Not sure where to put this modification. I'd like to hear what others think of it and whether it could cause damage to the brakes, trailer, or TV. This video (starting about about 2:53) got me thinking that what I did might be a problem but I can't understand the reasoning behind the warnings given.
I wanted to be able to activate the trailer brakes via a switch. This is for short term and temporary use only in situations where I don't want to pull out chocks to hold the trailer. Primary example is when I return from a trip, and I'm a short distance from home, I like to pull to the road side and release my WDH while the truck and trailer are aligned (I have an Anderson hitch). The whole process is less than 5 minutes. One time I did this and forgot to remove the chocks! No trailer damage - just a set of plastic chocks now with asphalt sanded bottoms. Well never again - I though why not use the trailer brakes instead of chocks?.
Of course stepping on the brakes in the truck will activate the trailer brakes but I wanted to do this from the trailer itself. Another option is to pull the emergency brake pin but that is not advised and I don't want to mess with the that device.
The emergency brake did give me an idea. This wiring is very simple. A wire from the battery positive (which is also connected to the 7 pin plug black power line) is sent to the emergency brake device. This is then routed back to and connects into the blue brake line. The emergency brake pin holds two contacts open. If the trailer is pulled away, the pin is pulled, and the contacts close causing the brakes to be activated in full.
My thought. Install a parallel circuit with a switch to perform the same function. That is, a wire from the battery to a switch and then to the blue brake wire. I can then flip the switch to activate the brakes without touching the emergency brake device.
Simple enough. But I also wanted to be absolutely sure I didn't flip the switch and forget about it. So I uses a DPDT switch so when flipped on it would also activate a flashing light and clicker. The flashing light and loud clicking sounds will remind me to deactivate the switch/brakes before closing up the basement.
1st photo below of what this looks like at the panel basement. Switch is center top (high so that nothing accidentally hits and possibly activates the switch). Clicker is just behind panel where the very bright led light is mounted.
2nd and 3rd photo below shows what the A-frame electrical box looks like (3rd is just before the inline 10A fuse was put in and better shows the wiring). The first terminal on left is the battery negative/return and the second terminal is the battery positive terminal. Battery is upper right ring connector. Upper left ring connector is the wire to the jack which GD also crimped with the black line to the emergency brake. This then returns back to the brake terminal (#7 on the far right). When the pin is pulled power goes from the 2nd terminal to the 7th terminal. Emergency brake is the upper left ring connector to 7th terminal. Upper right goes to the brakes themselves. Lower left is from the trailer connector brake wire (blue). Lower right is my addition.
BTW, if anyone is interested, below is the original manufacture wiring. Notice the trailer cable isn't even clamped anywhere! One might recognize the 30A Optifuse (left of electric box mounted directly to A-frame) is not in the photo above. Rest assured this now is next to the battery inside the trailer to protect the wire routed from the battery to the A-frame box (2nd terminal upper right).
I wanted to be able to activate the trailer brakes via a switch. This is for short term and temporary use only in situations where I don't want to pull out chocks to hold the trailer. Primary example is when I return from a trip, and I'm a short distance from home, I like to pull to the road side and release my WDH while the truck and trailer are aligned (I have an Anderson hitch). The whole process is less than 5 minutes. One time I did this and forgot to remove the chocks! No trailer damage - just a set of plastic chocks now with asphalt sanded bottoms. Well never again - I though why not use the trailer brakes instead of chocks?.
Of course stepping on the brakes in the truck will activate the trailer brakes but I wanted to do this from the trailer itself. Another option is to pull the emergency brake pin but that is not advised and I don't want to mess with the that device.
The emergency brake did give me an idea. This wiring is very simple. A wire from the battery positive (which is also connected to the 7 pin plug black power line) is sent to the emergency brake device. This is then routed back to and connects into the blue brake line. The emergency brake pin holds two contacts open. If the trailer is pulled away, the pin is pulled, and the contacts close causing the brakes to be activated in full.
My thought. Install a parallel circuit with a switch to perform the same function. That is, a wire from the battery to a switch and then to the blue brake wire. I can then flip the switch to activate the brakes without touching the emergency brake device.
Simple enough. But I also wanted to be absolutely sure I didn't flip the switch and forget about it. So I uses a DPDT switch so when flipped on it would also activate a flashing light and clicker. The flashing light and loud clicking sounds will remind me to deactivate the switch/brakes before closing up the basement.
1st photo below of what this looks like at the panel basement. Switch is center top (high so that nothing accidentally hits and possibly activates the switch). Clicker is just behind panel where the very bright led light is mounted.
2nd and 3rd photo below shows what the A-frame electrical box looks like (3rd is just before the inline 10A fuse was put in and better shows the wiring). The first terminal on left is the battery negative/return and the second terminal is the battery positive terminal. Battery is upper right ring connector. Upper left ring connector is the wire to the jack which GD also crimped with the black line to the emergency brake. This then returns back to the brake terminal (#7 on the far right). When the pin is pulled power goes from the 2nd terminal to the 7th terminal. Emergency brake is the upper left ring connector to 7th terminal. Upper right goes to the brakes themselves. Lower left is from the trailer connector brake wire (blue). Lower right is my addition.
BTW, if anyone is interested, below is the original manufacture wiring. Notice the trailer cable isn't even clamped anywhere! One might recognize the 30A Optifuse (left of electric box mounted directly to A-frame) is not in the photo above. Rest assured this now is next to the battery inside the trailer to protect the wire routed from the battery to the A-frame box (2nd terminal upper right).
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