Wet bolt vs Neverfail bushings

[Beachcamper]

Beachcamper Superduty

It is interesting that the LCI techs chose to cross vehicle reinforce the 2" square tube above the hangers. The flex that breaks the hangers is below this square tube. Most cross vehicle reinforcing is done further down on the hanger legs. In any case, the V braces look good and will legitimately give you peace of mind.

Rob

Rob, got an answer today explaining Lipperts position on where to brace hangers.

Hi Vivian,

You can have anyone interested, contact our 39service@lci1.com or customerservice@lci1.com email address.

As far as the comment goes, the cross tubing we installed will help immensely with the frame and any possible cracking that can occur above the axle hangers. The V-braces are best for the axle hangers and the two combined together is one of the best systems for your axles and frame. The other methods the comment is referring to would basically take place of the V-bracing but can still leave the fame portion above the axles, vulnerable. What we did to yours is the best of both worlds. Hope this helps.

[Cate&Rob]

Beachcamper
Hi Vivian,

I would not disagree with the statement from LCI. Definitely the V bracing is proving to solve hanger breakage, for several of us. Cross bracing the square tubes to prevent "possible cracking that can occur above the axle hangers" is anticipating a problem that has (so far) not been reported on our trailers. The trade-off with these cross braces is the added complication of extracting the coroplast if this becomes necessary.

Good discussion . . . thanks for the follow-up with Lippert !

Rob

[Beachcamper]

Beachcamper
Hi Vivian,

I would not disagree with the statement from LCI. Definitely the V bracing is proving to solve hanger breakage, for several of us. Cross bracing the square tubes to prevent "possible cracking that can occur above the axle hangers" is anticipating a problem that has (so far) not been reported on our trailers. The trade-off with these cross braces is the added complication of extracting the coroplast if this becomes necessary.

Good discussion . . . thanks for the follow-up with Lippert !

Rob

Absolutely agree with you on issue of welded cross braces making coroplast removal difficult. However, they sliced through edges of coroplast along the crush tube. Wish I had rig to take pic, but it is at GD service center for who knows how long. You can unbolt rear area and slide across top of welded braces. I can also replace freshwater tank or repair it if needed, I made sure of this before going this route. I have been reading of other brands having the axle area framing I Beam twist and bend in many brands with Lippert frames. I personally don’t trust the stock suspension and don’t trust Lippert frames. So, we shall see if this is in fact going to help or not as I roll down the road next few years. One positive I see is at least water tank has more support. 😂

I got the bill from them yesterday and the reinforcement as documented is roughly $750 VClips and cross members. They don’t have that itemized cost but total bill for all work including the equalizers, upgrade shackles, bearing maintenance and replacing one bearing pack, wet bolts and bushings (BTW NeverFail) which tech said to add grease twice a year. This contradicts what I read on NeverFail but he likes them better than the bronze bushings, came to $1300

Vivian

[Cate&Rob]

wet bolts and bushings (BTW NeverFail) which tech said to add grease twice a year. This contradicts what I read on NeverFail

Hi Vivian,

The information that came with the LCI Never Fail bushings that I tried for a while was very clear that this bushing material must run dry with no grease. They went as far as the say that the "forever" warranty on the bushings was void if there was grease present. Despite what this technician advises . . . I would suggest that you check with Lippert.
https://store.lci1.com/never-fail-bu...fail-bush.html

Rob

[Beachcamper]

Hi Vivian,

The information that came with the LCI Never Fail bushings that I tried for a while was very clear that this bushing material must run dry with no grease. They went as far as the say that the "forever" warranty on the bushings was void if there was grease present. Despite what this technician advises . . . I would suggest that you check with Lippert.
https://store.lci1.com/never-fail-bu...fail-bush.html

Rob

Finally had a chance to verify with Lippert tech. They did install the NeverFail on the spring ends and confirmed to not grease them. The Equalflex comes with grease bolts and bronze bushings so only to grease the three bolts per side. Also on torque, only the U Bolts, do not torque the wetbolts. I asked them how long based on my fulltime mileage which is roughly 8000 tow miles per year should I replace bushings? He said every two years inspect and replace if needed.

Hope this helps others with similar questions.

[TucsonJim]

Finally had a chance to verify with Lippert tech. They did install the NeverFail on the spring ends and confirmed to not grease them. The Equalflex comes with grease bolts and bronze bushings so only to grease the three bolts per side. Also on torque, only the U Bolts, do not torque the wetbolts. I asked them how long based on my fulltime mileage which is roughly 8000 tow miles per year should I replace bushings? He said every two years inspect and replace if needed.

Hope this helps others with similar questions.

Just understand that inspection means disassembly in order to inspect the bushings. If you remove the nuts on a bushing bolt, they need to be discarded and replaced with new nuts. The nuts used on the suspension are "crush" style locking nuts. These nuts can only be applied one time. Reuse risks them backing off which can result in a catastrophic suspension failure. In an emergency, you can reinstall the nuts with Blue Loctite. Other types of locking nuts and lock washers should not be used on the bushing bolts.

Jim

[Beachcamper]

Just understand that inspection means disassembly in order to inspect the bushings. If you remove the nuts on a bushing bolt, they need to be discarded and replaced with new nuts. The nuts used on the suspension are "crush" style locking nuts. These nuts can only be applied one time. Reuse risks them backing off which can result in a catastrophic suspension failure. In an emergency, you can reinstall the nuts with Blue Loctite. Other types of locking nuts and lock washers should not be used on the bushing bolts.

Jim

Correct Jim, that is what he explained. I did not convey that well.

Vivian