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**howson** · 12-09-2021, 11:00 AM

Originally posted by Jimmer View Post

I'm mounting a Victron solar charge controller inside of my travel trailer to an exterior wall above the water heater in a very tight space between the drawers and exterior wall in my 2021 Reflection 315RLTS.

"Very tight space" is an understatement!

I'd be very cautious about modifying the exterior wall structure or mounting anything to it. Grand Design is typically very forgiving when it comes to warranty issues, meaning they don't look for ways to get out of fixing things that are their fault, but if a modification causes the issue then it's on the owner.

I don't mean to come across as negative to the idea as presented in the post, just trying to convey a potential risk/result that might not have considered. Informed is empowered, right?

Another thought...where are the batteries? The controller's output should be a close as possible to minimize loss. (Are you sure this is the only location available???)

If the space above the water heater in the closet is the only option, I'd try to figure out a way to incorporate a way to install a sub-structure that uses pocket-hole screws to attach to the existing wood framing visible at the front and rear of the cabinet. Then attach the controller to the new sub-structure. Note that according to Victron's installation guidance that surface should be non-combustible. (Sharp-eyed readers that know my install will note I didn't follow that guidance to the letter...)

Good luck! That is going to be one tight install.

Howard

**Jimmer** · 12-09-2021, 11:28 AM

Originally posted by howson View Post

"Very tight space" is an understatement!

I'd be very cautious about modifying the exterior wall structure or mounting anything to it.

Howard

howson , thanks for the comments and advice. I will take into consideration. Maybe put a piece of sheet metal between the Solar Charger and the wall? The wood burning stove I installed in my house required by building code a piece of sheet metal between the stove and the wooden sub-floor, so the sheet metal will provide some heat protection. Yes, I'll support the solar charger from the bottom like I did with the DC-DC charger. I have 5 Battleborn Batteries in that space. I've been running this setup for the last 5 months, without any temperature issues. This aspect of the project is adding solar.

I have an AC Infinity automatic fan system with a thermocouple in the space to monitor the temperature. Note that I base my install off of a similar install done by the Dry Campers on Youtube on a 315RLTS. If he could make it work in that space and post on youtube about it, I'm comfortable with it.

**Yoda** · 12-09-2021, 01:18 PM

Originally posted by Jimmer View Post

I'm mounting a Victron solar charge controller inside of my travel trailer to an exterior wall above the water heater in a very tight space between the drawers and exterior wall in my 2021 Reflection 315RLTS. (Don't worry, I already have a fan mounted to keep the charge controller cool.) It's the Victron 150/100 and weighs about 10 pounds. Because this space is so narrow, I don't have space to mount a piece of plywood to the wall, and need to mount the charge controller directly to the wall.

I was thinking about using a drill and tap in order to create a threaded hole into the aluminum exterior wall stud. However, my worry is that the aluminum stud/frame in the wall is so thin that it would not be possible to create a strong mounting hole for a machine threaded bolt. I'm thinking it might be better to put an anchor into the stud. (I realize that I will only be able to have one side of the charge controller in a stud, and will make a different type of support for the other side of the charge controller).

I welcome any thoughts or experiences people may have on this issue.

Howard is very correct. I too suggest a better more accessible place where you can see and get at the unit close to your batterys.

I added aluminum plate behind all my components. HD should have what you need (1/8 to 3/16). As for secure mounting you can put double faced tape on the back of the aluminum plate that is against the wall along with fasteners. Just be aware it will pull the wall covering off if ever removed. With the plate in place good SS sheet metal screws should work for the MPPT.

Now to mount the plate I suggest these for the exterior wall. They are a bit tough to work into the exterior foam behind the cover luan, but do work well. I pre-drilled a hole slightly smaller than recommended and pushed in with my finger, then expanded before mounting the item to it to be sure it pulled tight.

Hope this helps

Keith

**howson** · 12-09-2021, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by Jimmer View Post

Note that I base my install off of a similar install done by the Dry Campers on Youtube on a 315RLTS.

WOW! That's an incredible install in a super compact space.

Did you shorten the drawers or did your trailer come that way? Maybe the OEM drawers don't go all the way to the rear of the cabinet space and I never realized it?

It's been awhile since I looked, but looking at old video it doesn't appear I have as much space in that same area. It looks like you either have a Suburban or Furrion water heater (vs the Dometic/Atwood in mine) so perhaps there's enough of a size difference that gave you that extra room?

**familytruckster4** · 12-10-2021, 09:05 AM

If you can utilize an aluminum stud I would use a type F thread cutting screw for that, simple and very strong. The other 2 holes I would use short sheet metal screws into the luan, along with some 2 sided tape on the back. No way thats coming off after all that. If you are concerned about the ability to remove it you could forgo the 2 sided tape.

**Jimmer** · 12-10-2021, 12:05 PM

Originally posted by howson View Post

WOW! That's an incredible install in a super compact space.

Did you shorten the drawers or did your trailer come that way? Maybe the OEM drawers don't go all the way to the rear of the cabinet space and I never realized it?

It's been awhile since I looked, but looking at old video it doesn't appear I have as much space in that same area. It looks like you either have a Suburban or Furrion water heater (vs the Dometic/Atwood in mine) so perhaps there's enough of a size difference that gave you that extra room?

I did not shorten the drawers (although I did have to reduce the height of a drawer in the kitchen area to get the newer Multiplus II to fit.) It was actually a miserable job due to the super tight space and the use of 4/0 wire for the 5 Battleborn Batteries. It was like learning to play Tetris. Things were built on top of each other, and there were many times when I realized working on an upper level that the lower level would have to be changed, so everything had to come out. The YouTube video from the Dry Campers shows they basically did the same thing. The different water heater changes the position of the batteries, but they fit in 5, just like me using the same water heater you have. howson I think you have the same space. The wooden studs against the shower had to be cut out, and re-framed.

I got the solar charger mounted last night. Notice the automatic fan right above it. Thanks, familytruckster4 , I used 5 of those thread cutting screws on the right side of the charger, and 5 sheet metal screws into the left side of the charger without any type of anchor. The right side of the charger is supported by the solid plastic portion of the busbar, and the left side of the charger is supported by a piece of Teflon that is resting on the 60 amp DC-DC charger. I still have install/clean up the wiring for the solar charger.

**TravelHabit** · 12-11-2021, 08:48 PM

I came across a similar issue in my inverter-charger installation. My concern is not so much about tapping into the exterior wall as much as the concern that while in travel there are lateral and vertical forces that will be applied to the luan in such a situation. I found it to be too thin and flexible. Perhaps with one certain installation to a stud one might be OK but I'd still be concerned about movement while driving. Think luan vibrating in and out on the non stud-side. Like bending a paper clip many times it is possible this could cause an issue in the long run.

The only solution I came up was to spread the load with a frame attached to the luan. Some photos might help. First note that my installation is in the corner where the exterior wall and the wall to the master bedroom meet. For access I cut a hole, moved some HVAC routing, and put in an access door from the master bedroom side:

In this space I created a flat frame on the exterior wall which is screwed at several diverse locations (and also attached to the bedroom wall corner on the right). This allowed me to spread the DC-DC converter weight (and eventually a possible solar converter).

I should add that, through some luck, this was made much stronger by attaching to the inverter bracket I constructed (pure coincidence).

Which itself was attached to the floor and upper counter for rigidity and stability (the Victron inverter-charger is very heavy).

I guess one takeaway message from all this is that I'm just paranoid. I guess I'm just saying to be very careful of any attachment of an unsupported weight directly to the luan. If space/depth is an issue, even adding a thin sheet of plywood glued/attached to the luan before putting anchor bolts in would be a great benefit. That way you can at least spread the load over a larger luan area to make it more rigid.

Earl

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