What problems when switching your absorption style refrigerator to a residential

[Deroc]

I have a 2022 Solitude 378MBS and would like to swap out the Norcold 2118 for a Whirlpool Model WRQA59CNKZ or Haier Model QHE16HYPFS 4 door residential refrigerator. I saw on a previous post for a different year/model camper (https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...a-2019-315rlts) that the slide floor had sagged to the point where it tore the flooring under the slide when it was extended/retracted. Before I get started with this mod I'd like to hear from other Solitude 378MBS owners who have gone through this process. What were the problems you encountered and the solutions when making the switch from an absorption style to a residential. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[TucsonJim]

Hopefully someone with related experience will weigh in soon. In the mean time you might also want to check out some of the new 12V refrigerators. We have a '24 Solitude with a 20 cubic foot Furrion refrigerator that we really like.

Jim

[acoleman43]

I have a 2022 Solitude 378MBS and would like to swap out the Norcold 2118 for a Whirlpool Model WRQA59CNKZ or Haier Model QHE16HYPFS 4 door residential refrigerator. I saw on a previous post for a different year/model camper (https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...a-2019-315rlts) that the slide floor had sagged to the point where it tore the flooring under the slide when it was extended/retracted. Before I get started with this mod I'd like to hear from other Solitude 378MBS owners who have gone through this process. What were the problems you encountered and the solutions when making the switch from an absorption style to a residential. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I would say size difference. You may have to modify space (larger or smaller). Also, you may have difficulty getting the old out through the RV door and new in through the RV door. Make sure door swing will work.

As far as electrical, you may want a separate power switch or circuit just for the fridge as a residential fridge does not come with a power switch. I'm assuming power consumption is very close to existing fridge, so wiring and circuit are likely sized correctly.

[howson]

Deroc

As you noted from my thread, the Haier does cause my floor to sag. The reason (for those who haven't read the linked thread in your post) is I took out the support base the Dometic sat on. While the two units weigh the same, the Haier not sitting on the support base is ultimately why I have the issue. (The floor is obviously not meant to directly support the weight of the refrigerator.)

While my DW absolutely loves the Haier, if I had to do it over again I'd find a replacement that fit in the OEM-provided space, meaning I'd leave the bottom (base) support structure intact.

Please post what you end up doing (with pictures).

Howard

[ncitro]

Deroc I replaced mine with a GE (and Samsung before that but it used too much power). I love the space and that it filters water and makes ice. I had no difficulties getting the old out through the door and the new in (had to remove the doors). My fridge is in my slide at the end, by itself so I removed the cabinet completely and it sits on its own now. I reinforced the floor with plywood under it to help distribute the weight, and as the slide is coming in I put a board between the slide floor and the rig floor to help support the weight. I have had no issues with sagging for going on three years with this method.

[TribForce]

If you don't plan to go off-grid the residential frig is the way to go. As another option, JC Refrigeration does absorption to 12V conversions. You can either buy the kit and do it yourself or take your rig there and they will do it. No mods to the slide needed and no sagging issues.

[ncitro]

I frequently dry camp, you just need enough solar or batteries to last through your window. 12V is definitely more efficient than going through the inverter, but after having the features of a full residential "home" fridge I am not sure we would give it up.

The conversions are well reviewed, the only problem there is you do not gain any space inside the fridge, which to my mind is a huge benefit.

[TribForce]

ncitro I hear you. When my frig is too large I waste a lot of food. If I cant see stuff I forget about it. My Norcold 1210 Is just about the right size. If I don't upgrade my camper soon I will upgrade the frig mechanism to a 12V set up.

[ncitro]

My son is 5, and we frequently travel with my in laws (their rig has a smaller fridge) so we carry a lot of food. Definitely takes management to keep track of whats in there to minimize waste though.

[Jims94vmx]

My Frigidaire 13.9 sips power. I actually raised the original shelf the old fridge sat on by 2". the front wheels were sticking out past the original shelf. Wife wanted a little higher.

Used 2x3 and half inch plywood to put shelf on top of shelf. Cut plywood to come out slightly for wheels.

Keeping it in place took some trial and a little error. Then trimming it to make it look like it came from factory.

Lost 130 lbs and gained 2cf more space. Also energy star rated.

[TribForce]

My Frigidaire 13.9 sips power. I actually raised the original shelf the old fridge sat on by 2". the front wheels were sticking out past the original shelf. Wife wanted a little higher.

Used 2x3 and half inch plywood to put shelf on top of shelf. Cut plywood to come out slightly for wheels.

Keeping it in place took some trial and a little error. Then trimming it to make it look like it came from factory.

Lost 130 lbs and gained 2cf more space. Also energy star rated.

I am assuming that is a residential frig? I was under the impression that they were very inefficient do to the need to run through the inverter.

[ncitro]

Mine is pretty good on power until it goes into defrost (runs an electric heating element) but thats only every few days and is worth it to keep the frost down. I think mine is an 18 or 20 cuft, and draws about 2 amps (AC) when the compressor is running.

[TribForce]

Mine is pretty good on power until it goes into defrost (runs an electric heating element) but thats only every few days and is worth it to keep the frost down. I think mine is an 18 or 20 cuft, and draws about 2 amps (AC) when the compressor is running.

That must pull about 20A from the batteries? (not counting defrost) That is pretty good. My absorption frig running on 120VAC pulls about 35ADC or more through the inverter. The research I have done shows 12VDC units run on less than 10ADC and some as low as 5ADC. This is very appealing to me as we plan to do a lot of boondocking.

[ncitro]

That must pull about 20A from the batteries? (not counting defrost) That is pretty good. My absorption frig running on 120VAC pulls about 35ADC or more through the inverter. The research I have done shows 12VDC units run on less than 10ADC and some as low as 5VDC. This is very appealing to me as we plan to do a lot of boondocking.

Thats right, the Victron inverter is pretty efficient, so I see around 20A draw from it when its running. When it goes into defrost its closer to 50. The Samsung I put in there at first drew closer to 50A (through the inverter) just for the compressor (it lives in my garage now). Howard ran his absorption for a bit through his inverter until he swapped it for a residential and that draw seems similiar to his. I think I have also heard the 12v units draw about half of the 120v residential units as well (depending on size) so your experience seems about par for the course.

We also do a ton of boondocking, I have found the DC to DC converter has made the biggest difference, on drive days we always get to our destination at 100%, even if we have dinner going in the crock pot while driving. While we are stationary as long as we are in the sun our 1200 watts of solar keeps up, if its late fall (bad angle) or wooded or cloudy then we can get two days before we dig out the generator.

[Jims94vmx]

I see around 125w when fridge is running. Seems to be 20 min it ramps up, then ramps down for 15 minutes then rinse and repeat. That wattage includes inverter and any other parasitic load.

Based on my projections I can get about 25 to 30 hours on 1 100a battery. Using solar to offset recovers fast. My "fridge" circuit includes my tv residential lamp, surround sound with sub and wireless battery charger. I am currently running with the circuit off so ats is running it off batteries. so 24 hours with daytime charging is about 2kwh to get back to float. 720w solar btw. this includes propane furnace that has been running a lot last few days and lights.

Hope this makes sense. This morning batteries (2 100a) were down to 45%.