Another "newbi" to GD 2021 Imagine 2600RB and somewhat new to TT camping

[Nailbender]

We like most everything about this TT, although right out of the box we have had electrical problems. We went to a local lake/TT park an hour and 1/2 away for our first outing and plugged in. We discovered while there that the Microwave wasn't working, completely dead. We thought everything else was working and it was since we were connected to shore power and had a good charge on our auxiliary batteries. We headed home and parked the trailer next to the house to unload, clean out and re-gear for a trip out again (about a week later) but did not plug in for few days.

We unfortunately did not flip the DC disconnect on the batteries. When we plugged in to shore power the AC wouldn't start. After checking multiple areas we discovered the (2) 6 volt batteries (wired in series) we completely discharged. We managed to get the batteries back on line enough to get the AC started so we could get inside where it would be cool and discovered the the converter wasn't working either.

We have called the dealership and will be taking the trailer back (about 3 hours) to have the microwave and converter replaced. There also appears to be possibly an issue with the GFCI Receptacle.

So, we are not sure what got us, but we do have issues. My husband is fairly technical (home remodeler, all areas) and has tested all receptacles and found that the GFCI and the outdoor receptacle just outside the kitchen are the only two that are were not working correctly. We only find one that has a "test" button in the kitchen and it was tripping repeatedly, but after opening up and checking the non-functioning receptacle outside the "test" button doesn't trip any longer. "Gremlins"

I guess this little story is part a learning lesson at this point, although I am concerned why the microwave and converter both failed and the issues with the GCFI.

1. Check the battery level in the trailer on a regular basis when disconnected from the vehicle.
2. When not in use, turn the battery disconnect switch to off.

Any other input would be welcome........and we are still excited to continue our future travels in the 2600 RB

[TucsonJim]

Welcome to the forum. We're glad you joined us.

First, before you change the converter, you should check it to see if the fuses have blown. The WFCO brand of converter that your unit is equipped with has two fuses on the side of the converter. Their purpose is to protect the wiring in case someone accidentally reverses the wiring on the batteries for even 1/10th of a second. So if someone was installing the batteries and accidentally put the negative lead on the positive terminal and the positive lead on the negative terminal, the fuses would blow. It is a very common problem. Installers and owners frequently make this mistake. I'm posting a photo of a converter and you can see the fuses on the side. You can see my two blue 35 amp fuses in the photo. Your fuses may be a different size, depending on the size of your inverter.




Regarding the battery shut off. Turning off the disconnect switch will NOT stop a drain on the batteries. Items like your propane detector and stereo memory still draw a small amount of current. It's enough to drain your batteries over a week or two. If you want to shut the drain off completely, you'll need to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Lots of other owners have installed a switch to cut all current flow.

And lastly, regarding your microwave. It may not be the microwave, but the outlet that powers it. If you open a cabinet next to the microwave, you'll probably find the microwave power cord. Unplug it, and then plug in an electrical device you know works such as a small lamp. If the lamp works, the microwave is probably defective. If the lamp does not come on, you may have a circuit breaker tripped, a tripped GFI (unlikely since microwaves are not usually attached to a GFI protected circuit) or a loose connection somewhere in the electrical system.

Jim

[tkhammer]

Jim,

Thank you for your reply. I neglected to say in my original post that we (Phil) checked the fuses with an OHM meter and checked the breakers, all were ok. Also pulled the microwave and checked the receptacle, it was also ok. Thanks for the input on the battery shut off.

Teresa (Nailbender other half)

[ncitro]

Jim,

Thank you for your reply. I neglected to say in my original post that we (Phil) checked the fuses with an OHM meter and checked the breakers, all were ok. Also pulled the microwave and checked the receptacle, it was also ok. Thanks for the input on the battery shut off.

Teresa (Nailbender other half)

Also was possibly a surge or spike or brownout at the campground that took them out. Are you running a surge protector or EMS?

[Nailbender]

Thanks Neil for the reply also. No, we weren't, but you can bet your bottom dollar we will going forward. Any Suggestions as to what might be a good source?

Phil and Teresa

[ncitro]

Thanks Neil for the reply also. No, we weren't, but you can bet your bottom dollar we will going forward. Any Suggestions as to what might be a good source?

Phil and Teresa

There was a discussion on here the other day about that. When I bought mine, the beast was the Progressive Dynamics hard wired issue because it protects you from an issue in green campground as well as the shore cord. There was a owner a few years ago that had a bad shore cord and it killed all his appliances. Twice. Since then another company, I think Surge Guard, makes a device that’s portable and installs at the pedestal (no installation in the rig needed) but protects you from both park power and a bad shore cord. I haven’t used that because it wasn’t outlet when I got mine, but I like the idea.

Mine: Progressive Industries EMSHW50C Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007O6INSE..._8fHhFbS6012QT

I think this is the new portable Surge Guard (hopefully someone else will chime in to confirm): Technology Research Corp 34951 Surge Guard 50A Portable Wireless Surge Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQVL68L..._0gHhFbMV087FY


Edit: this all assumes you’ve got a 50 amp rig. If it’s 30 amp let us know, those are different devices.

[tkhammer]

Thanks Neil. We are running a 30 amp rig

Teresa

[ncitro]

Thanks Neil. We are running a 30 amp rig

Teresa

Okay, here are the 30 amp models:

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-I...5815380&sr=8-3

I think the Surge Guard is a model 34931, but they are back ordered and I am not sure.

[mpking]

I don't have it yet, but this is the one I've ordered:
https://hughesautoformers.com/product/pwd30-epo/
(I didn't buy it from here, but it's the manufacturer's page)



Surge guard and surge protector with built-in Bluetooth connectivity so you can monitor live park power conditions on your smartphone in real time! Get text alerts of dangers before something catastrophic happens. The new EPO (emergency power off) units will automatically SHUT DOWN power if there are dangerous conditions of too high or low voltage, open ground or open neutral as well as more. Unit automatically shuts down power if voltage drops below 104 V or over 132 V. Once power conditions are good and stable for 90 seconds, the unit will turn back on automatically.


I like that it's trackable on the Phone app, and that the surge unit is replaceable (for around $21)

[Cate&Rob]

Note that the latest Surge Guard portable products (both 30A and 50A) are the only ones in the market ( that I know of) to provide protection from “electrical issues inside the RV”. Most EMS units look only at the power supply (upstream) side and not the power feed to the RV (downstream) side.

Not seeing the downstream side is what led to the situation described by Neil in post 6. A broken neutral in the power cord could not be diagnosed by the earlier generation post mounted EMS and caused 240V L1 to L2 to pass through and destroy 120V devices in the RV. This would be less of a concern in a 30A supply because only 120V is present.

Rob

[mpking]

Note that the latest Surge Guard portable products (both 30A and 50A) are the only ones in the market ( that I know of) to provide protection from “electrical issues inside the RV”. Most EMS units look only at the power supply (upstream) side and not the power feed to the RV (downstream) side.

Where do they document that? (I still have a few hours to cancel my order, the WiFi is important to me, but not that important if it's better protection)

[ncitro]

Where do they document that? (I still have a few hours to cancel my order, the WiFi is important to me, but not that important if it's better protection)

Thats a good question. I was looking to link that info to Theresa last night but did not see it anywhere. I was hoping Rob would jump in because I know he was in on the discussion the other day about it. Let me see if I can track it down. I would definitely recommend either a portable device that does downstream protection, or going with hard wired if you are 50 amp given the trouble Poppy had a few years ago.

[ncitro]

Here is the discussion I was thinking of:

https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...urge-protector

[Running from Gnats]

excellent site to check out is Noshockzone.org. Mike Sokol is considered THE expert on RV electrical. He also has a book out on RV electrical, " No~Shock~Zone RV Electrical Safety which is available on Amazon. Excellent source on the electrical systems in your RV. I keep a copy in the owner's folder which came with our 2600RB and refer to it when I need to verify something.

[Tigger1]

Where do they document that? (I still have a few hours to cancel my order, the WiFi is important to me, but not that important if it's better protection)

I just purchased Surge Guard 34931 30a portable unit that has open ground protection for the RV side. Will be using it for first time later this week. Also bought the wireless monitor 40301. Here’s a short 7min video from TechnoRV

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3335kUMln6Y