Since October 2023 till January 9th, we have put our refrigerator on propane mode for the evenings to keep the electricity bill down for my son. The 9th we left CA for AZ and the refrigerator wouldn't go on propane. The frig just kept beeping. Its now the 10th and it still won't go onto propane and run. I have checked the propane connection and and undid the T going to the propane hose at the back (outside) area of the frig. There is propane present at the T. The striker clicks 8-9 times when you put the frig on gas but the gas never comes on. What do I need to replace of fix???
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dsmall54
I have moved your post to the Appliance Channel, if you want to make an Intro please do so in the Introduction Channel.
Most times the best way to check for propane at the fridge is to light a stove burner. This ensures that propane is present at the stove which is usually close to the fridge. Are you sure that you have adequate propane in the tanks?
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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dsmall54 -- also helps if we knew the year and model of your GDRV. If you'll take a moment to fill out your signature line (see the Welcome Letter linked off the home page for info) you won't have to repeat that info every time you post.
HowardForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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dsmall54
The refrigerator's propane connection on your 310GK is "T'd" off of the main line at the end. One side goes to the range and other to the refrigerator.
What an RV technician (or other individual who is trained, qualified, and licensed to work on propane equipment) will likely do is put a "T" where the 1/4" I.D. line connects to the fridge. The tech will then connect a device called a manometer to monitor the pressure. Pressure is measured (for propane) in W.C. which means water column.
When the fridge is attempting to light, there should be a minimum pressure at the input to the refrigerator (as shown in the pic below). If it's low, there could be contamination in the line going from the fridge back to the main distribution line. Another possibility (though unlikely given everything else works) is a failing two-stage regulator valve. Could be a pinched line, too.
If the pressure at the refrigerator is good, then the fault is in the refrigerator itself. As TedS has already mentioned, the next step is checking to see if the gas solenoid is being commanded on and if the gas being output from that regulator at the right pressure, too. (Usually a bit more difficult to get a tool on it to measure.)
If all that checks out, the issue could be the igniter itself or the igniter board. The manual has a decent list.
The Service Manual for the fridge is here: https://www.arprv.com/pdf/Norcold-Ma...olarMax_SM.pdf The snip below is from page 15.
HowardForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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You need to verify
1. there is actually propane there at the fridge.
2. if there is propane, check the operation of the gas solenoid.
But as a first move it is never a bad idea to remove all power from the appliance, power back up and try again.2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
2021 303RLS
Electricians were created because engineers need heroes too...
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