I can't help you decide which 5th Wheel to purchase but I can chime in on your 6.4 Hemi. I had a 2017 Ram 1 ton Bighorn with that engine. Great engine but extremely thirsty. Especially when towing. With that truck, we towed a Forest River Hemisphere that weighed 10,000 pounds loaded to Florida and back from Western NY. We got on average 8mpg. We got 7mpg going the speed limit on the way down and 9mpg keeping the speed at 55-60mph on the way home (doing the actual math). Going up the Fancy Gap on I-77 which has about a 4.5% grade on the way home was peddle to the floor and 4000rpm's/2mpg on the computer readout for 6 miles. When we sold the FR Hemisphere and bought our GD 311BHS we got 6mpg towing it home from the dealer that was 4 hours away from our home going no more than 65mph. It had nothing in it except a battery and two full propane tanks (Doing the math). Specs say it weighs 11,185 empty so it weighed around 11,350 at most for that initial trip home. I knew there was no way I was going to keep that truck with the 6.4 Hemi. 6mpg and only a 31 gallon tank was just not going to work.

With the payload that you have I think the 31MB should work out just fine and would not be concerned about towing that unit but you might find that you are close or over your payload. If you load carefully I would think you should be fine on payload but it will be close.

Rob

My payload would be what is in the truck and bed Hitch weight? I normally Do not have a lot in the bed

Thirsty for sure. I did a trip from Phx to Durango with the ram and a 21' TT had a AVG 15MPG but I stopped several times to make sure i never got low on gas.
Any hill grades on your trips?

Yes. I edited my first post. The Fancy Gap on I-77 has a 4.5% grade for about 6 miles. The computer said I was getting 2mpg and I was running at 4000 RPM's peddle to the floor that whole climb.

A quick estimator is to use 25% of the 5th wheel's GVWR to determine the worst case scenario for pin ("hitch") weight.

The 31MB's GVWR is 11995, so worst-case pin is 3K lbs.

The 295RL's is 10995, so ~2.7K lbs.

Will you see these weights? Depends on how you load the trailer. Some go above the GVWR (and have a higher pin weight), some folks are very conservative and pack lightly. Be honest with yourself and you'll have a good idea if the truck can handle the weight.

I just noticed in your first post you wrote, According to the dealer VIN Max Payload is 3073.92 Lbs

What does the sticker on the inside of the driver's doorframe state for your specific vehicle? (I bet they are WAY different!)

Howard

Sticker say 3074

The payload sticker number shouldn't be given so much attention. Take your truck to a CAT scale with everything in it ready to hook up and go camping. All passengers, full tank of fuel, hitch in the bed and any other things you would normally carry in the truck or truck bed. Know what your rear axel weight rating is. Subtract what the drive axel weight is from the CAT scale from the rear gross axel weight rating on your truck and that's how much weight you can have on the pin before being over. My guess is your tires are rated for 3,750 pounds or close to that so the rear axel weight rating is the weakest link.

Dv602 I've got a 303RL which is about 1k heavier, basically the same floorplan. I am pulling it with a 3/4 ton GM instead of the Ram.

99% of the stuff in the unit less clothes and food, I weighted everything. With 63 gallons of fresh water on board.

Gross truck and trailer was 19,700 lbs.
Truck only 8660 lbs
Trailer only 11,040 lbs (total trailer weight)
Trailer axle weight 8,860 lbs
Pin weight 2,180 lbs.

That put's me at 19.7% tongue weight on the truck.

With the 150 line, the pin weight will be less as that is the way they are designed. So your bed payload is not an issue unless you load everything in the front bedroom. Unfortunately the biggest thing you will fight is the drive train (All 3 of the us MFG when setup the same have the same issues). The gas engine, transmission, and rear gear ratio's will determine how well the truck does the job. No doubt it will pull it, but as mentioned fuel mileage and grade pulling will suffer the most.

Note placement of the pin in the bed is critical to that 3074 payload number. Between the rear axle and the tailgate and you actually pick up on the front of the truck transferring load to the rear axle. Between the axles and they each get a portion of the load (more ideal). My guess is the 3074 is based on a well placed load in the bed.

That is correct.

Rob

To explain further, With everyone and everything in my truck ready to go camping and hitch in the bed and a full tank of Diesel, I went to the CAT scale. As you can see, My Drive Axel was 3640 pounds. My rear Gross Axel Weight Rating is 6600 pounds. So subtracting one from the other, I have 2,960 pounds left to work with. My pin weight on my RV has never been over 2,700 pounds loaded ready to camp. That keeps me 260 pounds below max allowance. My door sticker says I have 3,310 pounds of Payload available. So with the weight of me and my wife = 350 pounds, plus weight of the hitch = 180 pounds, plus weight of my Tonneau cover = 75 pounds, plus the weight of other "stuff" in the truck = 50 pounds the numbers are different. If I subtracted the weights I mentioned from the sticker number I'm left with 2,655 pounds of available payload rather than 2,960 pounds. I purposely didn't include the weight of fuel using the sticker number because I don't know if GM accounts for a full tank of fuel or not. If they don't then my numbers would even be worse using only the sticker to determine what my truck will handle legally. I prefer to know real weight situations than to rely on any number on a sticker.

At 3074 Payload in the truck I think you would be okay or at least close. Pay attention to what you put in the bed, how and what you load into the fiver, and try for a lighter hitch and you could make it. I agree with Howard and tend to figure 25% of the GVWR of the trailer as a "worst case" pin weight. If you have that number in mind that will help with thinking of how and what you load. Regardless of what you do I suggest a trip to the scales once you are loaded up to see where you end up.

When planning or shopping for a tow vehicle (or trailer) a potential buyer has no idea of the actual weight of the truck or trailer, especially when it comes to TV payload. Not knowing about the "sticker" cost me big time and led me to buying a second truck. (I was a whopper of a newb.)

Dv602 would be well informed if they used their existing tow vehicle's sticker number while subtracting for people and "stuff" as they have to determine what their payload capacity is on the truck.

Using just planning tools and a worst case scenario (25% of the trailer's GVWR pin weight) there's three possible outcomes.

1) Their tow vehicle will handle the worst-case scenario. Buy the RV and press on with camping. Highly unlikely there will be an issue.

3) The numbers are close or just over the truck's payload. They will have to make an informed decision about not being able to pack out with every accessory in the RV or go to "plan B". Plan on a few trips to the CAT scale to confirm everything is within specifications.

3) The numbers are way off. Consider a different tow vehicle or trailer.

If you disagree with that thought process that's fine. We'll agree to disagree. That's perfectly acceptable on this forum.

Howard

I don't disagree with you at all. If the numbers on the stickers weren't important they wouldn't be there in the first place. I was just saying there's a lot more that goes into what any tow vehicle can carry legally and it's important to learn about it so after buying the vehicle or camper, we don't rely on sticker info alone. When buying a vehicle, you're right that there's a lot we don't know so those sticker numbers are what we have to work with. But it's in everyone's best interest to learn everything we can about what the capabilities are of a truck and/or trailer. We certainly don't want to buy something and think because it pulled the space shuttle in a commercial that it must be able to pull anything an RV manufacturer sells. Vehicle manufacturers and RV dealers are trying to make a sale and not all of them have your best interest at heart. It's up to us to know as much as we can. That in part is why we have forums like this one, so we all can be more informed.