Installation and Integration of Inverter for 2023 XLS 22MLE

[Melsman]

Hello All,

I wanted to be able to install and inverter in my ’23 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22MLE trailer and tie it in to the main electrical system in the trailer, thus creating a “whole house” off-grid electrical solution. And that is subject of this multi-part post. Please note that this is NOT a beginner project, and if you’re uncomfortable working with electricity or electrical components, please don’t attempt! Secondly, this is how I completed this project. Your local electrical codes or other sensibilities may guide you to do things differently. You are responsible for your own installation! Do it right. Electricity is not something you should underestimate. And integrating an inverter into your trailer’s electrical system is serious business. Treat it as such.

This is a four-part article. Please read through the entire procedure a couple of times so that you have a clear understanding of what to do and when to do it. In the Preamble Ramble, I will discuss the basic design and my choice for components. In Part One, I will cover in the mounting and connection of the inverter into the trailer and the 12V battery system. Part Two will cover the installation and connection of the 120V system to include the transfer switch configuration and installation. And finally, Part Three covers inverter control panel and battery monitor installation, system final testing, and installing inverter/cable protection panels.

This multi-part post is a summary. Unfortunately, the size limitations of the web site do not allow me to go into great detail. However, if you’d like a more detailed description (with many more pictures and witty banter 😊), download the .pdf file attached below. Also, here is a link to my original concept discussion.

Preamble Ramble: System Design and Component Selection

As previously mentioned, I wanted a whole house inverter solution with the full understanding that I would NOT be able to run the A/C or electric heater for any significant amount of time. Mostly, I simply wanted to have 120VAC available at the duplex outlets in the trailer when camping off-grid. The idea being to be able to watch a little TV, charge electronic devices, brew a quick cup of coffee, or run the microwave for brief periods. This meant that the inverter needed to be fairly large (2000 watts minimum) and the battery bank feeding the system needed to have a relatively large capacity (200Ah minimum). The other factor that played into this is that our trailer has a 12V refrigerator and a factory installed 165W solar panel and charger. It is important is to remember that running an inverter with a moderate load can drain a battery bank quickly, possibly leading to insufficient power to run the refrigerator and requiring many hours of bright sunlight to recharge the battery bank. So to monitor the status of the batteries and to add warnings for battery discharge, I wanted to add a battery monitor. (In a separate project, I also added an additional solar panel. Here's a link to that post.)

I decided that I wanted to have the inverter connect automatically to the 120VAC system when the inverter was activated and when not connected to shore power. For this purpose I needed an automatic transfer switch in the system. All of this had to feed into the current power center unit that came with the trailer (WFCO WF-8735-GE-AD). I felt that the supplied unit was sufficient to supply my needs and correctly charge the battery bank; I just had to figure out how to tie all of the components together.

Quick discussion on the Power Center unit
The WFCO WF-8735 power center unit – like most RV power centers - has two distinct functions: 120V AC power distribution via six circuit breakers, and a 12V converter unit that converts the 120V input into 12V output to energize the 12V service bus as well as the battery bank charging circuit. The converter is actually a separate component - housed within the same unit housing - that is wired into the power distribution panel. Many may already know and understand this, but it’s an important piece of information to comprehend when contemplating how to integrate an inverter into the electrical system. Diagrammatically, these individual components (AC Panel/Converter) are represented as separate entities in the system design diagram, but they are contained within the same power center housing.

System Design
I settled on a very basic design that essentially inserted the inverter input into the shore power circuit when the trailer was not connected to shore power via an automatic transfer switch (Go Power TS-30). In this design, when connected to shore power, the WF-8735 receives 120VAC as before via an energized transfer switch. All functions of the WF-8735 remain unchanged. However, once shore power is removed, the transfer switch would switch to inverter input to then feed the VAC panel on the WF-8735. However, as a result of the switch, the 12V charger function of the WF-8735 is disconnected and thus disabled. This ensures that there is no battery charge back-feed loop. Note that the 12V service bus continues to be back-fed through the 12v battery bank charging conduits, just as it is whenever shore power is disconnected. The key here is that the charger is disabled when the inverter power is applied to the system.


Component Selection
Everyone has their own needs, opinions, and bank account, and because of this, opinions vary wildly on what components should be used and which ones shouldn’t. Also, some components get a bad rap simply because they come with the trailer. In my case, I realize that I will not be using this trailer on lengthy trips across the world or living in it for extended periods off of the grid. With that in mind, I don’t feel like I need a top of the line solution and can use components that may or may not have excellent longevity. And I also have a limited budget, so I needed to figure out how to strike a compromise.

First and foremost, if you have the funds, the Victron line of components is top-notch and especially well suited for RV (and marine) applications. However, I opted to go with lesser cost components that still had good reputations and manufacturer support.

Power center unit – As I mentioned before, I kept the WFCO WF-8735-GE-AD unit that came with the trailer. It appears that the WFCO folks have really been working on refining their components – especially the battery charging system, which is traditionally the biggest complaint on stock units. So, I decided to keep this unit as part of the system.

Inverter – This is the heart of the system and thus the main component. Since I would be operating electronic components, a pure sine wave inverter is a must. I also wanted something in the 2000-2500 watt range that could be hard-wired into the system (as opposed to wiring a plug to plug into the 120VAC outlets), had good reviews and good customer support… not to mention a reasonable price point. I purchased the Voltworks Pure Sine Wave 2500W inverter. It has the VAC terminal block that I wanted and also comes with a remote power switch/monitor panel which I will mount in the trailer; all at around $375 to my door.

Inverter Module – The inverter module consists of the inverter plus other components mounted on a board. Those components are: a battery shut-off switch used to isolate the battery bank from ALL trailer loads; a 250A resettable circuit breaker that protects the inverter and also acts as a master switch to remove the inverter from the 12V bus; and the battery monitor’s shunt. These components, when mounted on the board, comprise the inverter module.

Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) – I chose to go with an automatic switch rather than a manual transfer switch simply because I like the “automatic” function. Yes; it becomes a power drain while energized on shore power and is a less-robust failure point than a manual switch, but I’ve had good experiences with automatic transfer switches in the past. Plus, that’s just one less step to perform when switching to inverter power. As for selecting an automatic transfer switch, there’s not a lot to choose from out there, but the Go Power TS-30 was perfect for my design’s needs and the Go Power people were very helpful when I had questions. There is one modification that I decided to make which was to bypass the 30-sec power switch-over delay that is defaulted to “On” from the factory.

Battery Monitor – As I mentioned before, I wanted to add a battery monitor that I could mount inside the trailer to stay appraised of the batter bank’s charge status. As a note, the 22MLE comes with a battery monitor located in the forward pass-through compartment. However, it is designed to monitor the status of the battery bank as related to the solar charger/controller and the monitor’s shunt sample point is not optimal for the inverter system. Not to mention that it is in the pass-through, and thus not easily monitored during normal use. I settled on the Renogy 500A Battery Monitor with 500A shunt. I liked the various features of this monitor as well as having enough cable to run and mount the monitor inside the trailer.

120V Supply Cable – I make special mention of this detail because rather than opening up the coroplast under-panel of the trailer and having to reseal everything, I chose to run the power cable externally under the trailer frame (similar to how the propane line is run). However, to offer proper protection for the cable, I chose armored MC cable which is also certified for wet environments.

Here are some photos of the finished project:


Finished Inverter module with protective panels



ATS install location under aft dinette bench



Inverter control panel and battery monitor in place

(Post continues below)

[Melsman]

Installation and Integration of Inverter for 2023 XLS 22MLE (Continued)


The following is a complete listing of the parts and pieces I used for my installation:

1. Inverter: Voltworks Pure Sine Wave 2500W inverter
2. Automatic Transfer Switch: Go Power TS-30 30 amp transfer switch
3. Battery Monitor: Renogy 500A Battery Monitor with 500A shunt.
4. Inverter Circuit Breaker: 250 Amp Surface Mount Circuit breaker with push button disconnect and manual reset.
5. Battery Cut-off Switch – used to completely isolate battery bank from trailer.
6. 15A push button circuit breaker – used to protect converter circuit within transfer switch.
7. (10 ft ) 1/0 Battery cable; red and black conductors – Get good, solid copper cables.
8. (25 ft) Armored 10/2 MC cable – (I used 10/3 MC because it was readily available.)
9. (5ft) 10/2 Non-metallic (NM) cable (Also known under the trade name of “Romex”)
10. (5ft) 14/2 Non-metallic (NM)cable
11. (5ft) 8 gauge RED wire – used to connect trailer 12v bus to battery bank circuit.
12. (25ft) 4P4C “Telephone” cable and (2) RJ9 connectors – This will be needed to build a longer remote power switch cable. You will also need a crimper to connect the RJ9 connector ends.
13. (15ft) ½” split loom – used to sheath and protect data wires from monitor and inverter
14. (1) 2.54mm jumper cap for disabling transfer switch delay timer
15. 2x4ft sheet of ½” plywood – to mount inverter in trailer
16. 2x4ft sheet of ¼” plywood – to build shield to protect inverter/wiring
17. (4ft) 1x2 board ripped down center to create two 1x1’s. (Actual dimension – ¾ x ¾ )
18. (10 pcs) 1/0 AWG x 3/8” crimp on cable lugs with heat shrink – used to make cables for battery and inverter connections. You will also need crimper (or a friend with a crimper).
19. (4ft) Adhesive-backed cable protector sleeve (“Wiremold” or similar)
20. (30) ½ inch cable mounting clamps
21. Wire nuts (or Lever nuts - (2) 3-port and (4) 2-port lever nuts)
22. 3/8” (for ½” knock-out) NM clamp connector
23. 3/8” (for ½” knock-out) MC squeeze connector
24. (1) Circuit board 2.54mm jumper cap. (I used one from an old, unused computer circuit board)
25. Various other cable lugs to connect wires to terminal lugs. (You’ll need at least ten (10) 1/0 – 3/8” lugs for the 1/0 battery cable components as well as a couple of 8 gauge 3/8” lugs.)
26. Various screws, bolts, and blind nuts for mounting the inverter, the backing panel, etc.

Although there will be some minor omissions that we’ll run upon along the way, this is a pretty comprehensive list.
What about tools?

1. Multimeter (If you have to ask why, you really shouldn’t be tackling this project.)
2. Electrical work tools (cutters, strippers, etc.)
3. 120V circuit tester
4. Drill and/or Impact driver with assorted bits; especially a ¾” bit.
5. Zip saw (or equivalent)
6. Battery lug crimper tool.
7. Armored cable cutting tool

The total cost for this project was just south of $1500, and it took me a total of about 40 man hours from start to end. (I think it took me longer to write this post!) But remember – it’s not a race! Take your time and do it right!

Part One: Inverter and 12V Battery System Installation
The first part of the inverter installation process is the fabrication of the inverter mounting board. This board is cut from ½” plywood, holes measured and drilled, blind nuts added for mounting screws, and then painted.



After fabricating the mounting board, I mounted the inverter, battery shut-off switch, 250A resettable circuit breaker, and battery monitor shunt to the board. I then fabricated the connecting 1/0 cables using sections of the 1/0 cable and 1/0-3/8” copper lugs. This is now your inverter module.
Prep the pass-through area by drilling 4 (four) ¾” holes in the front passenger-side corner. These holes are drilled about three (3) inches from the front wall, about an inch apart, with the right-most hole about 1” from the passenger-side wall. Most importantly, the holes are drilled at roughly a 45 degree angle aft. This configuration should clear the aluminum cross member in the pass-through floor and the metal bracket on the underside.


¾” holes drilled in pass-through. (Right-most hole not visible)
Try to avoid hitting the hidden aluminum cross member.

To mount the inverter module, I drove 5 self-tapping screws through the upper edge of the module board into the front aluminum cross member. I also mounted a 32” piece of ½” x ½” aluminum channel on which to rest the bottom edge of the board. I then secured the bottom edge of the board into the channel with 5 more screws. (Pro tip – It’s MUCH easier to determine the location of this lower support strip by using the empty mounting board before adding the components.)


Inverter module mounted in place. Note support under lower edge.

Once the inverter module was mounted, I ran the two 1/0 battery cables through the inner two ¾” holes in the pass-through floor, through ¾” holes in the trailer frame, and over to the battery bank. You will need to drill holes through the frame to pass the cables. Be sure to add grommets to these holes so that the cables will not chaff and short! Take your time with this! I added extra protection against chafing wherever the cables passed through or around metal and secured them with insulated ½” clamps.


Grommets and sleeves are used anywhere there is metal contact

The next two steps involve taking the trailer’s existing 12V bus wires that are connected to the battery bank and connecting them instead to the inverter module. First, remove the negative(-) wire from the battery and run it through the smaller hole between the inner most ¾” holes in the floor of the pass-through, and connect to the shunt’s P- terminal. Next, you’ll need to replace the trailer’s positive(+) wire to the battery bank with a new wire. (The stock wire is not long enough.) To do this, take a 5 foot length of red 8-gauge wire from the trailer’s 12V bus (left side of resettable circuit breaker mounted on the trailer frame/tongue) and run it to the top terminal of the inverter module’s resettable 250 A circuit breaker.

Next, run the supplied shunt wire from the B+ terminal in the center of the shunt to the positive terminal on the battery side of the shut-off switch. You can now do initial tests on the inverter module.


Locations of Trailer’s 12V bus wires connected to module

Connect the inverter control panel to the inverter, and connect the battery monitor to the shunt. Using the inverter control panel, turn on the inverter. The system should come to life with the proper led lights showing and the proper voltages showing on the inverter’s display screen (on the inverter outer case). Once everything is running properly and within specifications, your inverter module is mounted and complete. Take this opportunity to configure the battery monitor according to the instructions and your particular battery bank’s specifications. Once this is complete, turn off the inverter and turn the shut-off switch to “off”.

(Post continues below)

[Melsman]

Installation and Integration of Inverter for 2023 XLS 22MLE (Continued)

Part Two: 120V System Install

The first step for the 120V system is to prep the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) for installation. The diagram below gives a schematic of how the ATS will be configured:



The relay wires inside the ATS are labeled as follows: (clockwise, starting in the lower left corner of the relay) –

• “PANEL” white wire – 120V Power Panel Neutral
• “SHORE/CONV” white wire - Shore Power/Converter Neutral
• “INVTR” white wire - Inverter Neutral
• “INVTR” black wire - Inverter Load (“hot”)
• “SHORE/CONV” black wire - Shore Power/Converter Load (“hot”)
• “PANEL” black wire – 120V Power Panel Load (“hot”)

Note how ATS relay wires are labeled. This is critical.

If you wish to disable the ATS’ 30-second transfer delay, remove the circuit board from the ATC’s circuit board compartment, and then add the 2.54mm circuit board jumper across terminal H2. Once this is done, reinstall the circuit board back into the circuit board compartment.

Finally, I installed the 15A/120VAC push-button circuit breaker into the left side of the ATS case. This will be wired in series in the new converter supply circuit. Once this was completed, I mounted the ATS to the floor under the aft dinette bench.

Running the 10/2 MC cable
The next step is to drill a ¾” hole under the aft dinette bench to bring in the 120V MC armored cable. This hole is drilled exactly 12 inches from the inside face of the exterior wall, and 3 inches from the cabinet wall. First, the MC cable is run through the right-most ¾” hole in the floor of the pass-through, up to the 120V terminals on the inverter. Secure the metal MC cable to the aluminum cross member with an uninsulated metal clamp. Connect the grounding lug’s wire to the metal clamp/frame cross member also. Do NOT connect the 10/2 wire conductors to the inverter at this time!

Run the remaining length of MC cable underneath the frame using clamps secured by the self-tapping screws securing the trailer’s under panel.


MC cable is secured using clamps and pre-existing self-tapping screws

Every time the MC cable passes over a sharp metal area and when coming through the wheel well area, I wrapped it with a piece of ½” heater hose just to offer a bit of protection from chaffing or road debris kicked up by the tires. Also, when penetrating the metal floor pan I also pass it through a 3/4” plastic bushing.

Now that the MC cable has been fed into the space under the dinette, run it to the ATS box, securing it with clamps along the way, and terminating it into the ATS box using an MC cable squeeze-type fitting. The 10/2 MC wires are then connected as follows:

Black wire (Inverter 120V Load) – ATS Black Wire (Labeled “INVTR”)
White wire (Inverter 120V Neutral) – ATS White Wire (Labeled “INVTR”)
Green wire (Inverter Ground) – ATS Ground Block

Connecting the AC power panel and 12V converter unit to the ATS

DISCONNECT the trailer from the 120V source (shore, generator, inverter, etc.), remove the power center. (Here is a link to a post showing the wiring behind the power center.) Drill a 1 inch hole in the cabinet wall between the power center mounting area and the under-dinette space where the ATS is located. The hole should be about 12 inches back and 3-4 inches above the floor level. (As a note, my 22MLE has an unused circuit breaker ("Branch#1: Refer Opt.") in the panel. Here's a link to the circuit I added to use this spare breaker.)

On the back of the power center, remove the orange “main power” NM cable from the unit. Mount the replacement NM clamp connector in the now vacant knock-out hole. Run the orange NM cable through the 1” cabinet hole over to the ATS and feed into the ATS enclosure, connecting the black wire to the SHORE/CONV black wire, the white wire to the SHORE/CONV white wire, and the ground wire to the ATS’ ground bus bar.

Run a 5 foot section of new 10/2 NM cable from the ATS (after connecting to the ATS’ PANEL black, PANEL white, and ground bus bar) through the hole in the cabinet and through the new NM clamp connector in the power center’s case. Cut the NM cable to length and cut, strip, and connect the cable’s wires to the 30A main circuit breaker (black wire), neutral bus bar (white wire), and ground bus bar.

Next, take the 5 foot section of 14/2 NM cable, feed it into the ATS case, strip the wires out and add a lug connector on the black wire. This lug connects to one terminal on the resettable circuit breaker mounted on the ATS housing earlier. Make a 6 inch black jumper wire that connects (via lug connector) to the other terminal of the circuit breaker and connects to the SHORE/CONV black wire. Connect the 14/2 NM cable’s white wire to the SHORE/CONV white, and the cable’s ground wire to the ground bus bar.


Note the ATS connections of the 3 NM cables and the MC cable.

Run the 14/2 NM cable from the ATS to the power center through the clamp connector, sistered with the new 30A NM cable. Identify the three 120V power wires feeding the converter from the 120V power panel and connect them to the 14/2 cable’s wires.


Wires powering the Converter section connected to the 14/2 NM cable.
(Note: 10/2 NM wires not yet connected to Main for photo clarity)

Once all wires are connected and secured, reinstall the power center unit.

In the pass-through compartment, connect the 10/2 MC cable’s three wires to the inverter’s 120V lugs. The inverter is now connected to the 12V system and connected to the ATS, the ATS is now connected to the power center and ready for testing.

Testing our work so far
Check that everything is installed properly, re-connect the inverter’s control pad and the battery monitor data wire to the shunt, turn on the battery shut-off switch, and carefully reconnect the trailer to shore power. Everything should come back to life. Turning on the inverter should make no difference, but disconnecting shore power should switch the trailer’s 120V system to the inverter. (These status changes can be verified via the battery monitor.
Once you have verified that all 120V outlets are operational and the 12V bus and battery bank charging is normal, turn off the inverter and disconnect the battery monitor data wire.

(Post continues below)

[Melsman]

Installation and Integration of Inverter for 2023 XLS 22MLE (Continued)

Part Three: Control Panel and Monitor Installation and Inverter/cable protection

If you wish to mount the inverter control panel in the upper cabinet panel area, you’ll need to build a replacement cord using 4P4C telephone cord with RJ9 connectors on each end. Be sure that it is wired “straight” (i.e. black wire connected to pin 1 on both ends). Test the function of your new cable BEFORE installing it.

Once you have two properly functioning, insert them into the split loom. Run both cords through the entire 15 foot section of split loom sheathing before installation, wrapping electrical tape to close the slit loom about every 24 inches or so. Once this is complete, run the wire/split loom into the left-most ¾” hole drilled in the front corner of the pass-through area.
In the pass through area, insert the inverter control panel cord connector into the inverter and pull the battery monitor data wire out of the split loom and connect to the shunt.


All cables in place on the inverter module.
Note: Lower and upper protective panel mounts in place.

I then continued running the split loom underneath the trailer along the frame through the voids in the frame stringers, through the step well, and immediately to the other side of the step well where I had drilled another ¾” hole through the floor and into the forward dinette bench area through the bench’s horizontal stringer.

Preparing the upper cabinet control center
Remove the lower control panel and pull the panel forward. Once you’ve cleared most of the wires through this hole, reach in to the back left corner of the cabinet and make sure there are no additional wires or other obstructions.

Drill an oblong ¼” hole through the bottom left corner of the cabinet, immediately above the hole in the bench stringer where the cords now protruded. This hole should be just big enough to pass the cords through. Once the cords have been run into the lower corner of the cabinet, cover the cords with the 4 foot of protective cable cover, i.e. wiremold. The cover should extend flush to the bench stringer such that the bench cover panel has to be modified slightly to fit around it.


Split loom through floor. Note wiremold is in place

Trace the outlines of the control panel and monitor in the cabinet face and cut out the openings for the panel and monitor. Test fit the components and connect the cables to their respective devices, mount them into place, and test them.

Protecting the inverter and associated wiring -

To protect the inverter module from items moving around inside the pas-through area, I built a multi-part protective cover that protects the inverter and cables, but still allows access to the shut-off switch and light fixture. I used ¼” plywood for the protective panels cut according to the diagrams.





I mounted the protective panels using a 1x2 and ripped it into two 1x1’s (actual dimension – ¾”x ¾”). I used a 32” piece for the bottom mount, and an 8” and 11” piece for the upper mounts. These mounting blocks were glued and screwed into place. I then installed the inverter protective panel and secured with more screws.


Inverter panel in place. Note exposed 7 ¾” mounting block for cable panel.

The cable protective panel connects to the inverter panel and then slants at an angle over the cables. This protective panel consists of two pieces of plywood and a 7 ¾” 1x1 piece that is glued and screwed to the floor that the cable panel mounts to. You will also need a 4 ¾” 1x1 for the edge of the cable panel and a 3” 1x1 to connect the cable panel front piece to the triangle piece. Once you’ve got the cable panel assembled and fitted properly, secure it into the floor mount and the inverter panel mount using screws.

Your inverter installation is now complete. The inverter is integrated such that it automatically get’s switched into the system when shore power/generator is disconnected. Also, you now have a battery bank isolation switch that will completely remove the batteries from the system, as well as a new battery monitor located in a more convenient location. And all of your 120V outlets are energized by the inverter as well. Just be sure not to over-discharge your battery bank.

Good luck!

Melsman

[howson]

Melsman -- I'm running out of adjectives! The explanation for why the components in your system were selected (in post 1) could be the most beneficial part of the thread. There are definitely options that span multiple price points. Great job, as always, with the documentation.

Howard

[Popga]

Melsman howson

Melsman, I have been reading your PDF in complete fascination...You have made everything so clear. Thank you!

My system is 50A. I am currently installing a Renogy 3000W Pure sine inverter.

Since my panel is essentially a "240 V" panel, would I only be able to power 1 side of the panel with to go power TS-30 transfer switch?

Do you know if the TS-50 would work with only 1 inverter?

I rarely camp off grid more than 2 days and don't plan to use A/C's in inverter.

Appreciate your posts....

Erik

[Popga]

Melsman

Where did you purchase your Go Power TS-30?

Erik

[Jlawles2]

Page 5 of the manual states that you can feed both hot legs from the inverter if properly wired.

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/c...N_GP-TS-50.pdf

I would have to do some testing with the equipment (Note I do not possess the equipment to do the test) to verify that it would work and to provide a "AT YOUR OWN RISK" diagram. I do believe I understand what they are saying in the manual on page 5 for wiring the system to power both legs of the coach from a single 120V inverter.

[Popga]

Melsman Jlawles2 howson

Thank you Joseph! Upon reading that manual you linked, I contacted Go Power and they confirmed that I can power both sides with a jumper. They are also helping me figure out the wiring to the AC-DC converter so it will disconnect on inverter.

When I had corroplast down this summer, anticipating this inverter project, I ran 1" x 2 conduit lines from front pass thru to the space behind the AC-DC panel. Anyone know if I can run a comm line or RJ9 telephone line in the same conduit as the AC line from the inverter? Or will that cause interference of some sort?

Thanks,
Erik

[Jlawles2]

Making the converter turn off could be as simple as wring it with its own breaker to the input side of the transfer switch. That way when the switch looses power, the converter looses power and is not powered by the inverter.

As for the Comm line, that's a bit more of a challenge as it's possible depending on shielding how much crossover magnetism you can see between the 2 lines. If you can find a shielded comm line it may work. How many conductors are needed in the RJ9 line, 2, 4, or 8? Something like https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...RoCMaQQAvD_BwE could eliminate the interference.

[Popga]

Jlawles2

Thank you Joseph. Lots to learn....at the price of that shielded wire that you linked (Thanks by the way) I'll use my 2nd conduit line for comms. Maybe when I blow up my 3rd black tank in 3 consecutive years, I'll add a third conduit line as a spare.

Erik

[TucsonJim]

Melsman - Your post is simply superb. Your workmanship, safety, parts selection, and documentation is some of the best.

Your initial caution about working with electricity should be added to every electrical thread we have.

"Please note that this is NOT a beginner project, and if you’re uncomfortable working with electricity or electrical components, please don’t attempt! Secondly, this is how I completed this project. Your local electrical codes or other sensibilities may guide you to do things differently. You are responsible for your own installation! Do it right. Electricity is not something you should underestimate. And integrating an inverter into your trailer’s electrical system is serious business. Treat it as such."

Jim

[Jlawles2]

The most important thing I have learned in life: "proper is not cheap".

Just ask Keith (yoda) the rabbit hole is deep and narrow.