Should I Upgrade Brake Wiring?

[Yoda]

Well, I went down the rabbit hole. It looks like brake controllers control voltage to the brake circuit. So if voltage is controlled, what is the associated current?

wire gauge. Ohms/30ft.
14 0.0758
12 0.0476
10 0.0300

Magnet Ohms. 4.0

Ohms per mag + wire
4.076
4.048
4.030

amps/volt/magnet
0.245
0.247
0.248

4 brakes × 0.245 × 6 volts = 5.88 amps
4 brakes × 0.247 × 6 volts = 5.93 amps
4 brakes × 0.248 × 6 volts = 5.95 amps

Double the voltage to 12 volts, full power out of the controller, double the current.


So what? Current per magnet per volt applied varies only in the third decimal. Not much current difference between the three wire gauges. Current through the magnet determines it magnetic strength. Doesn't seem to be enough difference to justify rewiring 14ga.

WOW!!!
My head now hurts

Thanks Ted - I learned enough in College electrical class to satisfy my Civil degree. Enough to be dangerous. I just wish my instructor was better. Learned more in high school then college - just the basics. From what you have posted I remember enough to be OK with what I have - for once I am saving $$ here and not spending it Thanks Much
Cate&Rob

Rob - the WAGO's would be high and dry (I can tie them up in the belly). Soldering (lousy at that) should be good too, actually easier. The question on the Weather Pack is getting two #14 wire on one pin, assuming what I have can handle the amperage. Need to look that up.I think they are good to #12 wire
One last question, with Ted's input I am good with 14 awg. so do I leave the 3M connections the way they are to feed the axles, or replace (solder or WAGO, Weather Pack)?

Thanks everyone

[Jlawles2]

Keith, I cheat on soldering connections b/c it's just easier.

Step 1: Flux both wire ends that will be in the connector
Step 2: Using a naked connector, crimp the wires into the connector
Step 3: Using a micro torch (https://www.amazon.com/Solder-SODMJ3...dDbGljaz10cnVl) I heat the connector until the flux burns off
Step 4: Touch solder to both of the wires and let it get drawn into the connector
Step 5: Using heat gun shrink the tubing over the connector. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I like the glue lined as the glue will act as a sealer especially if doing a 3 way connection.

As for the boost settings, from what I learned when looking for brake controllers before the integrated ones were in everything, boost is the initial voltage during braking (think of it as an exponential multiplier for the output). Brake magnets are voltage variable to increase or decrease pull. Higher voltage = more braking force.

[Yoda]

I had a chat with Bear Trailer today. I asked about the 14 wag wiring. Chad says I am fine and they are aware of what Dexter says. All of the wire they carry for repairs is 14 awg. Sounds like the same stuff GD uses. He did agree with my concern on the 3M splice bulbs as they have seen issues too. WAGO should work if kept dry. They normally uses butt connectors with heat shrink tubing over them. I did find my barrel ferrules (plain) that I could crimp and solder the wire into and heat shrink cover. Chad also said the weather Pack were good too and make future service easier if the magnets needed replacing.

Now if it would warm up a bit.
Keith

[Jlawles2]

I'd probably avoid the weather pack connectors for the magnets. Reason, the barrel or blade are much easier to replace when / if the time comes. Also with the barrel ones you may be able to fish it through the hole in the backing plate if needed to remove the magnet for service.

Remember to put the male on one of the brake wires and the female on the other. That way when you replace, you use a set vs ending up with a bunch of one or the other. Just saying.

[Yoda]

Just an update
I was under the trailer yesterday looking at the wiring runs through the cross members and noticed some wire chafing. I have not had time to fully investigate, but my gut is telling me I need to dig deeper. I was going to wrap the hole edges with split loom (silicone in place) before closing this up. Do folks think that would work to protect the wiring better? So if you have your belly open tak a look where the wire passes through the cross members.

Keith

[howson]

Yoda

When I redid the wiring underneath I added loom where wires went through the frame. The split loom was easy to add, but securing the loom in place...I ended up using Gorilla tape. Not the best looking but it works.

Below are two examples of many locations where I added loom.

[Yoda]

Yoda

When I redid the wiring underneath I added loom where wires went through the frame. The split loom was easy to add, but securing the loom in place...I ended up using Gorilla tape. Not the best looking but it works.

Below are two examples of many locations where I added loom.

Thanks howard

I agree that should work and have done that already is a couple of spots, but in some places I don't have loom big enough for the entire bundle. I guess I cold split it apart, but it is so twisted up getting a group of wires to loom up would not be fun.. The frame holes I am referring too are the cross member ones that are maybe 2 to3" dia


Bottom of picture is the main wire bundle running down the drivers side (far side of picture). It's where it goes through the frame holes that is the issue. I am wondering if using loom around the hole edge will hold if I silicone it in place? I do plan to consolidate and zip tie the bundles as much as possible.

A few year back I tried to loom the center area and it seems to be working. But I dont have any more of this big loom and to order you need to get 50 to 100'. I wonder if NAPA carry's it? The area of the chafing is buried in the far left penetration into the front bay.I have not touched this. What you see is as it came from the factory. GD used some loom, but not everywhere here. The red romex looking wire is the duplex the brake line (white and blue wire), and I could feel a rough spot up top not visible here.. I think I can snake a piece of the 3/8 loom I have (like in the bottom of the photo), around this lip, but would that work in the long run, or would the wire chafe against it too?

Thanks
Keith

[howson]

Yoda

If there's no evidence of chaffing at the locations in question, and there's a chance of unintentional consequences trying to make it better, the old adage of "don't fix what isn't broken" may apply.

For the areas of concern you've mentioned in an earlier post, definitely listen to that "little voice" that's telling you to follow-up. Otherwise you'll get to fix it at the most inconvenient time and under the worst conditions. (I think that's an addendum to Murphy's Law.)

Howard

[Yoda]

Yoda

If there's no evidence of chaffing at the locations in question, and there's a chance of unintentional consequences trying to make it better, the old adage of "don't fix what isn't broken" may apply.

For the areas of concern you've mentioned in an earlier post, definitely listen to that "little voice" that's telling you to follow-up. Otherwise you'll get to fix it at the most inconvenient time and under the worst conditions. (I think that's an addendum to Murphy's Law.)

Howard

Thanks Howard
Murphy is my buddy as you know . Need to do some wire bundle measuring, O'Rilley has 3/4 loom available and Napa has 1" . Amazon can get it to me next week which will work too depemdimg who sell and stocks it.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

I've done a few different things. One is split heater hose for protector around the wires. Heater hose is typically sold by the foot at the local parts houses or an old water hose.

The second thing and this takes a bit, is to use fuel line or vacuum line and split it like loom. Then you take this and put it inside the opening on the penetration as a make shift grommet.

[Jlawles2]

I've been looking for a video where they put it on the edge of the hole. No luck so far, but here is a splitter for the hose: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...slicer.414996/

[CAVUMark]

I will admit that I did not read all the posts but I have a few tips from the airplane building business. There is a FAA "BIBLE" we use and electrical is a complete chapter.
1) don't solder terminal. Solder will travel down the wire and when flexed cause it so break. Use good crimp terminals, I would even recommend aviation terminals which crimp the wire and insulation
2) don't run wires below fluid lines. This is mostly fuel lines but water lines in a trailer could find their way back to a terminal and cause corrosion.
3) Strain relief every wire run within inches of the terminal or connection. You want the wire to flex and not the terminal from movement. The water pump and slide controller are excellent examples where the factory just let the wires hang from the termination putting the strain on the terminals.. no good.
4) Waterproof connectors to be used where needed, near the brakes is a good example,
5) Support wire runs every 12 inches or so if possible. Don't let wires just "hang" there.

I say trailers see much more shock and vibration than planes and should follow the same rules.