Switching to Lithium Batteries

[Jlawles2]

I've thought about making the switch to Li just for less things to think about. How much would it hurt to put in a 50AH to 100 AH battery but not put in a Li converter? Would short charging the battery hurt since we do not boon dock and only really use the battery for setup and break down when traveling? I know I would not be getting full capacity of the battery unless I went to a higher voltage Li Converter.

[ncitro]

I've thought about making the switch to Li just for less things to think about. How much would it hurt to put in a 50AH to 100 AH battery but not put in a Li converter? Would short charging the battery hurt since we do not boon dock and only really use the battery for setup and break down when traveling? I know I would not be getting full capacity of the battery unless I went to a higher voltage Li Converter.

As far as I know that should be fine. I don't believe they suffer from memory like the old Ni-Cad batteries so not charging them to full should not hurt them.

[StephenO]

I've thought about making the switch to Li just for less things to think about. How much would it hurt to put in a 50AH to 100 AH battery but not put in a Li converter? Would short charging the battery hurt since we do not boon dock and only really use the battery for setup and break down when traveling? I know I would not be getting full capacity of the battery unless I went to a higher voltage Li Converter.

I was in the same boat with upgrading to lithium, but our 2 6v AGM batteries had been meeting our needs. That was until recently.... Before putting them in storage I did a full charge, but after about two weeks I checked their voltage. One was at 6.53v as expected, but the other was at 5.67v. So after 5 years of use, I will be retiring them and look for Boxing Day sales on batteries, and probably solar upgrades.

[Reacher]

Amazon had a cyber Monday deal on the Li Time batteries and I scored a couple 50ah for $129.00 each to replace my group 24 80ah LA battery that came with the trailer. Install was a snap. The stock WFCO auto detect switched to Li mode after I switched on the lights and fans for a couple hours and ran the batteries down to 80%. The stock Furrion 30A (25 actual) controller was easy to switch and the stock Furrion meter with 100ah shunt was easy to callibrate. So I more than doubled battery capacity and more than halved the weight for under $300 USD including cables and battery box. No problems so far, knock on wood.

[Sandridge4]

I've thought about making the switch to Li just for less things to think about. How much would it hurt to put in a 50AH to 100 AH battery but not put in a Li converter? Would short charging the battery hurt since we do not boon dock and only really use the battery for setup and break down when traveling? I know I would not be getting full capacity of the battery unless I went to a higher voltage Li Converter.

Amazon still has pretty good sale going on LiTime batteries, they did have a deal on a 100ah battery and bench charger. So far I’ve had no issues with them but they are still fairly new. Yesterday I did some testing and unplugged and ran a test like we were boondocking and they performed quite well. Ran the inverter and watched tv, had lights on and solar running, smart shunt said we could run like that for 20ish hours. So far so good!!

[Yoda]

ncitro did you document your installation on the forum? I have found several others but am interested in yours since we have similar TV’s and am now thinking the 40A DC to DC will be my next upgrade. Want to start planning and building a shopping list!

Scott I did a 60A install on my 2022 F350 - should be very close to your truck. Do you have up fitter switches? I used one to power the solenoid, but there are probably other ways to do it. Do you know your alternator size? That may be a factor in how big you go.
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...harger-project

Keith

[Sandridge4]

Scott I did a 60A install on my 2022 F350 - should be very close to your truck. Do you have up fitter switches? I used one to power the solenoid, but there are probably other ways to do it. Do you know your alternator size? That may be a factor in how big you go.
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...harger-project

Keith

Thanks Keith!! I do have the upfitter switches also have the 397 amp alternator. I am trying to decide between using the Renogy unit or LiTime unit either one will be 40 amp so I shouldn’t have any issues. Also still mulling over options for what to power the d+ off of.

[Yoda]

Thanks Keith!! I do have the upfitter switches also have the 397 amp alternator. I am trying to decide between using the Renogy unit or LiTime unit either one will be 40 amp so I shouldn’t have any issues. Also still mulling over options for what to power the d+ off of.

I wired the D+ trigger circuit to the running lights. I always travel with my light on anyway. But your right lots of ways to do it

[Sandridge4]

I wired the D+ trigger circuit to the running lights. I always travel with my light on anyway. But your right lots of ways to do it

I am contemplating wiring to the 12v from the 7 way… I think it should work as long as I am always using the upfitter to cut the incoming power while hooking up etc. thoughts??

[howson]

I am contemplating wiring to the 12v from the 7 way… I think it should work as long as I am always using the upfitter to cut the incoming power while hooking up etc. thoughts??

As documented in post 56 of my (long!) install thread:

Got to actually tow the camper today with this DC Charger setup for the very first time today. I do not like that I tied in the D+ signal to the truck's charger line. Every time I open the door to the truck it shut off the charger and with the distance from the driver's seat to the BMV-712 it is difficult to verify everything is working correctly.

This is due to how our Ford truck's 7-way is programmed to work. Bothered me---may not make a difference to you?

For the full context and my resolution, see https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...3166#post13166

Howard

[Sandridge4]

As documented in post 56 of my (long!) install thread:

Got to actually tow the camper today with this DC Charger setup for the very first time today. I do not like that I tied in the D+ signal to the truck's charger line. Every time I open the door to the truck it shut off the charger and with the distance from the driver's seat to the BMV-712 it is difficult to verify everything is working correctly.

This is due to how our Ford truck's 7-way is programmed to work. Bothered me---may not make a difference to you?

For the full context and my resolution, see https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...3166#post13166

Howard

Thanks for pointing that out! I remember reading that now. I guess I’ll look at the trailer lights.

Has anyone heard anything good or bad about the LiTime DC-DC charger? Right now the price is hard to ignore and have reached out to them a few times about my batteries and they have always been responsive and very helpful.
https://www.litime.com/products/liti...cium-batteries

[howson]

Has anyone heard anything good or bad about the LiTime DC-DC charger?

I haven't looked, but maybe Will Prowse has done a review? That's how I settled on the Renogy (Will's recommendation).

[Yoda]

Thanks for pointing that out! I remember reading that now. I guess I’ll look at the trailer lights.

Has anyone heard anything good or bad about the LiTime DC-DC charger? Right now the price is hard to ignore and have reached out to them a few times about my batteries and they have always been responsive and very helpful.
https://www.litime.com/products/liti...cium-batteries

Amazon has it cheaper.at $87.98 currently https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charg.../dp/B0CKYWRPN8
I would read all of the reviews. I read somewhere about a power draw when not in use depending on how connected - cant find it now. I would still go Renogy

Try searching for reviews. Will Prowse has not reviewed yet but does like thier batterys

Keith