Battery Disconnect DOESNT??

[allenrude]

Hi All,

Want to relocate the stock battery disconnect in my 2022 28BH. Upon close inspection its clear that on or off i still have 12V to the coach, overhead lights, radio, the works. My assumption was that turn the switch one way you get 12V or so across the switch, off and you get zero. Either way no difference other than one way i get a crazy volt reading on my tester around 240V?? Also confused as to the wiring, i attach a picture of the back of the switch that shows a white wire on one side and a red on the other?? Assumed all i would find was one color or the other, not both. What am i missing? I thought that this would be an easy 60 min project. Maybe not.

[howson]

Hi All,

Want to relocate the stock battery disconnect in my 2022 28BH. Upon close inspection its clear that on or off i still have 12V to the coach, overhead lights, radio, the works. My assumption was that turn the switch one way you get 12V or so across the switch, off and you get zero. Either way no difference other than one way i get a crazy volt reading on my tester around 240V?? Also confused as to the wiring, i attach a picture of the back of the switch that shows a white wire on one side and a red on the other?? Assumed all i would find was one color or the other, not both. What am i missing? I thought that this would be an easy 60 min project. Maybe not.

Something's not right, that's for sure. I don't understand the 240V reference...I'd have to see the exact multimeter settings, the screen, and where the leads were connected. Are you sure it wasn't 240mV? Huge, gigantic, monumental difference.

Remember that if plugged into shore power the converter is providing 12V to the camper. Did you turn off the converter or disconnect from shore power?

If you have solar make sure there's no PV coming back through the system, too! The Solar Controller could be providing 12V to the camper even with the switch off. An easy way to remove PV is to cover the panel(s) with a blanket (make sure it won't blow off).

If the switch is still not working right, there's an easy way to check it. Pull the negative cable off the battery and safely stow the cable out of the way. Now disconnect one (or both) of the cables going to the disconnect switch. With the multimeter set to continuity (ohms) there should be an open (infinite resistance typically shown as "OL" on the meter) across the two connections on the disconnect with the switch when off (key can be removed). There should be almost no resistance, aka a "short" or no resistance, shown as 0 ohms or close to it on the multimeter with the disconnect in the "On" position (key will not remove).

[allenrude]

Thank you for the insights.

I am humbled by my own ignorance. Wish i could say that I am new to the RV world, but its 40 years to late to say that. So will rely on the old fall back of just getting old.. The switch works fine, it was the shore power connected that caused it to appear that the switch was not doing its job. Now i will shut up and get back to my 60 min project.

Thanks
Al

[Country Campers]

You will still find that the 2 wires going to the switch does not completely isolate the battery, there are things that "bypass" that switch (most of everything in some units).

Brian

[allenrude]

Hi Brian,

Thats exactly what i was going to chime in about today. While this switch does appear to cut off power to the inside control panel and everything that it controls, it does NOT cut off the power to the 12V fridge nor the 12V in the front battery compartment. So it would appear that my initial title to this post hit the mark. I assume that this configuration is intended so would be interested to hear from GD what the rationale for this would/could be??


Thanks
Al

[howson]

Hi Brian,

Thats exactly what i was going to chime in about today. While this switch does appear to cut off power to the inside control panel and everything that it controls, it does NOT cut off the power to the 12V fridge nor the 12V in the front battery compartment. So it would appear that my initial title to this post hit the mark. I assume that this configuration is intended so would be interested to hear from GD what the rationale for this would/could be??


Thanks
Al

Apparently (speculation) GD decided to make sure owners could not inadvertently turn off the refrigerator(s). There is an interior control on the frig to turn it off, right? Then if you can find the fuse (probably under the front "A" frame of the camper near the self-resetting breakers) that's another way to remove power.

However--for long term storage the way to ensure the battery is not drained is to remove the negative battery cable (the owner's manual states this as the proper method).

Sorry if I'm repeating myself, but installing a "true" disconnect is what many of us have done with the rationale that the powered tongue jack won't work if it's off, so there's little chance of "forgetting" the turn it back on prior to towing. (The OEM configuration MUST be established while towing to ensure emergency battery power to the brakes should there be a disconnect event.)

While you're at it...add the two disconnects for the solar, too.

[skrantzman]

Apparently (speculation) GD decided to make sure owners could not inadvertently turn off the refrigerator(s). There is an interior control on the frig to turn it off, right?

Just picked up a very slightly used (less than a year old) Transcend Xplor 240ML two weeks ago. So as a new GD owner, I decided to read the owners manual. My impression is that for units with the solar package, GD designed it so that the 12v only refrigerator would stay on after battery disconnect. My experience is that the 165w solar panel is enough to keep the refrigerator cold (at least in off grid mode) and still have enough power left to keep the battery charged. The two benefits are, one that the refrigerator will still work if the battery disconnect is unintentional left engaged. Two, your refrigerator is already cold when you start preparing for your next trip during the on season. In the manual, GD clearly states the refrigerator will not turn off if the battery disconnect is engaged. To turn off the refrigerator you need to use the switch inside the refrigerator.

Normally I would agree with the full disconnect idea during the off season, but am wondering (assuming you manually turn off the refrigerator) if it might be wiser to just use the manufacture installed battery disconnect, so that the solar panel can keep the battery charged. I am sure that your geographic, and storage location would play a big factor in that decision.

Steve

[Jlawles2]

skrantzman Unfortunately the battery disconnect leaves a lot of parasitic draw items still connected. For example, Refrigerator, brakes, jacks / leveling system, gas detector, smoke detector, radio, etc. Not to mention the main power to several accessories that are controlled by the onboard system (Unity boards). If the solar cannot keep up with the parasitic draw items, the battery will get drained past the "safe" level which could lead to freezing, in ability to take charge, decrease in charge potential, etc.

I think the primary reason they leave things still connected has as much to do with "convenience". Radio so you do not have to reset the time, Ref so things do not spoil, etc. But the brakes is a safety thing and with the disconnect in the basement, they have been known to get bumped and accidentally turned resulting in loss of power.

[howson]

In the manual, GD clearly states the refrigerator will not turn off if the battery disconnect is engaged. -Steve

You READ the manual?

I hope you'll read the Welcome Letter too, Steve, and become a regular contributor. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

-Howard

[howson]

WickedJulesTikiAl -- moved your post to it's own thread here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...harger-upgrade

[skrantzman]

You READ the manual?

Yah, I know, it’s an anomaly for a man to read directions. But I figured for the amount I paid, it is worth breaking the unspoken rule, so I don’t mess it up!

[Guest]

allenrude An easy way to deal with battery drain is to connect both wires on your switch to one side and run a new dedicated fused battery wire to the switch. However this will result in the battery brake away switch being ran through the switch with this modification where some may not feel comfortable doing this. A stand alone battery brake away kit can be purchased but since the front jack will also require the switch to be on (as well as fridge) I passed on the break away battery backup option. It would be impossible to forget the switch in our case for travel.
When my slide failed to retract at a campsite years ago, I looked over the manual and discovered the override mode. I read most of it after that issue. lol

Jim

[allenrude]

Thanks all for the feedback. I accomplished my original goal which was to switch out the battery disconnect moving it into the front battery compartment and getting it out of the baggage pass thru. It was only as a part of that project that the issue of what was or was not disconnected by the switch came up. Now that i have a pretty good idea of what the switch actually does, i can deal with it in the future. Thanks to all for the feedback.

[Mike & Charlotte]

I’ve learned this the hard way. With my Keystone Passport I would disconnect the negative battery cable while in storage. When I bought my GD Reflection I was pleased that it had a battery disconnect. But, for the 3rd time, the battery has been dead when I return 3 weeks later to hook up. Now I’m concerned that the battery is sulfated from being dead so many times. The One Control app only shows a battery charge level of only 12.2-12.7 volts. I’m going to disconnect the negative cable and hook up the solar trickle charge panel, when we return this time and see where it’s at when go out Memorial Day weekend.

[JBill9694]

Welcome to the forum Mike & Charlotte

I share your concern about the battery having been discharged three times and wanted to suggest you pull it and have it tested to see if any or all of the cells are fried. Sounds like you have some previous RV experience and probably know that if you're going to be on shore power over Memorial Day you'll probably be okay even if the battery is weak, but if boondocking a good battery is vital to an enjoyable weekend.