Schwintek Slide Straining

[Lonestar]

The can he is holding is the liquid (3045). The dry (3044) states that on the label.

On the LCI video on lubrication they use the same liquid.

Well, if I had watched the video completely I would have seen that. My bad!

Lubricating the internals sure seems reasonable, but I'm really wondering about using that lubricant on the outside track and the channel right above it as he suggested. Seems like leaving an oily surface would sure attract dust/dirt. Appears a dry lubricant i.e. silicone would be better, but may not work as well. Other solution with the CRC would be period inspection, cleaning, and re-lubrication.

That guy does a great video!

[Guest]

Lonestar

I believe the CRC with PTFE would be the better option and should not attract dirt. One reason to use the PTFE option is the steel bushing that rides in an anodized aluminum housing.
The video was very informative as well as entertaining when he was throwing parts all over the place.

Jim

[Lonestar]

Using CRC with PTFE I lubed my slide for the first time today. The slide was starting to squeak on retract, and seemed to be slowing down a little. The trailer is 14 months old. I watched the video in post #53 several times. I found it extremely difficult to get the spray tube past the wiper and aim it at the coupler and the gibs. It's just impossible on my trailer to see them. It was all by feel.

After research on other forums, there are a lot of opinions as to if the rails should be lubed. In the future I'm going to try to just use silicone to prevent dirt from accumulating on the rail. This time I sprayed a little of the CRC in the V groove of the rail (top and bottom) where the wheel rides. The concern may be with both bringing dirt into the motor/gear assembly, as well as the petroleum lube's affect on the plastic wheel. I don't know.

Anyway, what I did today worked. The slide extends and retracts great with no noise of any kind. Very smooth.

Next time I lube I'm going to find a better way to bend the little red spray tube that comes with the CRC. Maybe use a slightly larger piece of clear tubing that will bend into the motor area and stick the red tube in that.

[howson]

Next time I lube I'm going to find a better way to bend the little red spray tube that comes with the CRC. Maybe use a slightly larger piece of clear tubing that will bend into the motor area and stick the red tube in that.

Slick solution (no pun intended) from the Sweet Project Cars Youtube channel.

[howson]

All,
I completed training sponsored by Lippert this week on the Schwintek system. I also traded emails with the folks at the LCI Training Institute on a number of topics, one of them specifically asking about lubricating the Schwintek slide. As a result of the training and my conversation with them I can state definitively that LCI's stance on the Schwintek system is no lubrication.

Pic below was snipped from the most recent owner's manual dated 9 Oct 20:



The full Owner's Manual is attached below.

Here is exactly what Lippert wrote in their email to me:

For maintenance, please see page 11 of the attached manual. Lippert does not recommend any lubrication on the standard Schwintek system. In the past, CRC w/PTFE was recommended on motorized units only. The reason for this is the old motorized systems used metal gibs compared to composite gibs that are offered now. As the unit would travel down the road, there would be a rattling noise. To help alleviate this rattling, we recommend spraying the CRC w/PTFE onto the gibs and where they lie in the bearing blocks. Lippert does not recommend lubricant to be applied to the system as a whole. After reading through the forum, it looks like you are already aware of why. Glad to see that. As for the manual referenced in the forum...which states to apply lubricant. It does not appear to have been written by us as it does not have a REV date or CCD.

Lippert goes on to state they do not agree with the conclusions of the YouTube video in post #53 of this thread. It does not represent Lippert nor do they agree with everything stated in the video.

I don't expect everyone here to agree, and that's OK. My purpose in writing this post is to ensure new (and current) owners have the OEM's input on the lubrication topic so owners can make their own decision on how to maintain their Grand Design units.

Howard

[Guest]

When replacing a failed motor and seeing the beginnings of corrosion of the steel motor bushing (coupler) that rides in the aluminum bearing housing, I struggle with their suggestions of not lubing this area of the slide. A better design would have incorporated a true lube free poly bushing. The gibs on my slides are metal and the video I picked up was from the Lippert site.

All in all this is a good system but GDRV should incorporate a design of the outside aluminum trim panel that is removable with the slide in the closed position so motor replacement could be done from outside the rig. Or a removable trim ring inside the rig with a motor retaining screw inside the rig. Wire routing of this system is also a weak point. With the current design, my confidence is re-enforced by my spare motor, wiring harness and two slide locks that are kept in my rig.

Purchased the extended spray can straws after seeing this posted long ago and they work great for a variety of tasks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXw9I_DoAvI

Jim

[Guest]

To add some feedback on system monitoring for potential issues.....using the Victron BMV-712 and with full power available from the battery and/or the converter, the startup current and running current can be monitored when using the schwintek system. This initial observation will provide a heads up if the system is struggling at some time in the future. Also keep in mind if a motor is failing and lagging behind, the good motor will typically start first and then will slow down from being commanded by the controller to maintain sync. Another sign there could be an issue on the horizon. In this case, running current will still be higher.

Jim

[howson]

...using the Victron BMV-712 and with full power available from the battery and/or the converter, the startup current and running current can be monitored when using the schwintek system.

Exactly what I've been thinking of doing! This type of monitoring would inform when to service the electric stabilizers, too. Ambient temperature and the amount of "stuff" stored under the bed or in the overhead cubbies may have some effect, so documenting these variables may help, too.

Another new thing I learned is that there are rollers (or possibly a slide plate) underneath the slide room that is designed to carry the room's weight, not the Schwintek's shoe or V-Roller. I haven't looked at my room yet so I'm not sure if the rollers are even accessible, but we haven't discussed these at all in context of a straining room. According to Lippert there should be one roller on either end, no more than 6" from the edge, then spaced 24" to 36". Exact number of rollers will depend on the width of the slide room (obviously).

[Cate&Rob]

howson Guest

We need to remember that information from component suppliers (or even from Grand Design) will almost always be in reference to most recent production. They seem to forget that there are many of their earlier products still in use. Comparing the posts by Howard (recently from LCI directly) and from Jim . . .

1) "Lippert does not recommend any lubrication on the standard Schwintek system . . . composite gibs that are offered now."

2) "The gibs on my slides are metal"

Rob

[howson]

howson Guest

We need to remember that information from component suppliers (or even from Grand Design) will almost always be in reference to most recent production. They seem to forget that there are many of their earlier products still in use. Comparing the posts by Howard (recently from LCI directly) and from Jim . . .

1) "Lippert does not recommend any lubrication on the standard Schwintek system . . . composite gibs that are offered now."

2) "The gibs on my slides are metal"

Very true. There are many different variants of the Schwintek system. How old the system is, the application (motorized, aka "Class A"; or a trailer) and there's even an OEM-specific Schwintek. Winnebago motorized units have unique Schwintek applications.

Below is one example of the difference showing the different gibs. None of us (non-motorized) GD owners will have a Schwintek with a composite gib. The standard gibs are aluminum on current production models.



There's differences in the racks, shoes, motors...lots of variables.

So how does an owner figure out what they have in their trailer? On the inside of the H-column below the motor notch there's a Variant Code Sticker. Copy down that RPO number and contact Lippert if/when a replacement part is required and they'll be able to tell you exactly what variant of Schwintek is in your trailer and what part(s) to order.

[Canyonlight]

Another new thing I learned is that there are rollers (or possibly a slide plate) underneath the slide room that is designed to carry the room's weight, not the Schwintek's shoe or V-Roller. I haven't looked at my room yet so I'm not sure if the rollers are even accessible, but we haven't discussed these at all in context of a straining room. According to Lippert there should be one roller on either end, no more than 6" from the edge, then spaced 24" to 36". Exact number of rollers will depend on the width of the slide room (obviously).

Howard - thanks, for bringing this up. My (possibly all 303s) BR Schwintek slide does have 3 rollers. I could see where they slide was making contact (a good thing) due to the roller impressions left on the bottom of the slide. The contact was very similar looking as the marks made from the 5 or 6 rollers on our in frame kitchen slide.

After GDRV replaced our walls, after a number of camping trips,I thought to check the under area of the BR slide to see what roller impressions were being left. I did not see any....hmm ? I could easily see the roller mounting locations as before wall replacement but upon inspection the rollers were not and are not making contact with the bottom of the slide. There is about 1/16" - 1/8" gap with all rollers.

I have been mildly concerned about this since the slide seems to be working well. However, your post makes me thing that this s/b looked at. Or maybe not a big deal. Your thoughts ?

Do you know if this slide or rollers can be adjusted to make contact and if so do you know what is involved to do so ? As the rollers are "imbedded" mounted on top of the RV 2" wall, I do not know how to access w/o removing/hyper extending the slide. This may be above my pay grade !

Thanks, Howard !

Dan

[Guest]

howson, Cate&Rob, Canyonlight

This is all great information where the steel couplers riding in an aluminum bearing block is somewhat of a concern. Wondering about electrolysis if stored for long duration's such as a year or two. Does not apply to us but wondering.

For loading the slide room, would you know what the recommended storage capacity would be on a large slide as found in the 2600RB? At one time we were storing drinks and other heavier items to offset the kitchen side but later moved away from this strategy due to the rollers and not wanting to stress them. We still use the under bench areas for storage but for light weight items.

Jim

[howson]

I have been mildly concerned about this since the slide seems to be working well. However, your post makes me thing that this s/b looked at. Or maybe not a big deal. Your thoughts ?

Dan,
I won't pretend that after 1 training session I'm now an expert on all-things Schwintek...but I do know more than I did last week (but I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express). If there wasn't this dang pandemic all of the moderators would have attended in-class Lippert Training Academy sessions by now so we'd know the right answers. But I digress.

The point is that I'm more informed than I was previously, but please verify anything I write here by consulting with a dealer, a qualified RV technician, Lippert Customer Service, or Grand Design Customer Service. (If you call Lippert have your RPO number handy!)

So with that caveat out of the way, here's my .02.

The shoe and the V-Roller are not designed to carry the weight of the room. The job of the shoe and V-Roller is to guide as the motor drives via the spur gears.


It should be possible, with the room partially extended, to use your fingers to turn the V-Roller with some pressure (the Lippert trainer's words). If the V-Roller is locked down tight and not moving at all, the room's weight may not be carried by the lower rollers as they are supposed to do. (The Lippert trainer called this a key indicator of an issue if the V-Roller is impossible to turn.)

Since all of us have different finger strength this test is subjective at best, but I think you get the idea.

Let me emphasize again that I'm not an expert (yet!) and if something seems wrong with the room please consult with one of the expert references listed earlier.

Howard

[howson]

For loading the slide room, would you know what the recommended storage capacity would be on a large slide as found in the 2600RB? At one time we were storing drinks and other heavier items to offset the kitchen side but later moved away from this strategy due to the rollers and not wanting to stress them.

No, nothing was stated regarding maximum weight carrying capacity nor have I ever seen any reference. There are two motors: a 300:1 and a 500:1. The 500:1 has a higher torque so I assume it's for a heavier room. If the controller is marked with 8 AMP then the motor is a 500:1. If it's not marked with 8 AMP then the motor is some variant of the 300:1 (there's been at least three different styles since the original).




Your idea of measuring the amperage required by the room to extend and retract I think is an excellent place to understand if the items loaded in a room are having an effect on the functioning of the room.

[howson]

All in all this is a good system but GDRV should incorporate a design of the outside aluminum trim panel that is removable with the slide in the closed position so motor replacement could be done from outside the rig.

This is exactly what Winnebago incorporated into their motorized units with their custom Schwintek from Lippert! I also do not understand why this design isn't the standard for all installations. Having to remove the motor from the inside is very difficult in a lot of trailers due to where the room is located. (Walls get in the way, etc.)