Renogy 20 amp DC-DC Charger

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Guest

Is this the DC/DC you use?

https://www.amazon.ca/Renogy-Battery...968810259&th=1

[Guest]

DarnDave Scott'n'Wendy To answer several questions. Yes the DCDC posted is the one I use. The Renogy 20amp unit. I disconnected the black charge wire from the 7 way connector and connected this to the input of the Renogy that is located in the passthrough. I grounded both sides of the Renogy to the Imagine chassis after obtaining advice from an EE from GM. Make sure you keep the 7 way connector clean where I have felt it getting warm (not hot) so its good to clean it with CLR or other cleaners.
My 2000 Dodge (while working for Chrysler) was live all the time on the 7 way connector. I'm not sure of what each manufacturer is thinking where some may feel this circuit being critical for some low level battery charging should be as simple as possible, like our emergency brake away on the rig which does not even have a fuse. Who knows. But to throw a relay and fuse in the glove box is not a good idea where some have traveled for years not knowing their batteries are getting no charge from the TV. IMO the relay and fuse if used should be installed by the manufacturer in all cases.
I am not familiar with the "Charge Wizard".

There are many good batteries out there where I would not promote one brand over another. Battle Born, Lions Energy, AIMS and more are good batteries from experience where a battery completely assembled in China will cost less than one assembled here with parts from China. However if the selling company does not reside here, a warranty claim may be difficult to achieve.

Jim

[Country Campers]

Scott'n'Wendy

Renogy actually has a better price than amazon , 12V 20A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger | Renogy Solar. I have been watching this as I would like to get one also.

Brian

[Country Campers]

Woops, forgot the Canada thing. Not sure if Renogy ships to Ca or not might check though.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Country Campers
Thanks
I live a short drive from the border. I get things shipped to a place about 500 metres from the MN/ON border. Then I go over and import the item myself.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Very difficult finding info on the 7 pin connector. Trying to determine it's current carrying design spec.

[Country Campers]

Scott'n'Wendy

I have moved the DC-DC charger and 7 pin questions/comments to its own thread. This was getting off of the original topic, and there is plenty here to discuss.

Brian

[Country Campers]

Very difficult finding info on the 7 pin connector. Trying to determine it's current carrying design spec.

I did a little searching and could not find an amperage rating on the connecter, gbkims Gene, Do you know of any rating for the 7 pin connector on the RV or TV?

The only info I could find was that the wire size is most likely 12 ga for the brakes and the positive to the battery, the rest could be 16 ga.

Brian

[Guest]

My GM truck has a circuit rated for 35amp and is protected to 30amp. It would be good to check each vehicle individually. I also tested my Renogy outside the rig before installing. GM recommends Pollak connectors on all their trucks.

http://products.pollakaftermarket.co...ing-assemblies

Jim

[Scott'n'Wendy]

My findings agree with yours Brian, SAE J2863 spec calls for 12ga wire which would be safe for 20A on the gnd, 12v power, and brakes. The rest 16ga. - good for 10A.
Doesn't really specify the connectors but would think the male/female connectors should be designed to handle at least the equivalent amperage as the wire attached to them?

[gbkims]

Brian, Country Campers

I'd searched on 7-way connector specs awhile back.
Only thing I could find was in Pollak's MC-1217 catalog, and that RV 7-way connectors are supposed to meet SAE J2863 specs.

From the catalog - Pollak 7-Pole RV Style Socket 11-893 12V, 30 Amps.

Also as Jim says, probably vehicle specific on what amps the trailer tow +12V circuit can handle.
My Ram's TT +12V is 30A Fuse with 14 Awg wire that runs thru several in-line wiring harness connectors before it gets to the 7-way connector.
For fuses in my Ram 3500, the only thing I found was in the Upfitter Schematic has a section that shows:


The other thing I saw in the upfitter section was:
Ground Studs on the chassis/frame may be utilized as a grounding point with a 50A Maximum total load, see “Vehicle Ground Locations” section in the RAM Body Builder Guide, Electrical/Wiring Information.

My 2017's OEM Fuse Box to Bumper 7-way and Bed 7-way wiring:
PDC Fuse F30 >> C7, Pin 38 >> I221, Pin 1 (Left Wheel Well) >> I570, Pin E >> 68154464AC Y Harness (w OEM Splices) >> I580A 68171484AA >> Bed 7-Way

[Guest]

Brian, Country Campers

I'd searched on 7-way connector specs awhile back.
Only thing I could find was in Pollak's MC-1217 catalog, and that RV 7-way connectors are supposed to meet SAE J2863 specs.

From the catalog - Pollak 7-Pole RV Style Socket 11-893 12V, 30 Amps.

Also as Jim says, probably vehicle specific on what amps the trailer tow +12V circuit can handle.
My Ram's TT +12V is 30A Fuse with 14 Awg wire that runs thru several in-line wiring harness connectors before it gets to the 7-way connector.
For fuses in my Ram 3500, the only thing I found was in the Upfitter Schematic has a section that shows:


The other thing I saw in the upfitter section was:
Ground Studs on the chassis/frame may be utilized as a grounding point with a 50A Maximum total load, see “Vehicle Ground Locations” section in the RAM Body Builder Guide, Electrical/Wiring Information.

Gene,

If folks want true isolation and a lithium charge profile, the Renogy has a jumper that can be used that will result in 50% output. A solid 10amp (15amp startup, est 12 running) on a 20amp unit with the jumper wire in. This would not work for everyone but its easy and provides the proper separation. Of coarse dedicated wiring would allow for a larger unit as Howard has done with a 40amp unit.

Jim

[DarnDave]

Guest Country Campers Wow, thanks Jim and Brian! Just ordered direct from Renogy; free shipping with tax $120 for the 20 amp model. Do you guys think its OK to run a "sense" wire from the input terminal on the Renogy to the "signal input" terminal (like a jumper wire). Or does it need a completely separate wire run. My thinking is that the jumper would accomplish the same result. Even if I don't disconnect the RV from the TV hitch for the night, I unplug the 7 way cord. My batteries will be here soon and I want to install this at the same time. Also, should there also be a ground connection at the RV battery from the 7 way cord, or is it just directly grounded to the trailer frame, or both? Would it matter either way? I likely have a lot of connections going on in there with the inverter and factory solar and on board factory genset. I didn't install the current set of batteries, but figure if I take good pics and label stuff I should be OK to exchange the new ones myself.

Dave

[Country Campers]

DarnDave

What I found on my unit as far as ground wires was stuffed into the spray foam was a wire nut with a bunch of ground wires and one short one that attached to the metal structure, Yoda found this on his as well which led me to look at mine when installing my batteries. I removed the wire nut and added a ground buss bar and attached all grounds to it and then one to the metal structure/chassis. Then a wire from the ground buss to the shunt. I am going to try to wire the signal input from a side marker light as Guest Jim had done, not sure if this is doable on a fifth wheel or not but will try.

Brian

[Guest]

Same here Brian. I installed a ground buss bar and triggered the Renogy through the Imagine marker light wire which was near by the mounting location of the Renogy.

Jim