Oven weird behavior

[Schiefswret]

We’ve been using our oven without any issues for almost two years now and all of the sudden, after it’s been on for about one minute, it goes completely out.
Background info: 1) all three topside burners work perfectly fine. 2) plenty of propane in tanks 3) furnace works fine 4) when we use propane for the fridge it works fine
That’s all that I can think of that may be helpful. All inputs and experiences much appreciated.

[StephenO]

Hey Dave, is the pilot light going out too, or is it just the main burner? If the pilot light goes out, I would suspect an issue with the thermocouple. If just the main burner is going out, perhaps a bad thermostat? Assuming the air vents are not blocked or anything, especially since you've been using it for so long with no issue.

[Schiefswret]

TY SteveO. All goes out including the Pilot. I suppose I should Google or YouTube the procedure for replacing the Thermocouple as a first attempt to narrow down the potential fix. In the meantime Ill see if anyone else chimes in to add anything. Thanks again!

[Country Campers]

I would agree with the thermocouple , they do not last forever. We had to replace one in a previous TT years ago that was about 6 years old that we had used more than the previous owner. We also had to do the furnace thermocouple in that camper.

Brian

[ThePowells]

Dave, third vote for the thermocouple. My pilot goes out as soon as I release the knob.

[colan]

There are two things I think are most likely to be the issue:

1. Thermocouple - I’m thinking maybe, but probably not. Why? It generates a small electric current when heated. These tend to just plain fail. Either they work or don’t work. Thermocouples have no moving parts and no electronics. Basically they generate current flow by heating.

2. The oven control assembly (knob, valve, …) receives the current from thermocouple and with a small magnet holds open the gas valve. I’ve seen these fail. I’ve also seen the stove sheet metal get displaced not allowing the knob when depressed to light the pilot to full engage and open the gas valve, this was on a Suburban.

If the range is a suburban most require the manifold assembly to be replaced, the oven control is not a separate part.

[Schiefswret]

It’s a Furrion. I’m thinking about replacing the thermocouple and see what happens. I’ll search YouTube to see if I can find a how-to video to determine if it’s something that I can do myself or not. Appreciate your input.

[howson]

It’s a Furrion. I’m thinking about replacing the thermocouple and see what happens. I’ll search YouTube to see if I can find a how-to video to determine if it’s something that I can do myself or not. Appreciate your input.

Does the pilot stay lit when the oven "turns off" or does it also quit? If the pilot stays lit it's not the thermocouple (more likely the capillary temp sensor or whatever Furrion calls it). You might want to take a quick peak and make sure it is centered above the pilot flame.

There's a Furrion in the classroom--and this is the topic we're studying (which is why I opened this thread to look at it). A thermocouple is easy to test if you know how to use a multimeter.
I'll take a look at the oven in class tomorrow and see how hard it is to replace the thermocouple and will report back.

I'm not sure if there's a secondary regulator for the oven--I know there's one for the cooktop burners.

Note that if the propane lines are opened that there's a bunch of stuff that "should" be done (leak checks, verify 11" of WC from the supply side of the oven, etc). All very doable but there are a lot of "gotchas" that could bite a DIY'er if they don't know what they are doing (and why). Just an FYI.

The pic below was taken less than an hour ago (I, of course, tore into my Furrion stove after school...lol).

[Schiefswret]

Hey Howard, thanks for chiming in. After about one min of good flame, the flame, including the pilot, goes out. I contacted E Trailer and they claim that my model is no longer manufactured. FWIWThe model number on the front of my booklet shows FSRE21SA, FSRE21SA-BL, FSRL21CA-BL, and SA-BL.

I’ve searched Amazon and they have three generic models but come in 3 lengths, 18, 24, and 36” which is a Emerson TC (18,24,36) Universal Thermocouple, $10.87. So I’m not sure which one, if any, I should order. I’m thinking that I could call GD parts as in the past they sent me a few inexpensive parts even though I’m out of warranty. I could then try to find some YouTube videos regarding removal/installation.
Your thoughts on option(s) ?

[Cate&Rob]

We have parallel Furrion Oven threads going with info in each that pertains to the other. See this thread as well. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ion-oven-parts

Rob

[howson]

Hey Howard, thanks for chiming in. After about one min of good flame, the flame, including the pilot, goes out. I contacted E Trailer and they claim that my model is no longer manufactured. FWIWThe model number on the front of my booklet shows FSRE21SA, FSRE21SA-BL, FSRL21CA-BL, and SA-BL.

I’ve searched Amazon and they have three generic models but come in 3 lengths, 18, 24, and 36” which is a Emerson TC (18,24,36) Universal Thermocouple, $10.87. So I’m not sure which one, if any, I should order. I’m thinking that I could call GD parts as in the past they sent me a few inexpensive parts even though I’m out of warranty. I could then try to find some YouTube videos regarding removal/installation.
Your thoughts on option(s) ?

I'll look tomorrow, Dave, at what's at school.

Country Campers -- I saw your note in the RVSA thread. I'll reply there, too.

After doing some studying tonight and reviewing for the test tomorrow it dawned on me that there is NOT an additional secondary regulator for the oven--both the cooktop and oven use the same secondary regulator. The oven taps off the manifold. This leads me to conclude the problem isn't regulator-related (either the primary regulator at your cylinders or the secondary at the range, which is near the cooktop burners.)

What the oven does have that is unique is it's own orifice. One definition of an orifice (from grill-repair.com); The orifice in the valve restricts gas flow just slightly enough to define the BTU of the burner.

If the oven's orifice is partially clogged it could produce the symptoms you're experiencing. I think the orifice is right at the manifold, but not sure. Will check on this tomorrow, too. If you decide to try cleaning the orifice, do not use any tools in the orifice opening. Clean with denatured alcohol only. Poking something in the orifice can damage it, which could result in a much higher BTU output than designed. (Again, lots of "gotchas" with going after a propane-related issue.)

[Schiefswret]

We have parallel Furrion Oven threads going with info in each that pertains to the other. See this thread as well. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ion-oven-parts

Rob

Good news, thanks Rob!

[Schiefswret]

Woops Dupe

[howson]

Schiefswret (Dave),
As I wrote on the Furrion Oven Parts thread, the first thing to know is TTBOMK you can't buy a replacement part for the Furrion range.

A couple of things I learned playing with the oven today in class.

1) If the thermocouple is disconnected (unscrewed) from the thermostat, the oven burner and the pilot will not light. Based on that, a couple of questions.

Q1: Does the pilot light stay on when the burner turns off?

Q2: If the pilot goes out, too, can you immediately relight the pilot?

If the answer to Q1 is "yes" it is unlikely that the thermocouple is the problem.

If the answers to Q1 and Q2 are both "no", there's likely an issue with the thermocouple. Which means a new range if you want to use the oven with OEM parts. (No idea if there's an aftermarket or alternative that will work. I'd be very hesitant about installing a thermocouple without knowing it is compatible with the Furrion thermostat.)

If the answer to Q2 is "yes" (the pilot will immediately relight) it could be a regulator issue. Have you done a manometer check to ensure the gas pressure before and after the secondary regulator is correct?

A classmate just asked me, "Does it stay lit with the door open?" If the answer to that (let's call it Q3) is "yes", the problem could be the vent through the bottom of the door is passing air to the burner. By any chance is there aluminum foil lining the bottom of the oven? (That could block off the air required for combustion.)

Finally, it is possible to remove the oven's burner orifice to clean it.

The burner assembly easily comes out by removing two bolts and pulling it forward out of the stove. The picture below shows the bolts removed. You can do a visual inspection of the orifice with the burner removed.





If the orifice looks clogged, it is possible to remove it for cleaning. Remember: DO NOT poke anything into the orifice's hole. Damaging the brass orifice could change the BTU output (too much gas).

Country Campers -- FYI

Assuming the burner is out as shown previously,
In pic 1 below, on the back of the oven there's a panel that easily comes off.
Pic 2 is the oven's burner gas line. I disconnected this line.
Pic 3 is a 14mm nut over the orifice housing. I accessed the nut from the front (reaching through the oven interior).
Pic 4 is the "L" with the orifice embedded removed from the oven.
Pic 5 is the orifice.



Hope this helps.

Howard

[Schiefswret]

I'll look tomorrow, Dave, at what's at school.

Country Campers -- I saw your note in the RVSA thread. I'll reply there, too.

After doing some studying tonight and reviewing for the test tomorrow it dawned on me that there is NOT an additional secondary regulator for the oven--both the cooktop and oven use the same secondary regulator. The oven taps off the manifold. This leads me to conclude the problem isn't regulator-related (either the primary regulator at your cylinders or the secondary at the range, which is near the cooktop burners.)

What the oven does have that is unique is it's own orifice. One definition of an orifice (from grill-repair.com); The orifice in the valve restricts gas flow just slightly enough to define the BTU of the burner.

If the oven's orifice is partially clogged it could produce the symptoms you're experiencing. I think the orifice is right at the manifold, but not sure. Will check on this tomorrow, too. If you decide to try cleaning the orifice, do not use any tools in the orifice opening. Clean with denatured alcohol only. Poking something in the orifice can damage it, which could result in a much higher BTU output than designed. (Again, lots of "gotchas" with going after a propane-related issue.)

Can’t figure out why I just saw this today, but if anyone knows how to specifically locate the ovens orifice and where to find the specifics on how to properly clean it, that would be very much appreciated. Big thanks to all contributors here.

btw- I understand the product to use to clean the orifice is denatured alcohol but what about the correct cleaning procedure to use?
pls advise. Tks.