Powering Camper w/Victron Multiplus using a Manual Switch

[Yoda]

Again in the penalty box? I deserve my own seat at this point.

Curtis - you can join me in my corner anytime
howson
Great write up. - not sure I understand it all.

One question and I am not sure how to ask it, and maybe you already did if I study you information better.

Could such a switch be set up to restore the original factory wiring and bypass the Multiplus. In other words reconnect shore power directly to the distribution panel, instead of going to the Multiplus first (in case of Multiplus failure)? Remember I am only 30 amp.

Thanks

Ill go hide again
Keith

[OffToHavasu]

Curtis - you can join me in my corner anytime
howson
Great write up. - not sure I understand it all.


Thanks

Ill go hide again
Keith

Will there be adult beverages?

[Yoda]

Will there be adult beverages?

Will ice tea do? I could get something else if I am am ever allowed out of my corner.

[OffToHavasu]

Will ice tea do? I could get something else if I am am ever allowed out of my corner.

That'll be just fine.

[howson]

Yoda ,
See gbkims diagrams posted in the "hum" thread (link in post 1). Gene's circuit isolates the Multiplus' output when on 50A shore. Gene will correct me if I'm wrong, but based on how I'm reading his diagram the charger section can still be used but not the inverter.

This is not criticism just an observation: the reason that circuit doesn't work for me is because I use the inverter as an Uninterruptible Power Supply or Backup Generator for 120vAC shore power. Should shore power fail, the inverter takes over. This is important to ensure the bedroom air conditioner continues to run if the pups are in their kennels while we're away.

[openrangeowners]

I have essentially the same setup with the manual switch connected to the output of the Multiplus. I think of it as a 1 phase or 2 phase switch. In position one, it takes the output of the multiplus (could be inverter, inverter + boost, or just the line 1 pass through - when in charge only mode) and connects it to both sides (line 1 and line 2) of the camper's breaker panel. If you are plugged into 50 amps, you only are passing through line 1 of the 50 amps.

In position 2, the line 1 passes through the inverter and is routed to the line 1 side of the camper's breaker panel. Line 2 is sent to the line 2 side of the camper's breaker box. On the line 1 side, one either is inverting (ie: no outside power connected), inverting + boosting, or charge only mode - pass through to line 1.

Unless I want to run both AC units and have the fridge on electric and hot water heater on electric, I leave the switch in position 1 for travel. I leave the inverter on. I can plug my 2000 watt generator in and use boost mode to run my AC off of the inverter (limiting the generator output to 13 amps). I can plug into 50 amp shore power and treat it like I am on 30 amps shore (ie: be careful what I run in parallel.) There are very few times when I need 2 lines of 50 amps.

So far this has worked great for us. I like the simplicity of the manual switch - very easy to troubleshoot.

[Yoda]

howson openrangeowners OffToHavasu

I guess for now I wont worry about the switch. If I have the charger on (MultiPlus main switch to charger) I get pass through power if I read the manual correctly, so I don't have to run the inverter side to get pass through. Am I understanding this correctly?

I was thinking out loud that if the Multiplus failed that I could use one of the manual transfer switches to switch back, but now I don't think I need one.

I just had a Homer Moment. All I need is 3 good wire nuts, some good electrical tape, and probably 5 minutes and I can bypass the Multiplus in case of failure. Both ends of the cables are right in front of me. The shore power and distribution panel hook ups are right there - Li from shore power plug, and L2 from the distribution panel. So all I need to do is unhook them from the Multiplus and wire them together (power OFF - but what fun is that/). I guess I would need to reconnect the WFCO charger, but the solar probably will keep up.

Am I thinking straight, or do I have a cog loose?

Thanks
Keith

[OffToHavasu]

howson openrangeowners OffToHavasu

I guess for now I wont worry about the switch. If I have the charger on (MultiPlus main switch to charger) I get pass through power if I read the manual correctly, so I don't have to run the inverter side to get pass through. Am I understanding this correctly?

I was thinking out loud that if the Multiplus field that I could use one of the manual transfer switches to switch back, but now I don't think I need one.

I just had a Homer Moment. All I need is 3 good wire nuts, some good electrical tape, and probably 5 minutes and I can bypass the Multiplus in case of failure. Both ends of the cables are right in front of me. The shore power and distribution panel hook ups are right there - Li from shore power plug, and L2 from the distribution panel. So all I need to do is unhook them from the Multiplus and wire them together (power OFF - but what fun is that/). I guess I would need to reconnect the WFCO charger, but the solar probably will keep up.

Am I thinking straight, or do I have a cog loose?

Thanks
Keith

You're running straight pass through on the inverter on both legs, meaning, Plug > EMS > Inverter > Circuit breakers? If so, you don't need a switch. The transfer switch is built in to the inverter.

[Yoda]

You're running straight pass through on the inverter on both legs, meaning, Plug > EMS > Inverter > Circuit breakers? If so, you don't need a switch. The transfer switch is built in to the inverter.

Thanks Curtis
Correct - straight wiring.

I was wanting a simple way to bypass the Multiplus in case something was wrong, say the transfer switch failed where I could not get shore power, or another component failure, removing and tying the two power feeds L1 in and L2 out I bypasses the unit. And if I need battery charging I can hook up the WFCO as it will still be there - just 3 wires.

[ncitro]

Thanks Curtis
Correct - straight wiring.

I was wanting a simple way to bypass the Multiplus in case something was wrong, say the transfer switch failed where I could not get shore power, or another component failure, removing and tying the two power feeds L1 in and L2 out I bypasses the unit. And if I need battery charging I can hook up the WFCO as it will still be there - just 3 wires.

You’re right with the wire nuts. Easy to bypass right there temporarily

[Jlawles2]

Is that truly a 3 position multi pole switch? If so, then the Off position could be bypass.

[howson]

Is that truly a 3 position multi pole switch? If so, then the Off position could be bypass.

Unfortunately the middle position is connected to nothing--it creates an open in whatever line is connected (in Keith's scenario the hot line). That would kill all power to his trailer. SWMBO would not be happy, Yoda .

[Yoda]

Unfortunately the middle position is connected to nothing--it creates an open in whatever line is connected (in Keith's scenario the hot line). That would kill all power to his trailer. SWMBO would not be happy, Yoda .

Ya think! There would be no where for me to hide In this case I would be the horse

[Jlawles2]

I guess if you want quick bypass you would need something like https://www.bluesea.com/products/907...ns_240V_AC_65A

[Yoda]

I guess if you want quick bypass you would need something like https://www.bluesea.com/products/907...ns_240V_AC_65A

Might work to bypass LI (Shore In) from the converter to the distribution panel. Then I have the issue of L2 being hot (reverse powered) back to the inverter as they would both (bypass and L2 out of the Multiplus) would be tied to the distribution panel, unless there is another way to do it.

I think I will stick with the wire nuts - I always carry a few.

Thanks for the thought Joseph
Keith