Grease... They don't tell you very well in the manual, but you need to grease the silver ring retainer collar in the head to the painted plate its on. Also you need to grease the groove in the king pin itself for the retainer collar to spin on. And never forget that the mating plate between the head of the hitch and the pin box. I had lots of issues hooking and unhooking when the 3 critical components were not greased.

I fought mine the first couple of trips until i greased all of these points. At one time I almost took a 4lb hammer to the handle to get it apart. Did the emergency unhitch procedure as you mention and it fought a little, but did come loose.

My Reese Titan R20 can be a bit picky, but I found if I lift the trailer as you did - just see the hitch plate relax that by rocking the truck a bit it will unhook. One campground I had a neighbor pull on the release as I rocked the truck. With the good quality hitches tolerances are very tight and proper lubrication is critical.

This may sound strange but I use John Deer chain lube on the moving connections. It does not attract dirt as most lubes do. I also use the built in grease zerks for normal lubrication.

Never really thought about chain lube, but I have some of this https://www.walmart.com/ip/White-Lig...t-2oz/17331859 really like the fact that it "dries".

There is some stuff out there that if the oil field shows ever come back around I need to get the name of. It's an open gear lube, develops a "skin" when not moving and water resistant.

I have a Curt 20k hitch and it too is touchy at times. In addition to having all the necessary lubrication already mentioned I have found that when I am unhooking it is best if I don't apply the Truck emergency brake. Having the break on seems to not allow the TV and pin to separate freely. Caution with this method. Do not have anything in front of or behind the truck tires when using this method. The truck will move slightly forward when the pin is lifted enough to disengage the dual locking jaws of the hitch.

We have used our Superglide for going on 8 seasons. Not certain what Joseph (and others) are sharing in posts relative to greasing but that is news to me with a Superglide (at least the generations I am aware of in nearly last decade). The SG is a little different animal when it comes to lubrication requirements.

In any event, the few times ours would not unhook was due to weigh being on the hitch collar that wraps around the pin due to the RV pin having pressure on the rear of the collar as a result of the RV and truck "pulling" at each other for what ever reason. The SG needs to ensure the pin is not tugging back to easily open. Doing just the opposite with the RV pin having pressure at the front of the hitch collar will allow it to open easily.

And it does not matter whether all the RV weight is on the hitch head plate or you are raising the pin by dropping the front legs. This said, you do not want to raise the fiver pin above the hitch head as this will bind the bottom lip of the hitch pin to the collar and not allow it to open either.

The SG hitch mechanism and slide tubes requires only WD 40 as required and specified in the owners manual which you should have or can access on the Pull Rite site. The only grease points are the two left and right side hitch head "pins" area that allow for hitch head "up and down" tilting and the huge center head swivel bolt and face areas for the side to side movement which are two very important areas.

If you need pictures I will take some and share those. Reading the owners manual is quick and easy and will provide what you need.

Dan

Pages 6 and 7 discuss the lubrication points I was referring to. https://www.pullrite.com/sites/defau...s-manual_0.pdf

With little to no weight on the head (tried it both ways) and truck rocking forward and backwards eventually I was able to get the jaw mechanism to release. I tried the light oil thing with no success. Heavy spray lube on the rotating jaw and the king pin was the most effective thing. Also the flat mating surfaces of the hitch and KP where painted acted like a glue which caused me to have issues with latching when backing up. When I set it up so that the KP plate hit the head as suggested, it would bind before the pin seated, or the jaw would bind and not rotate into position.

Thanks for that info. So, do you raise the RV from the hitch plate so you can see a gap of maybe 1mm, or does the pin plate still touch the hitch plate when you’ve been unhooking? We do like the idea of not put the TV emergency brake on while we unhitch in case we have to shake the truck a little (we don’t think it will shake too much, but may jar pin from hitch). There was a good PullRite You Tube video made by one of their engineers which showed what to grease, but don’t recall the hitch head pins needing grease, but we guess it couldn’t hurt.

There are 2 pivot pins that need to be greased that allow the head to pivot front and rear. Those are the ones he is referring to. Also there is a side to side pin that should be greased yearly but it requires pilling the bolt.

Refer to the manual I linked for grease points on the head. My head was dry and I could not pull the handle under load. I found greasing the pin help a lot as that is the biggest binder for the locking collar.

We do not raise the RV hitch plate off the SG hitch head face. We stop at the point where we can see a gap and drop the RV just a bit. And to pull the handle to release the hitch jaw, as long as the fiver pin is not pulling on the wrap around jaw backwards, the release handle should pull easily trusting lubrication maintenance is performed as addressed in the owners manual, no damage, etc.

I think what is causing some consternation for some folks is the "rolling forward" of the truck (fiver does not move) when shifting to park. Guess what happens, this little roll distance puts pressure on where on the hitch ?.......correct the rear of the jaws side causing the hitch release handle to not move or move very hard. Using the emergency brake on the truck eliminates this "rolling forward issue.

Secondly, if the fiver does not have wheel chocks installed or some other measure to prevent the fiver from rolling backwards, guess what happens again........yes, resistance on the rear of the jaws making the release handle hard to pull or not move at all.

My Owners Manual page 11 covers the unhitching process I referenced above. Ensure you read the Owners Manual for your hitch for what may or may not be different. Lubrication using WD40 and heavy quality grease is covered on page 6 & 7 of may manual. Hitch pins are covered. If you need pictures, let me know and I will post some. Again, ensure you read this section as applicable for your hitch.

Keeping the hitch lubricated and clean will make for trouble free operation. We have our hitch covered with the truck bed cover when not towing.

Dan

First time camping with our new 5er. Followed the guidance from PullRite on lube. Also followed this groups suggestions with chalks, TV emergency brakes, and when we disconnected, it was so easy. Thank you for all the info / advice.

Good to hear. The single piece "wrap around" jaw used by Pullrite is an awesome design contrasted with the double scissors jaws of most other hitches. However, the challenge is the pressure on the rear of the jaw referenced in other posts, causes the hitch handle to not pull or pull hard as opposed to the scissors type dual jaws hitches it seems. Once folks have this figured out unhitching and hitching is easy and confirmed by pull handle full movement out or in.

The other nice thing when hitching is the initial "click" and then the louder "bang" when the handle fully retracts as the jaw wraps around the pin. Still getting out and making that visual check that the jaw did indeed wrap around the pin along with a visual check that the handle did in fact fully retract is important to ensuring a good day !

Dan

On maiden voyage with the superglide the wrap around jaw probably saved me. I hooked up in the dark and used a light to look into the throat of the head. I verified the jaw was behind the pin, but missed that the handle was not over the mechanical wedge. I put my e-brake snap through the handle hole as a precaution and went on my way. At one of the fuel stops while filing up I noticed the handle was not all the way in, I ended up having to unhook completely and rehood to get the handle to fully retract into the housing. If it were not for the rotation of the 5th wheel plate and the wrap around jaws, I most definately would have lost the trailer. I need to paint the handle indicating when its fully engaged as other MFG have done.

Joseph - Yikes ! Checking that the handle is fully in (engaged) should correspond with the 2nd louder "bang" I referenced. But, you never know for whatever reason.

When we first got ours in 2014, we were hitching up to take our 303 out of the indoors storage facility (friends building) we have used for going on 4 decades for various RVs and boats over the years Wayne said "it latched." However, that was just the "click" of the release pin for the jaws to move shut. When I got out the t ruck as it did not right. I saw the handle not closed.....oh oh ! I backed up a bit further and "bang" the handle fully retracted. That could have been a "bad day" w/o conducting the visual check of jaws, handle, etc.

Just one of many learning experiences of having RVs, boats, toys, etc., we all go through.

Dan

Canyonlight Dan, I can honestly say that taught me several lessons. Even then, as it was my 1st 5er and only the 2nd time hooking up myself (dealer did the fist one and I hitched one other time) I did and still do a visual on the jaw to see that its wrapped around the pin, I looked and still look at the handle, and do a TUG test using the trailer brakes and chocks.

I did all of the above on the hookup in question, but did not realize that the handle was not all the way in, yes there were 2 bangs not just the click, and being dark did not help in identifying with a flashlight that the wedge was not behind the plate.

I had several issues with the hitch even after that and even after going through the manual still found that adding lube in places not mentioned helped. Selling dealer (before the GD) was not really a help on instructing me how to use the hitch especially since they were locking the doors as we were getting in the truck in the parking lot.

I have since started using dry Graphite spray on the way tubes (I hate WD40 because its not a lube) and now the plate is graphite painted. Grease worked for helping with alignment as I found if you were not perfect it would bind the rotating jaw and it would not move. I made probably 4-6 attempts 1 day to get the jaws to latch. Each time the KP would trip the lever (heard it) but the jaw never moved. That's when I started greasing the KP to allow for the jaw to slide around. No more issues after that with either hooking or unhooking.