree temps in Bowling Green, KY the first night. Traveled to Little Rock, AR where warmer temperatures allowed me to de-winterize the unit. Moved valves as specified in the owner manual (bypass= off, hot from water heater = in line/on and cold water feed to water heater = in line/on ) including moving the valve for the winterization line (siphon) to closed which opened the line from the fresh water tank. As with most 3 way valves, the handle is in line with the water flow. I initially filled the water tank 1/2 way (used a water meter on the fill hose) and then added the bleach solution, then filled the rest of the way by hand at the open fill port for fresh water. I did this to ensure that the tank was full and so as not to over pressure it. I had a Gulfstream 21QBS before this and never encountered any of these issues. I winterized that unit myself.
I also found the electrical cover off of the pump. The other strange thing is that it appears that antifreeze has found its way into the inlet hose coming from the fresh water tank. I found a similar post and the suggestion was to pressure the water system using the city water connection and that may prime the pump. I have been on city water, so I turned the pump switch on, nothing happened, so the pressure switch which activates the pump must be working. I opened a faucet and relieved the pressure in the lines (but did not run empty). then turned the valve to fresh water fill and added 10 gal of water to the fresh water tank.. Then I turned on the pump. It starting running immediately and did not stop, in otherwords did not develop enough pressure even with the full lines to shut off the pump, which it should have. I then turned on the kitchen faucet and the flow gradually decreased until it stopped and then air.
If anyone has any thoughts?... I have come to the conclusion that the pump is either wired backward ( and the impellor is running backward) or the inlet and outlets of the pump were switched. Is there a check valve between the fresh water tank and pump inlet? I have emailed this description to Grand Design Customer Service 3 days ago but have not heard back yet. Below is a picture of the cover off of the pump electrical box and the arrow is pointing to the antifreeze in the water feed from the fresh water tank.
Tim
I also found the electrical cover off of the pump. The other strange thing is that it appears that antifreeze has found its way into the inlet hose coming from the fresh water tank. I found a similar post and the suggestion was to pressure the water system using the city water connection and that may prime the pump. I have been on city water, so I turned the pump switch on, nothing happened, so the pressure switch which activates the pump must be working. I opened a faucet and relieved the pressure in the lines (but did not run empty). then turned the valve to fresh water fill and added 10 gal of water to the fresh water tank.. Then I turned on the pump. It starting running immediately and did not stop, in otherwords did not develop enough pressure even with the full lines to shut off the pump, which it should have. I then turned on the kitchen faucet and the flow gradually decreased until it stopped and then air.
If anyone has any thoughts?... I have come to the conclusion that the pump is either wired backward ( and the impellor is running backward) or the inlet and outlets of the pump were switched. Is there a check valve between the fresh water tank and pump inlet? I have emailed this description to Grand Design Customer Service 3 days ago but have not heard back yet. Below is a picture of the cover off of the pump electrical box and the arrow is pointing to the antifreeze in the water feed from the fresh water tank.
Tim
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