Good morning (at least it is right now!) and welcome to the Grand Design Owners' (Technical) Forum. Before I forget, please read the New Members thread when you get a chance--it will point out a few ways to get the most from your time here on the forum: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

I can't answer your specific question on the XLS24MPR as the moderators do not have this level of detailed information. A call to Grand Design Customer Service is probably the best avenue to get this information. Have your VIN handy as they'll need it.

Besides the thickness of the floor, there could be trailer components mounted under the floor, so if you proceed be very careful to ensure the underside is clear of obstructions (where the chock hardware is being inserted).

I own a 2006 Honda Goldwing and haul it in the back of my F-350 DRW while towing my 315RLTS. I use a Condor Pit Stop/Trailer Stop chock. I've found there's no need to secure the chock itself to the LoadAll ramp. Once the bike is in the chock and the bike tied down to anchor points the chock doesn't move.





If I might recommend an alternative approach, consider inspecting how the OEM tie-down points are mounted into the floor and using a chock that doesn't require mounting. Your bike must be a big cruiser like mine to weigh 900lbs--there will be a significant amount of g forces acting on the bike (in all directions) when it's loaded in the rear of that trailer going down the road. I'd ensure those tie down points are strong.

Two more points to consider--your tongue weight will fluctuate considerably with (and without) the bike in the trailer. Do a search here for "Sherline" and you'll find a lot threads with that scale in it and related information. Knowing the trailer's tongue weight and it's effect on towing is not something to be learned through experience.

Sorry if I've overloaded with info on this first response.

Howard

2012 Goldwing. Thanks for the information. The stand does have large eye bolts to tie to. First time towing and was looking to extra secure for those g- forces.

Do you have experience hauling the bike or are you new to the process? If I can offer an tips on the process or equipment let me know.

I use a WheelLock chock for my Wing. My first attempt at using it was almost a disaster. I found that I'm not good enough at comming up the ramp and into the garage to hit the chock square on, in fact most of the time I can't even see the chock until after I start up the ramp, and I hit the edge of the chock. I didn't bump the chock very hard but hard enough to have some cosmetic repairs to make. Since then I pull the Wing into the garage and then set the chock in line and tight to the seperating wall between the garage and the living space. I then push the Wing into the chock and lock it in place. I use the chock just to hold the Wing upright while I strap it down wth four crossing ratchet straps.

Wow--I like that! Thanks for the post.

New to RV, helped load bikes before with friends and
co-workers but new to towing my own. Thanks for the chock information.

Jskeagle
If I haven't said so before, Welcome to the forum!! We have a 1995 'Wing that had an anti-freeze leak that I have been chasing since 2014, but that's a loooong story for another forum.

JBill9694 would putting two taped striped pieces of tape about 12 inches apart from the centerline be an option with a 12" wide strip of tread anti-slip tape in the centerline narrowed at the chock? When we bought our Class C in 2017 (first RV) our original intent was a TH fifth wheel, but a salesman who wouldn't make a 3 minute phone call and Thor having the perfect ( in every way, including inculding build quality) resulted in our first purchase. A TH may still be an option later, but I have always kept my ideas for a TH including a winch and E-Trac in the back of my mind.

ThePowells , A friend of ours with a different brand of toyhauler can successfully pull two motorcycles into his garage and hit the chocks dead on. He typically tilts the back of his fiver downward so that he can see the chocks and has his DW help him get lined up. I asked him about tape or some other type of guides and he feels that his system works best for him. I'm just not that good and really don't see the need to take the risk. The opening on the chock is just slightly wider than the front tire and so if I'm off to one side or slightly skewed I bump the chock forward. Remember this is after powering up the ramp and if I don't get on the brake quickly enough that bump can impart quite a force to the chock which has to go somewhere. For me it is much safer to pull the motorcycle into the garage and then position the chock in front of my front tire.

That said, I do have land marks on the separating wall between the garage and living area that I use to get lined up and close to the same place every time, and there is getting to be a good trail on the ramp from previous times I've gone up the ramp and then backed down with the front brake applied. This trail, by the way also seems to be improving friction on the back tire when pulling into the garage, which means that I can power up at a slower, safer speed.

One thing I think I should elaborate on from post #8. I wrote that I put the chock tight to the separating wall. This is not completely true in that I do have some padding between the chock and the wall to help prevent any scratching, but the chock is still as tight as I can get it to the wall. When braking the motorcycle while have some forward momentum and if there is some stretch in the straps then this force is relayed to the chock and then to wall. I'm comfortable that the wall can resist this force in all but the most drastic of braking/front impact situations in which case I will probably have more to worry about than that wall. If I could not put the chock tight to the wall then I would be looking at some method of securing the chock down. Not to just the garage floor but to the trailer frame.