look for this on amazon. Bussmann CBC-50HB Circuit Breaker (Type I Heavy Duty Automotive with Stud Terminals and Bracket - 50 A), 1 Pack
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Originally posted by Running from Gnats View Postlook for this on amazon. Bussmann CBC-50HB Circuit Breaker (Type I Heavy Duty Automotive with Stud Terminals and Bracket - 50 A), 1 Pack
Is the original breaker 50A? I'm already protected at the battery with a 80 amp re-settable breaker but wanted to match what GDRV has for the original 8 AWG circuit.
JimLast edited by Guest; 05-30-2020, 05:22 PM.
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View PostAlmost finished with my install and am staining the new docking station side panel.
Would the moderators know what the amperage rating is for the original frame mounted breaker for the OEM battery connection? I need to match this and install one on the two 8 AWG wires which are now both on one side of the docking station battery switch.
Jim
If you mean the one's I have circled, on my 315RLTS they are all 30A breakers. The one with the "M" was added by MORryde for the disc brake system. It's a 40A breaker.
Howard
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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Thank you Howard and Gene,
I will install the waterproof 30 amp breaker I have in the docking station.
FYI, the Minwax black translucent stain I used looks like it will be a reasonable match for the new side panel.
Jim
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My old dwg was approximately how I thought Howard's TT was wired when he started his electrical mod. I see now form other rigs, that the cable from the disconnect usually runs 1st to the AC-DC panel and then back to the WFCO converter.
The Imagine and Transcend TTs I've seen picts of look to have the 30A CB on the frame.
This pict is of a 2020 Transcend 31RLS that was missing the battery cables. It's got a nice little 30 label on the CB.
Last edited by gbkims; 05-30-2020, 11:20 PM.Gene and Kim
2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD
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Gene,
On my Imagine, the battery connected to this breaker (in addition to other wires) and from there the 8 AWG wire terminated at the disconnect. Then on to the WFCO.
I am reconnecting both these wires in the docking station to a breaker and then to the positive busbar. The main battery feed will connect to one side of the disconnect and the other post will connect to the positive busbar. This will allow for operation of the new PD160ALV to run the rig while on AC and to keep my battery disconnected at a lower SOC for storage.
Looking at your diagram it looks like my Imagine may have a 50 amp breaker where all the wires on your diagram that attach to both your breakers are connected to a single breaker on my rig (minus stabilizers which I do not have). Since my WFCO was also running on this circuit I'm thinking it may have been 50 amps. I'll call GDRV to verify.
JimLast edited by Guest; 05-31-2020, 10:30 AM.
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Install is done except for the breaker install and the battery hold down.
Most would not know the converter/charger and DC DC charger are mounted in the newly expanded docking station. Check out where I mounted the BMV712 Smart. Disregard the crooked AC outlet.....not my doing.
Jim2 Photos
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View PostInstall is done except for the breaker install and the battery hold down.
Most would not know the converter/charger and DC DC charger are mounted in the newly expanded docking station. Check out where I mounted the BMV712 Smart. Disregard the crooked AC outlet.....not my doing.
Jim
I'm able to read the embossed description on that frame mounted circuit breaker on my trailer. I'm attaching a picture. That little bugger made me stop and really scratch my head. Isn't it a self resetting circuit breaker? What puzzled me was why the 7 pin charge wire and the converter charge wire were both on the load (silver post) side of it. But this is my first time to do something like this so i'm open to learning something new.
TommyTom and Kathy
2017 2600RB
2011 Ford F150 ecoboost
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Originally posted by bellis View Post
1. It looks like you used copper lugs. Did you vaseline or lube them? Are you in a low humidity environment? Debating Tinned copper lugs or just copper lugs.
2. Should I use the battery switch in the docking station or only use my own?
3. I think in my drawing I have left out positive power to the smartshunt?
Attached is a rough document/plan still working on it. All feedback is welcome and appreciated. Even if it is just to tell me what you did or let me see how someone else views it differently.
I'm not expert here, but I like DIY projects and this is my first time to do something like this. But I'm glad to help you if I can. To answer your questions:
1) I used tinned. They did not cost much more. No lube just the crimped joint. I bought the Tempco crimper TH0012 (Howard's tip) and it worked well for me. I also bought my cable, terminal ends and heat shrink from Tempco. At first thru Amazon, then after Fedex lost my order I ordered off their website for the same price and free ground USPS shipping.
2) I spent the extra for the Blue Sea switches . They look like good quality to me, but I've had no prior experience with them.
3) I bought the BMV 712 but I guess it's just a matter of personal preference. You might rather use your phone exclusively.
I installed my EMS HW30C behind the breaker panel and there was room for it there. My breaker panel is at the floor level at the bottom of the entertainment center cabinets. I like having it's display and it is at eye level to my right as I enter the door. Another thing about that EMS remote is that it has a bypass switch that might be useful.
TommyTom and Kathy
2017 2600RB
2011 Ford F150 ecoboost
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View PostInstall is done except for the breaker install and the battery hold down.
Most would not know the converter/charger and DC DC charger are mounted in the newly expanded docking station. Check out where I mounted the BMV712 Smart. Disregard the crooked AC outlet.....not my doing.
Jim2020 Imagine 2400BH
2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags
Our Mods
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Originally posted by tmrgn99 View Post
Nice clean install Jim!
I'm able to read the embossed description on that frame mounted circuit breaker on my trailer. I'm attaching a picture. That little bugger made me stop and really scratch my head. Isn't it a self resetting circuit breaker? What puzzled me was why the 7 pin charge wire and the converter charge wire were both on the load (silver post) side of it. But this is my first time to do something like this so I'm open to learning something new.
Tommy
I had seen this same connection on my rig. This is a resettable breaker where their intention is to fuse these circuits at their source. The 7 pin is fused at the front of the truck (now directly to DC DC) and the WFCO 12V side (now inactive at AC breaker) should be fused at the distribution panel. The frame mounted breaker is there to protect in the other direction from the RV battery when its in use. What also puzzled me are the two other wires that were connected to the battery side of this breaker which means they must be fused elsewhere. I believe these two circuits are for the solar port and the emergency brake pin. I've left this breaker in place where its now primarily used as a junction block since I am now back feeding this circuit from the positive busbar (with new breaker) in the docking station. Thank you for the confirmation on the breaker size.
One item of importance: With this design, the battery switch must be on while trailering to feed the emergency brake break away switch.
What also puzzles me is how the 55 amp WFCO converter was supposed to function through the frame mounted 30 amp resettable breaker even though its on the load side.
I should also add I've never seem more than 10 amps from the WFCO while charging my old lead acid battery where the 25ft of 8 AWG wire was inadequate for efficient charging IMO. This was the main reason for locating the lithium battery and chargers in the docking station on 4AWG welding cable.
Also you will see the AC plug hanging from above the docking station where this is the plug for the converter charger which is designed to run from a GFCI outlet. This allows me the flexibility to power this unit from the outlet on the front of the docking station. Should the lithium battery fail far from home, I can simply unplug this charger, install a deep cycle battery and turn on the original WFCO converter charger.
JimLast edited by Guest; 06-01-2020, 12:46 PM.
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
Thank you Running from Gnats .
Is the original breaker 50A? I'm already protected at the battery with a 80 amp re-settable breaker but wanted to match what GDRV has for the original 8 AWG circuit.
Jim2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
FMCA # 489460
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Running from Gnats this is a head scratcher where GDRV just confirmed the frame mounted breaker is a 30 amp unit where this also correlates to Tom's pic of his breaker. Now for the electrical guys out there. How is the WFCO supposed to be able to pass 55 amps to the battery through the load side of the breaker to charge the original lead acid battery?
The simple answer is it doesn't. But it would be nice to understand if this is a combination of wire size and length and what the lead acid battery will accept?
I believe this affirms that it would be a bad idea to replace the original battery with a lithium and use the existing wiring and WFCO to charge it.
JimLast edited by Guest; 06-01-2020, 03:21 PM.
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View PostRunning from Gnats this is a head scratcher where GDRV just confirmed the frame mounted breaker is a 30 amp unit where this also correlates to Tom's pic of his breaker. Now for the electrical guys out there. How is the WFCO supposed to be able to pass 55 amps to the battery through the load side of the breaker to charge the original lead acid battery?
The simple answer is it doesn't. But it would be nice to understand if this is a combination of wire size and length and what the lead acid battery will accept?
I believe this affirms that it would be a bad idea to replace the original battery with a lithium and use the existing wiring and WFCO to charge it.
Jim
Besides, it's it better to charge a wet-cell slowly? (I'm not a battery expert, but that's what I think I know. A lithium, in contrast, is happy to take [almost] every amp you can throw at it.)
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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