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I'll leave a specific response to the question about the truck to other 5th wheel owners (I own a travel trailer). What I can do is point you to a couple of resources here on the forum that will (hopefully) get you up to speed on tow ratings.

In the Reference Material section of the Towing and Hitches channel there are several threads with "101" type information regarding tow ratings.


Again, welcome!

Howard

QuinnCoach Welcome to the family and the forum!

I can't help as we pull with a DRW 3500.

Well safely is going to be an opinion. If towing within the payload rating is what you consider safe, then no, you will be over. I had a 377 (the previous version of the 378 with about identical dry weights. When loaded for travel it weighed 3700+ on the truck including the hitch but with empty holding tanks. That also doesn't include anything in the truck including passengers that will deduct from that payload rating.

I pulled it with a 2017 GMC SRW all over the country but I upgraded the suspension and tires. (This does NOT increase the original manufacturers rating BTW) and have been pulling for a very long time (I think that means I'm getting old) I am also more than likely moving to a DRW with the next truck soon (well as soon as you can find a truck again)

These discussions can get heated with a lot of differing opinions but I'll leave it at this: As a first timer, your pulling a lot of rig with a marginal truck.


Edit: I should add that personally I have never felt unsafe pulling with my SRW and I've been in some hellacious winds out west. But you can never have too much truck.

I tow our Reflection 29RS safely with that vehicle, although mine is a 2015, RV gross weight is 10995, scaled at 10000, probably more now that I added all of that solar stuff. The truck handles it nicely but I would definitely know if I had 6000# more behind me, and I do not think I would have the payload for that extra weight.

Brian

QuinnCoach , welcome to our family, and congrats on your new RV. I tow a Solitude 390 RKR with a 2015 3500 SB SRW. Our trailer has most factory options with the exception of laundry, and full paint. Our truck is rated to tow 17400, with a payload of 3774. I have one of the new pullrite lightweight steel hitches mounted to a curt rail adapter in a B&W underbed gooseneck platform. Hitch and adapter about 160 pounds. I weigh the combination at least yearly. We are within 200 pounds on rear axle and tire rating as of our last weigh, and we are not full time. I have added Timbren auxiliary rubber springs (which work great) to the truck, and a Truxedo roll up tonneau bed cover. Truck is otherwise stock. Our last hitch weight was 3380 pounds; trailer total was 17100 (we have the optional 8K axles on our unit). While we are very stable and the truck handles the load well, we are fully aware that when we go to full time, we will need to upgrade my beloved truck to a DRW. Our floorplan, with a front bedroom and a rear kitchen, allows for some shifting of cargo to move weight to or from the pin if I needed to.

On your floorplan, however, your ability to load any significant weight behind the trailer axles will be minimal (unless you carry something heavy on the rear hitch). Unfortunately, any cargo you place in the interior of your unit is going to add to your pin weight, applying weight on to your truck. By the time you load passengers, anything in the bed, etc I think you will find yourself maxxed out on weight on your rear axle/tires. I would start by weighing your truck front and rear axles, with your hitch installed, and compare the number to the rating you quoted above. This will help with your decision. When your unit shows up, it should include a "birth certificate" with axle, hitch, total and side to side weights as it left the GD factory. These will be your real baseline weights to consider, with the equipment YOUR trailer was built with. Anything you add from that point on will increase those numbers.

Good luck, and safe travels!

Dave

Thank you everyone for the warm welcome! We appreciate your insight and honesty.

JRKJR
I pulled it with a 2017 GMC SRW all over the country but I upgraded the suspension and tires.


What upgrades did you do to the suspension? Air bags? Did you add heavy ply tires?

DarnDave
I have one of the new pullrite lightweight steel hitches mounted to a curt rail adapter in a B&W underbed gooseneck platform. Hitch and adapter about 160 pounds.

We also have the B&W underbed gooseneck platform. We are considering buying the B& W companion weighing 150 lbs.

Why did you choose that combination?


I have added Timbren auxiliary rubber springs (which work great) to the truck.

That is a great recommendation. Thank you.

QuinnCoach , I chose that because I already had all but the hitch itself. On last fiver, I had a Demco autoslide hitch, which by itself, weighed about 300 pounds. I needed to get weight out of the truck bed (for this trailer) so just swapping the hitch took about 240 pounds out of the bed. Looked at the Anderson, but it is made of welded aluminum, and requires safety chains. The pullrite is steel and does not require the chains. Also has built in front to rear adjustability for cab clearance/weight distribution. It works well, but not sure I would buy it again. Very easy to hook up, just different than what I am used to. If I had a longbed, I would look at the companion, or the traditional pullrite (I like the jaw and release design).

You won't go wrong with that hitch, as it is very stout and well made. My cousin has that hitch installed as you say, in his 15 Chevy duallie, towing a 19K toyhauler. He says it is easy to install and remove.

QuinnCoach DarnDave

Dave, I do not think Andersen is making the AL version any longer
Quinncoach, There are designs for using bent and welded tubing connections as Andersen does, however I am not a fan of that design method. Also note that the Pullrite version uses a bent hoop, miter cut ends, and the tubes have plates between them which increases strength dramatically. If I had to choose, Pullrite. This is my OPINION.