How to identify which Schwintek slide motor and harness I have?

[Yoda]

I did a lot of searching here. I am wanting to get a spare motor and wire harness for my Schwintek slide. However in looking at a lot of threads it appears I may need to pull the motor, or is there an easy way. Are all the motors the same? I read in one post to look for the Lippert label on the inside frame. However in my Reflection 220RK getting to the frame is a problem with the slide in as access is blocked on bot sides. I could probably get to the frame if I partially extend, but worried about messing up the timing.

I am also slightly confused on how to get to the motor itself as some YouTube shows getting to them from the inside and others show the outside access and the retaining screws. I know much of this has been covered here before, so sorry for the duplication.

Whats puzzling in using the GD parts look up the picture of the motor they have does not even closely match most I have seen as it has an offset gear box.
Next on my agenda is the Lippert site to see what they have that might help solve this.

Thanks for any help on this.
Keith

On edit I did just find this https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002058.pdf
Hopeful it is what I have.
Also found this https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002716.pdf
So is the motor part number I need 236575?

Main manual https://support.lci1.com/in-wall-slide-out

Second edit - found this https://www.amazon.com/236575-Wall-S...752063276&th=1
Video is from etrailer.

[howson]

Yoda -- getting the RPO number off of the sticker is the best way...but you've already identified that's not possible.

Maybe Customer Service can identify the exact model based on your VIN?

The model of controller in your trailer may narrow the choices, too. Take a pic of it and post it.

[Guest]

I looked in the GDRV parts page then crossed referenced that number with Lippert's number. Then ordered the motor online. The numbers off the sticker are always good if that's possible. These motors are inexpensive in Amazon now so as long as the rig does not need torn apart to replace the motor, its no longer an issue should a motor fail. I've not ran across anyone on the forum with 500:1 motors where the huge slide on our Imagine uses 300:1 motors.

Jim

[Yoda]

Yoda -- getting the RPO number off of the sticker is the best way...but you've already identified that's not possible.

Maybe Customer Service can identify the exact model based on your VIN?

The model of controller in your trailer may narrow the choices, too. Take a pic of it and post it.

Ok was able to find a few things and wedge my body in places it should not have wedged to get at the frame label.


An then to get at the slide label I had to remove a bracket.




So what numbers do I need to talk to Lippert with?

Thanks

Keith

[Country Campers]

Yoda

Here is some info,

170000 : MECHANISM-MOTOR-ONLY-IN SLIDE WALL SCHWINTEK | Grand Design (granddesignrv.com) GD parts look up their part # is 17000 , IG-42-10MM

IG-42 Motor - 10mm (lci1.com) Lippert part # 236575, under specifications Grand Design part # 17000

It looks like the 236575 part is what you need, here is a Amazon link

Amazon.com: 236575, RV In-Wall Slide-Out Motor Compatible with Lippert Schwintek In-Wall Slide System, IG-42 10mm motor Assembly, Slide Motor for Travel Trailer and Camper | 300:1 High Torque Gear Ratio, 12V : Automotive

Brian

[Yoda]

Yoda

Here is some info,

170000 : MECHANISM-MOTOR-ONLY-IN SLIDE WALL SCHWINTEK | Grand Design (granddesignrv.com) GD parts look up their part # is 17000 , IG-42-10MM

IG-42 Motor - 10mm (lci1.com) Lippert part # 236575, under specifications Grand Design part # 17000

It looks like the 236575 part is what you need, here is a Amazon link

Amazon.com: 236575, RV In-Wall Slide-Out Motor Compatible with Lippert Schwintek In-Wall Slide System, IG-42 10mm motor Assembly, Slide Motor for Travel Trailer and Camper | 300:1 High Torque Gear Ratio, 12V : Automotive

Brian

Thanks
Question should I trust the $70 ones, Sometimes a price is too good to be true. I wonder if anyone has used one of the $70 ones?

Keith

[howson]

Yoda -- the RPO number is what Lippert will want.

The controller identifies that part are revision D-0. (Not sure that's important but at least you'll know if they ask.)

When I took Lippert's online course these are the motors that were known at the time. (As Jim mentioned, the 500:1 is not used on any of our trailers to my knowledge.)

[Yoda]

Yoda -- the RPO number is what Lippert will want.

Thanks Howard
I have sent an email off to Lippert to verify (before you posted), but I know your correct on this. Whats you opinion on the $70 Amazon specials. It appears the Lippert ones are sourced out and not US made either.

Keith

[howson]

Yoda,
Bob, my RVSA Instructor, was an ardent advocate for not buying replacement parts from Amazon for all the reasons that are in your head. He was coming at it from a business-perspective and associated liability (due to the unknown source of a given part) as many students go on to start their own independent mobile tech service.

Me? I'd only order if fully refundable because there would be a close inspection and maybe even a "bench check" to ensure serviceability.

[Guest]

Yoda,
Bob, my RVSA Instructor, was an ardent advocate for not buying replacement parts from Amazon for all the reasons that are in your head. He was coming at it from a business-perspective and associated liability (due to the unknown source of a given part) as many students go on to start their own independent mobile tech service.

Me? I'd only order if fully refundable because there would be a close inspection and maybe even a "bench check" to ensure serviceability.

Howard, since most every component on our rigs are sourced from China and available on Amazon, I would try the motor and install it to check its performance while saving the OEM motor as a spare. These motors are returnable through Amazon within 30 days. Most likely a dealer would not accept a return even on a Lippert sourced motor so this is worth a try IMO.

https://www.amazon.com/236575-Wall-S...91&sr=8-5&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo...ps%2C91&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo...ps%2C91&sr=8-7


Jim

[Yoda]

And we have the answer from Lippert - I emailed them yesterday - excellent response time.

Good afternoon Keith.

The part # for the motor is 236575. Your cost $309.95 and you can order online or by calling 1-574-537-8900.

Thank you

Tamara H.
Lippert Customer Care Center Representative
p: 432.LIPPERT | f: 574.534.7161
e: customerservice@lci1.com

I think I will try the $71 one with the warrentee howson Howard how would you go about your "Bench Check"

Thanks Everyone
Keith

[howson]

Yoda

Keep in mind this is theoretical and based on "book knowledge"--I've never tried it myself--so if you try it don't blame me if it goes sideways.

Assuming I have a spare harness, with 12V power disconnected (just in case) I'd remove both of the existing motor inputs to the controller. I'd then plug the spare harness into one of the controller inputs and to the motor. I'd figure out a way to secure the motor without having to hold it (shouldn't be an issue but again, just in case). Then I'd reapply 12V power and have a helper extend and retract the slide. (Obviously the slide won't move--the only thing that will happen is the motor will turn in both directions.)

Of course there will be an error almost immediately due to the non-connected motor (probably indicating an open), so a manual override will be required to run the motor for a bit in both directions.

Forum members...if I overlooked something chime in...

[Yoda]

Yoda

Keep in mind this is theoretical and based on "book knowledge"--I've never tried it myself--so if you try it don't blame me if it goes sideways.

Assuming I have a spare harness, with 12V power disconnected (just in case) I'd remove both of the existing motor inputs to the controller. I'd then plug the spare harness into one of the controller inputs and to the motor. I'd figure out a way to secure the motor without having to hold it (shouldn't be an issue but again, just in case). Then I'd reapply 12V power and have a helper extend and retract the slide. (Obviously the slide won't move--the only thing that will happen is the motor will turn in both directions.)

Of course there will be an error almost immediately due to the non-connected motor (probably indicating an open), so a manual override will be required to run the motor for a bit in both directions.

Forum members...if I overlooked something chime in...

Is there any information on the wiring color coding on the motor. One video indicated that black is power for one direction and red the other. Something about green being ground and the other three wires for the hall effect sensor. In the video he was re-soldering wires to the old style motor circuit board. I was hoping to leave the existing wiring alone and just test the motor on the bench so to say to just make sure it runs.
Thoughts
Keith

Ill send an email to Lippert

[Guest]

You can test the motor with a harness (those are pricey) and a 12v battery to see if it functions but this will not test the hall sensor and feedback or the motor capacity. You can install it into the slide (practice now or install later) and leave it there as long as its functioning as expected. Before the inexpensive motors were available, I purchased a $200 spare and just did the battery (controller) test so I'm winging it.

Otherwise there are instruments to test this but its not worth going into that since it would cost far too much.

Keith if your buying a harness along with the motor, I unplugged both motors from the controller and operated the spare motor with a spare harness and from the slide switch until it quit. A code should show up on the side that no motor is connected. You can run the motor indefinitely this way in override mode but this will not test the sensor.

Jim

[Lonestar]

The pricing for the wiring harness is insane, especially if you just need a short run for testing purposes. If anyone could determine what connectors are used it would be great to be able to DIY a short pigtail. Several months ago I did some searching and found a Molex connector that looked similar but I could never find documentation that it was the same one as on the factory harness.

By the way, last summer I called Lippert regarding identifying the model motor in my Schwintek, and at the time they were recommending that if a motor went bad to not replace only one motor, but replacing both. They said pairing the motors were beneficial. I question this, but the good thing was they were offering two motors for the same price as one, and I'm thinking it was around $180.