Morryde tray screws?

[Gilligan]

Hello! I have a 72" X 20" Morryde tray for the basement of our brand new 2022 Reflection 150 series 295RL on the way from E Trailer, the directions say to screw the frame down in multiple locations, is there a safe / unsafe zone where I can / can't drill screw it down to the basement floor? I sure dont want to punch a hole into a tank or wiring! Thank you for your advice!

[TucsonJim]

Good morning Gilligan, and welcome to the forum. There are two tanks right under the basement floor on the 295RL. I'd suggest you use screws that only penetrate the OSB floor by no more than 1/2" to 5/8". I'd also add construction adhesive between the brackets and the floor, but this will become a permanent configuration if you do so.

Jim

[Country Campers]

You could also drop the coroplast to see exactly where to use the bolts or screws. I would prefer a bolt thru the OSB with a washer on the bottom for better holding than just a screw into the OSB. I home built a small slide for my grill and only have the screws into the OSB, it is secure but not like I would prefer it. I have been thinking of a Moryde slide or a better home built slide and having thru bolts for better mounting. Having the 72" slide you may be able to bolt it right to the frame edge found right under the inside plastic storage bins on each side of the pass thru storage and not have a need for bolts in the center.
Please post what you end up doing as this would be helpful for others.

Brian

[Popga]

I installed a MorRyde tray in pass thru using 3/4" SS screws. I drilled a pilot hole to prevent shipping out the hole. It is solid as a rock. I've removed it several times to make modifications (removed the cross supports so I can stow my portable solar panels underneath and removed the slide stop so it will extend 80%...I'm no where near the weight capacity and have had no issues, but if you are loading heavy, use caution). I absolutely love the tray, and have no issues screwing it directly to floor.

[Popga]

Let me correct myself....I moved the slide stop back for extra extension. 60% wasn't enough for me.


Erik

[ncitro]

I have the one that slides out either side 80%. With that much cantelever, I wanted it well secured so I used large self tapping screws into the frame on the ends and then short large diameter screws into the OSB as suggested. I did have to remove the outer bearings while driving in the outer screws but it's well worth it for the strength.

[Gilligan]

Thank You all so much for your replies! I would rather not make the frame permanent as the wall towards the rear has to swing out to reveal the spaghetti of wires and plumbing servicing, if the subfloor is just OSB I may look into tapping the edges so I could use machine bolts that won't tear out the OSB and be removeable and replaceable. but the shipping manifest shows that it weighs 230 LBS!!! I sure HOPE a lot of that weight is the shipping Pallet!! Or maybe come up with an idea that will allow the false wall to swing out over the top or the tray. Does anybody have any experience with what I am typing about?...SHOULD be here on Monday unless it remains snowed in and stuck in Kansas City!

[ncitro]

Thank You all so much for your replies! I would rather not make the frame permanent as the wall towards the rear has to swing out to reveal the spaghetti of wires and plumbing servicing, if the subfloor is just OSB I may look into tapping the edges so I could use machine bolts that won't tear out the OSB and be removeable and replaceable. but the shipping manifest shows that it weighs 230 LBS!!! I sure HOPE a lot of that weight is the shipping Pallet!! Or maybe come up with an idea that will allow the false wall to swing out over the top or the tray. Does anybody have any experience with what I am typing about?...SHOULD be here on Monday unless it remains snowed in and stuck in Kansas City!

My unit was narrow enough (to be able to pull out from either side) that the side wall can still be removed.

[ncitro]

Here's a photo of mine for reference.

[Jlawles2]

Gilligan ncitro Looking at Neil's picture, what is really needed is something to hold the unit down. This can be accomplished by going UP instead of down. A little modification to the slide rails and some flat head machine screws to an angle or C channel bracket up to the framing above will accomplish this.

As for nuts and bolts, I have become a fan of T-nuts ( https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Dropper-...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== ) which will allow for removal of the bolts later without having to drop the under belly. If worried about them falling out, silicone on the shank will hold them in place.

[Popga]

230# seems a bit excessive. Seems like they said that for mine also, but I was able to lift it and install it with no help. If you are talking about spaghetti of wiring on the front cap side, I carefully pried off the panels which, for some reason were nailed in. I replaced the nails with screws and made sure the lowest screw I put in was above the highest part of the tray when unloaded, allowing removal of the panels without removing the tray.

Erik

[ThePowells]

Gilligan Welcome to the family and the forum!