Schwintek In Wall Slide Motor Replacement Momentum 376

[d2reid]

Yep, another broken wire on a Schwintek Slide motor. This makes my third one. Part number 236575. At around $150 per motor I may have to learn how to solder.

In the 376 the slides are real close to the cabinets, only about 6" clearance. This made getting the motor out difficult. On the second motor replacement the tech chose to remove the slide trim that was next to motor to get enough clearance to pull it out. I saw there was a little flex in the slide railing system, so I muscled it out. This one was on the passenger side near the cap.

Couple of lessons learned. First off, when the slide starts to drag a little or not stay synched while sliding the problem is peeking it's head out, slide motor failure is eminent. It is possible to move the slide with motor failure, the good motor will still go if you put it in manual mode (search u tube, lots of videos out there) and have the big guy push on the slide while someone operates the slide controller, go slow.

I took time to alight the motor shaft on the new motor to look the same as the old motor, this paid dividends when it was time to drop the motor back into the slot.

What I didn't plan for was putting the seals back on, I had to make another trip into town to get some gasket sealer. I probably used the wrong product and will have to redo this soon.

I had planned on 4-8 hours to this, it took me 2, 1 hour was spent going into town.

If anyone knows the proper product to put on the seals to make them stick to the railing please speak up.

[Guest]

d2reid "First off, when the slide starts to drag a little or not stay synched while sliding the problem is peeking it's head out, slide motor failure is eminent"

Completely agree Dallas as this is a sign of a failure to come. I keep a spare motor and harness in my rig, as well as slide locks that I use for my sliding doors while traveling. For now.

Jim

[TucsonJim]

So I'm really curious. What is causing the wires to break? Does the motor move during operation? It reminds me of testing gyroscopes early in my missile career. We had to rotate the gyros during test, and the wires between the gyro and the test equipment would break frequently. Quite often, the failure would occur 2-3 hours into a test and we'd have to start all over once we repaired the wires. I finally had enough and epoxied the wires to prevent movement. Instead of failing once every 2-3 days, they wires would fail once every 2-3 months. I wonder if the same thing could be done here?

Jim

[d2reid]

[QUOTE=TucsonJim;n30332 I finally had enough and epoxied the wires to prevent movement..... I wonder if the same thing could be done here?

Jim[/QUOTE]

I don't know why that wire broke on two of my motors. They should be laid in static without movement nor rubbbing parts. To say the connection is structurally weak is an understatement. I like your idea of a drop or two of epoxy, anything to strengthen these thin little wire.

[Guest]

Some are also using silicone to help support the wire connection. The picture shows a second generation motor with a pigtail wiring harness, so maybe a Gen3 is needed.

Jim

[d2reid]

The picture shows a second generation motor ...

Jim

I don't know the motor history, but the newer ones are coming with a rubber sleeve around them, the only problem with that is there is not enough room in the slot for the sleeved motor to go into, so the tech had to cut the sleeve off. It was a good plan, it just didn't work.

[howson]

I don't know the motor history, but the newer ones are coming with a rubber sleeve around them, the only problem with that is there is not enough room in the slot for the sleeved motor to go into, so the tech had to cut the sleeve off. It was a good plan, it just didn't work.

LCI has extensive documentation at support.lci1.com. Looks like there's been three versions of the motor. Why they've changed isn't listed, but obviously there were issues they were trying to correct with each version.

https://support.lci1.com/documents/t...identification

[Guest]

I don't know the motor history, but the newer ones are coming with a rubber sleeve around them, the only problem with that is there is not enough room in the slot for the sleeved motor to go into, so the tech had to cut the sleeve off. It was a good plan, it just didn't work.

Dallas,

I ran into the same issue. Thought the shrink wrap was a great idea just before having to cut it off.

Howard, I believe the only difference between the original and current model is the design of the wire connection and maybe a motor upgrade? My unit failed once from a broken wire and was repaired under warranty and the second time it appeared to have issues with the built in gear reduction unit. I was surprised I was able to bump the slide out to access the retaining screw since the motor would not rotate under power at all.

Jim

[mpking]

Just throwing this out there Guest .

You know there was a recall on your year. (You have to check the VIN. My 2017 Imagine was built after the change in the line was made, and is apparently not affected)

https://www.granddesignrv.com/sites/...Site%20pdf.pdf

It's somewhat related to the motors (least I thought it was, but now I read the letter, it's about how they were attached.)

In another thread someone mentioned a new recall, and I ended up going thru the entire recall database looking to see if anything applies. (Some of them are hilarious!. Quote "Recalled units consist of when a specific employee was hired, until his work was noticed and retrained") I think that was the AC wiring recall..

Anyways, that's why I brought the recall up.

[Guest]

mpking Thank you for thinking of me. I remember this issue where the screws were breaking off on the slide attachment panels on the outside of some rigs. My Imagine did not fall into this recall. Plus GDRV installed an entire new left wall on the rig this past April so they should have installed the proper screws.
Now just need to remove the sagging gutter on that side and install it correctly. Dagnabbit!

Jim

[mpking]

mpking Thank you for thinking of me. I remember this issue where the screws were breaking off on the slide attachment panels on the outside of some rigs. My Imagine did not fall into this recall. Plus GDRV installed an entire new left wall on the rig this past April so they should have installed the proper screws.
Now just need to remove the sagging gutter on that side and install it correctly. Dagnabbit!

Jim

Why a whole new wall?

[Guest]

Why a whole new wall?

I had some small delamination at the front left side and had already had a repair above the slide done under warranty. GDRV was quick to look it over at the 2019 Rally where they offered to replace the wall. So I'm very grateful and at the same time a bit frustrated by the huge belly in the gutter right above the slide out. So I believe I will need to fill the old holes and re-install it so it drains off each end rather than in the middle. Most likely will not happen until spring. I'm still working and still very busy even during times like these.

Jim

[d2reid]

[QUOTE=MidwestCamper;n30460][USER="3952" Dagnabbit!

Jim [/QUOTE]

That's my feeling tonight, Washington to Texas via Colorado, what could go wrong... slide motor for one, then found a separation bulge on a tire today, that'll cost me a day or two, and just because when it rains it pours the 6 point hydraulic system is doing strange things today, I'll start another thread on that one, plus I got a lot of research to do...

Hmmmm, I wonder if the 500:1 ratio motors would be more robust than the 300:1 ratio motors. Slower for sure, but maybe stronger?

[howson]

That's my feeling tonight, Washington to Texas via Colorado, what could go wrong... slide motor for one, then found a separation bulge on a tire today, that'll cost me a day or two, and just because when it rains it pours the 6 point hydraulic system is doing strange things today, I'll start another thread on that one, plus I got a lot of research to do...

Hmmmm, I wonder if the 500:1 ratio motors would be more robust than the 300:1 ratio motors. Slower for sure, but maybe stronger?

I was thinking just the opposite--could the motor be completely eliminated? There'd need to be a way to lock the slide in place when out (and in) but without the motor's braking action how hard could it be to push it manually? No more problems with motors...

Not a serious proposal, just thinking out loud...

[d2reid]

--could the motor be completely eliminated? There'd need to be a way to lock the slide in place when out (and in) but without the motor's braking action how hard could it be to push it manually?

Not a serious proposal, just thinking out loud...

What box? I always like thinking outside of the box, as the saying goes. Out would not be too bad, you are level with the slides, in is were it gets to be a bit... my Schwintek slides are about forehead height, how do I know this, just ask my forehead. That means essentially you are pushing against something above your shoulder, can't get too much push behind that. And then how to keep the slide even when you push, I push harder than DW, she's a wimpy pusher.

As far as locking them in place, good old 2x4 technology. KISS rules apply.