I have been dry camping in Colorado for over a week. Last Monday I took my battery to a NAPA store to have it charged. It had a bad cell, so they replaced it. That battery was showing "low" this morning so I took it to NAPA again. They were able to charge it and it tested fine, with 12.63 volts of charge. When I installed the battery it read "good," but not "charged" as I would expect a fully charged battery to show. I have my fridge on propane, I ran my water heater on propane for about 15 minutes, and ran the water pump for a few minutes to was a few dishes. I have kept everything off except the fridge when not in use. The battery is now showing "fair." I've been all through the rig and cannot find anything that could be draining the battery. Is there something I am overlooking?
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Hi Jeff,
Welcome to our Grand Design Owners Forum. Something is discharging your battery . . . or you have a second bad battery. What size and type of battery are we talking about? A good tool to invest in is a Clamp Ammeter. This is placed around either the negative or positive cable from the battery and measures the current flowing. This will tell you whether the cause is current draw by the trailer or lack of supply by the battery. Make sure to get a meter that can measure DC current. The less expensive ones can only measure AC current.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by KemoSabeFLG View PostI have been dry camping in Colorado for over a week. Last Monday I took my battery to a NAPA store to have it charged. It had a bad cell, so they replaced it. That battery was showing "low" this morning so I took it to NAPA again. They were able to charge it and it tested fine, with 12.63 volts of charge. When I installed the battery it read "good," but not "charged" as I would expect a fully charged battery to show. I have my fridge on propane, I ran my water heater on propane for about 15 minutes, and ran the water pump for a few minutes to was a few dishes. I have kept everything off except the fridge when not in use. The battery is now showing "fair." I've been all through the rig and cannot find anything that could be draining the battery. Is there something I am overlooking?
A 2 way fridge and water heater actually uses DC electricity from your battery when they are running on propane. Also, any lights you use, inverters in use or on standby, solar charge controllers, any monitoring equipment, etc.
With my system I have a constant 50-55W (4-5 amps from the batteries) draw just to keep the inverter and other electronic accessories on - that is not running the fridge or anything else. That is my trailer sitting on my property in "storage".
When we dry camp and are running the fridge, using lights, charging phones, etc, we can use up to 3000W a day.
I know this probably doesn't answer your question, but, if you have an energy monitor, look how many watts is being used at any given point It may help you isolate the energy hog.Allen
2021 Momentum 21G
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Originally posted by KemoSabeFLG View PostI have been dry camping in Colorado for over a week. Last Monday I took my battery to a NAPA store to have it charged. It had a bad cell, so they replaced it. That battery was showing "low" this morning so I took it to NAPA again. They were able to charge it and it tested fine, with 12.63 volts of charge. When I installed the battery it read "good," but not "charged" as I would expect a fully charged battery to show. I have my fridge on propane, I ran my water heater on propane for about 15 minutes, and ran the water pump for a few minutes to was a few dishes. I have kept everything off except the fridge when not in use. The battery is now showing "fair." I've been all through the rig and cannot find anything that could be draining the battery. Is there something I am overlooking?
Use the search feature to research batterys, solar, DC-DC, etc.
Welcome and I hope this helps.
Keith2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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As mentioned by Rob, something to measure the amp draw would help you dramatically. I have and use a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (not extremely expensive by standards). Owing and knowing how to use one you can trace down to the circuit that has the most drain.
Until you can test the draw on the system with everything truly OFF (hint not everything is off even with the disconnect key pulled) will start the baseline of draw. From there build up using the system you use on a standard basis.
Also a fully charged lead acid deep cell battery should be about 13.2 volts.Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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Thanks for the helpful and informative responses. While I am new to RV ownership, I did own a houseboat on Lake Powell for over 25 years. Basically, an RV on pontoons. So I am familiar with 12v system management … to a point. My first task regarding my current power issue is to add a second battery (using group 24 size at present). I am going to get two good batteries like the Interstate batteries I had on my boat. My rig is wired for solar so that will be the next upgrade.
My concern is this: up until this week, I was able to go 4 to 5 days without needing a charge, with judicious power use. Yesterday I went from fully charged to zip in less than 10 hours.
Do I have tank heaters? Nothing in the OM about those.
Jeff Johnson
2021 Imagine XLS 17MKE
2013 Tahoe LT
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Originally posted by KemoSabeFLG View PostThanks for the helpful and informative responses. While I am new to RV ownership, I did own a houseboat on Lake Powell for over 25 years. Basically, an RV on pontoons. So I am familiar with 12v system management … to a point. My first task regarding my current power issue is to add a second battery (using group 24 size at present). I am going to get two good batteries like the Interstate batteries I had on my boat. My rig is wired for solar so that will be the next upgrade.
My concern is this: up until this week, I was able to go 4 to 5 days without needing a charge, with judicious power use. Yesterday I went from fully charged to zip in less than 10 hours.
Do I have tank heaters? Nothing in the OM about those.2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Originally posted by KemoSabeFLG View Post
Do I have tank heaters? Nothing in the OM about those.
2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
2021 303RLS
Electricians were created because engineers need heroes too...
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Originally posted by KemoSabeFLG View PostI have been dry camping in Colorado for over a week. Last Monday I took my battery to a NAPA store to have it charged. It had a bad cell, so they replaced it. That battery was showing "low" this morning so I took it to NAPA again. They were able to charge it and it tested fine, with 12.63 volts of charge. When I installed the battery it read "good," but not "charged" as I would expect a fully charged battery to show. I have my fridge on propane, I ran my water heater on propane for about 15 minutes, and ran the water pump for a few minutes to was a few dishes. I have kept everything off except the fridge when not in use. The battery is now showing "fair." I've been all through the rig and cannot find anything that could be draining the battery. Is there something I am overlooking?
Hope this helps.2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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Yoda Scott'n'Wendy and KemoSabeFLG
Even if the trailer had tank heaters unless there's a failure on their thermostat feature (or it's very cold where the trailer is located) they shouldn't be causing an issue.
The 17MKE apparently doesn't come with a battery monitor from the factory (disappointing). If the budget will allow it, consider a Victron SmartShunt or BMV-712. There's a wealth of information on battery monitors on this site (a search will find it) and also on YouTube. A familiar video (to me) is AMSolar's. A bit dated, but still applicable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tV055vmZgvY
With the battery monitor it is very easy to keep track of power usage, power draw, charging, etc. Highly recommended.
HowardForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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