Grounding and DC Returns

[howson]

Right! Very sorry for not clarifying but the lynx will be grounded via 4/0 wire from the center lug to a chassis ground. In that instance my thinking is correct?

Why 4/0 from the Lynx to the frame? The OEM -12vDC return wire in your trailer was likely 6 gauge bolted to the frame, as that's likely the size of the OEM +12vDC (red) wire feeding the Power Distribution Panel.

The black 4/0 in your picture above should go from the battery side of the shunt to the negative post on the battery. (I assume you're prepping for an inverter somewhere down the road.) The red wire, obviously, to the positive battery terminal.

Let me put it another way: all I did with the OEM-installed 12vDC component wiring in my camper was move the existing wiring from where GD hooked it up to the new location (in your case this would be the Lynx).

The diagram should answer all my questions, so I'll refrain from posting until I get a chance to review it.

Howard

[Yoda]

Very glad I found this thread… but for my clarity can someone confirm the following?

I am not doing a multiplus just yet. I sent my WFCO converter off to get reflashed for lithium. My current understanding is that if I connect everything to the lynx (negative and positive) including the 12v panel then I can get rid of all the bare copper grounds from converter, panel and solar charger and everything will be grounded through the Victron lynx….

I am a bit confused. All of the bare copper grounds on my trailer are 120V. All 12V grounds (negative returns) are white wire. You want to leave the 120V side alone and retain those bare copper grounds. Given the shear number of negative returns I would suggest a separate negative bus bar that is tied to the Lynx and chassis ground.
Keith

[AAMAFIGHTER]

Ok. So what I have found while looking through my current wiring is that the Solar charger is connected via Positive wire to the positive side of the battery, the negative wire to the frame and also via bare copper ground wire to a separate place on the frame. The converter is connected via positive and negative to the panel (12v Side) and bare copper wire to the frame. It is also plugged into the outlet at the back of the panel obviously. I have tried to represent what I am talking about in the diagrams. The first one is what I am seeing on my trailer to include the bare copper wire to the frame from the solar charger and converter. The second diagram is the proposed new set up with lithium batteries, BMV-712 and Lynx. Also moving the converter connections to the lynx instead of the 12v panel. It will still be plugged in the back of the panel via an extension cord so I can move it to the passthrough storage bay where I'm installing everything else.

Sorry it took so long. I have been very busy at work, but thank you for the help.

[Country Campers]

AAMAFIGHTER

I think that looks good. Consider putting disconnects between the battery and the Lynx, between the solar panels and the solar controller, between the solar controller and the Lynx, you could add one between the Lynx and the power panel if you want, might be handy. These disconnects will be nice when you need to isolate, especially for the solar controller. These do not need to be anything exciting, these are what I have used Amazon.com: Ampper Battery Switch, 12-48 V Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (On/Off) : Automotive. If you are going big battery power, 300 amp hours or more you may want a larger disconnect for that.

Brian

[AAMAFIGHTER]

I should've put that on there. I was trying to keep the diagram simple, but I have a disconnect and a mega fuse between the lynx and the battery. I'm trying to set it up for an easy install of a Multiplus later.

[howson]

AAMAFIGHTER

I don't understand why you'd run the + and -12vDC from the converter to the Lynx. The converter in your Imagine 2800BH is currently (physically) very close to the Power Distribution Panel (PDP) and is wired appropriately to the PDP. What is there to gain from changing the current configuration? I can't see a performance gain by changing the wiring versus leaving it in the OEM configuration.

You didn't ask for it...but if you don't mind my .02 there's a lot more bang for your money by replacing the Furrion solar charger and Furrion battery monitor with a Victron SmartSolar controller and a Victron SmartShunt. The VictronConnect app is fantastic. So skip the Lynx for now--you don't need it.

If / when you upgrade to a Multiplus there will be a requirement to significantly upgrade the DC wiring and maybe use the Lynx Distributor. There are other less expensive options. (And this is coming from a over-the-top Victron fanboy.)

Howard

[AAMAFIGHTER]

howson


yeah you are probably right. I think I’m over killing it with the converter. My thought was to get things as ready as possible for the multiplus so I’d just have to “plug it in” essentially. I like the thought about the converter. I’ll leave it where it’s at.

As for the Victron solar charger that is also in the works to change.

I’m installing the Lynx basically because I have it and can’t return it. I also have all the wiring I need from explorist.life from another project I did and didn’t use either.

I do already have the BMV-712 which I’ll be installing. So except for the converter how’s the wiring look? Also, I found it very strange that the solar charger has negative, positive and a bare copper ground wired from it. Is that supposed to be like that?

[Yoda]

Ok. So what I have found while looking through my current wiring is that the Solar charger is connected via Positive wire to the positive side of the battery, the negative wire to the frame and also via bare copper ground wire to a separate place on the frame. The converter is connected via positive and negative to the panel (12v Side) and bare copper wire to the frame. It is also plugged into the outlet at the back of the panel obviously. I have tried to represent what I am talking about in the diagrams. The first one is what I am seeing on my trailer to include the bare copper wire to the frame from the solar charger and converter. The second diagram is the proposed new set up with lithium batteries, BMV-712 and Lynx. Also moving the converter connections to the lynx instead of the 12v panel. It will still be plugged in the back of the panel via an extension cord so I can move it to the passthrough storage bay where I'm installing everything else.

Sorry it took so long. I have been very busy at work, but thank you for the help.

One thing that is missing from your drawing is the battery power connection to the factory buss bar that powers a lot of things on the trailer, including sending power to the 12V side of the distribution panel, usually through the factory disconnect switch. Other items are powered there that are not powered any other way.

[ncitro]

AAMAFIGHTER It's common to have an equipment ground in addition to the negative DC wire. That way if the case becomes electrified for some reason the current has a place to go.

[AAMAFIGHTER]

AAMAFIGHTER It's common to have an equipment ground in addition to the negative DC wire. That way if the case becomes electrified for some reason the current has a place to go.

ncitro Oh man thank you! That was my main question. So it won’t hurt to have the Lynx grounded and the ground from the equipment itself?

[ncitro]

ncitro Oh man thank you! That was my main question. So it won’t hurt to have the Lynx grounded and the ground from the equipment itself?

No that will be fine. I'd recommend running the equipment grounds to the trailer frame as short as possible. The manuals should specify a size.

[KSC_Travels]

AAMAFIGHTER It's common to have an equipment ground in addition to the negative DC wire. That way if the case becomes electrified for some reason the current has a place to go.

AAMAFIGHTER

Also noticed that in your revised diagram there is no longer a bare copper ground on the converter.... that is actually the ground for the 120V (A/C) side of that equipment and should stay in place.