2600RB Entry and Baggage lock key issues.

[Imagine_Nation]

Has anyone experienced a problem inserting their keys into either the entry door or baggage doors? Our 2600RB entry door lock failed while they were conducting our walk-thru at the dealer. The small interior cover recessed inside the keyhole shifted to the side and would not allow the key to be inserted. I ordered a combo lock from RVLock as a replacement and I am happy with that, but now the baggage pass-through doors are becoming temperamental and making it difficult to insert our keys, as in not at all today. We are located in Central Oregon and have been experiencing cold weather lately which gets down to around 25 degrees F at night and 35 degrees F during the day. I can understand how that can affect the lock operation, but that's a little discouraging if that's the cause. The RVLock combo lock also has manual activation with keys and it works fine at our temperatures. RVLock sells a compatible manual replacement for our baggage doors as well, so I guess I have that option. I am totally prepared for taking care of miscellaneous repairs going forward, and I am already expecting that from decades of previous RV experience. I am just a little bummed to have to make these kinds of purchases so early on. We picked up our 2021 Imagine 2600RB just a couple of weeks ago. Anyone had to deal with anything similar?

BTW, I don't want to sound like I am ragging on Grand Design. We love our Imagine 2600RB and spent a considerable amount of time homing in on that exact model and feeling confident in Grand Design's reputation. As you can tell by our handle, Imagine Nation, we are proud owners.

[JBill9694]

I've got to ask if you use a dry lubricant (graphite) or wet to maintain your locks? I started out with wet (silicone spray) because I was spraying my jacks and was too lazy to make a second trim around the trailer. First November (and only November) in SD with below freezing temps and blowing snow and sleet and had similar problems. Even had the bolt freeze in place. Now a monthly dose of graphite through the key slot and no more problems despite more freezing temps.

[Imagine_Nation]

Hello John:

Thanks for the suggestion. I am sure that this would be good practice on a recurring basis no matter what. The frustrating thing is at this point I can't even get spray into the lock because the little internal recessed cover won't budge. Yesterday we got up to a nice 40 degrees and even tried a hair dryer, but no success. As I mentioned in the opening thread, the new RVLock keyless entry lock works perfectly with it's manual keys, and it is a similar lock mechanism with the little chrome recessed interior cover. I think I may have to resort to replacing them with the RVLock baggage door locks to ensure functionality. We are at home right now so it's not a huge deal, but if I was on the road I would be calling a locksmith to gain access to all of our storage. I can't help but wonder if it is a Covid issue related to the lack of availability of certain components.

In any case, thank you John. I had to smile when you described your weather as it brought back memories of my Mother's description of SD winters growing up on the farm. Her language was a little more colorful though.

See you on the road,

[JBill9694]

Wow, sorry to hear that using the hair dryer on the key hole didn't help with the dust cover. Other than the somewhat risky procedure of trying to force the cover to the side with a small screwdriver (could end up bending the dust cover) I'm fresh out of ideas.

I'm sure I've used some of the same language that your mother used to describe SD winters, maybe even more so being a transplant from southern AZ.

[Jlawles2]

Even when using a forced heat source like the hair drier, it can take a lot longer to heat up any ice or other solidified liquids in the lock. You may also need to block wind while trying to heat the lock to help get enough heat in there for it to release. Just because its warm to the touch does not mean that solidified liquids are melted. It may take a lot longer and surface temp a lot warmer than you think.

If you can get the door open and remove the lock, try bringing it inside for a day or so to let it "normalize". I suggest putting it on something in case the liquid decides to vacate the lock.

Even then, some liquids solidify at a lower temp than what it takes to thaw them. You may try using a low temperature window washer solution or in an extreme case something like ether (be cautious of chemicals on the wall finish) in case what you have is actually a dehydrated lubricant. Once you do get it to work, I would remove the lock cylinder (if possible) and clean with liberal amounts of brake cleaner or other suitable chemical, then dry with compressed air, and leave in a warm location for a couple of days to allow the moisture to evaporate. After all of that, then go for the graphite lock lubricants. Dry is always preferred for locks as liquids tend to get thick or become solids.

[vagabond]

Imagine Nation, I have similar issues with the cubby locks, already failing after only 3 weeks owning our 200MK, and we're currently in AZ with no cold. I checked out RVLock as you suggested, but will need to cut the door panel so they fit; my current locks are cabinet locks, not slam latches, so the mounting hole is approx 3/4" round. Did you do yours yet and any suggestion on that hole cutout?

Paul & Linda
Transcend 200MK
2020 F-150 4wd CrewCab 3.5 Ecoboost
Andersen equalizer

[Imagine_Nation]

Hello There:

I have only replaced the entry door lock so far and the RVLock combo lock was a direct replacement (no hole modification needed). It's expensive, but it's nice to just touch 4 numbers or use the key fob and hear the audible tones as the lock actuates. It also has manual key lock mechanisms for the door and deadbolt (good for when the batteries finally fail) and they have worked flawlessly during the same weather conditions where the baggage locks failed. RVLock also has direct replacement baggage slam locks for our 2600RB so I don't need to modify our openings.

Sounds like you might have a bit of a project in front of you to convert to slam locks. They are available for 2 door thickness ranges so I think you could find something to work as far as modifying the cutout but you would also need to modify the strike area. You have to have a strike box to mate with the latch bolt coming out of the bottom of the new lock assembly. I have never looked closely at a 200MK door so I'm not really sure what you might be up against. The other thing would be your side thumb latches and whether or not you want to keep them. Kind of triple redundancy going on there but removing them creates all new problems.

Keep me posted on what you decide doing. At least it sounds like you are enjoying some warm AZ temperatures during your project.

Safe travels.

[howson]

... my current locks are cabinet locks, not slam latches, so the mounting hole is approx 3/4" round. Did you do yours yet and any suggestion on that hole cutout?

I installed an RVLock on my 315's underbed baggage door. Check out this thread for how I did it: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...e-baggage-door

[Imagine_Nation]

Nice job Howard!

Well, there you go Paul. Cutout for lock and strike plate looks pretty straight forward. Howard even kept the side thumb latches and that keeps it looking good (keeps the door nice and flat too).

Like I mentioned earlier, the only thing to pay attention to at this point is the door thickness. If you go with RVLock they specify the 2 ranges as less than 3/4" or greater than 3/4".

Post pics when you are done.