11 Mar Update: This idea shown in this post did not help long-term. I have abandoned the idea. I've left the thread so others who may be considering trying it can benefit from my experience. -Howard
What you'll see in my video below is not a time-tested process. What you're going to see is my first attempt using the Motion Pro tool I bought.
I haven't seen anyone else use this tool for this purpose, so hopefully this is an original post. (I usually "steal" the ideas of others--but try to credit them when I can remember who they are.)
The video below ends abruptly (I fired the videographer) so just trust me that the cables work much better. (There's a storm rolling through NW Florida now so any further videoing will have to wait.)
What I learned during the process of using the Motion Pro tool is that it works on the dump cables, but not instantaneously. Holding the tool in place under pressure to allow the lubricant to work it's magic is a key step. I suspect that if I repeat the process more lubricant will make it down the cable making it easier to use.
Let me repeat for emphasis: this is not a time-tested process. There may be unintended consequences I haven't thought of (or experienced). I'll update this thread as appropriate.
For those that have followed Cate&Rob 's plumbing threads you'll know that he incorporated "bomber doors" into his coroplast so he can access his dump valves and cables for cleaning and lubrication. He's often commented that some difficulties with cable operation is due to routing. That can only be fixed by dropping the coroplast and taking some of the bend out of their original installation location.
My dump valves worked OK right from the beginning (I've owned the camper about 1.5 years) so the current difficulty is not due to the initial installation. It's corrosion in the cable. There could be some problem at the valve itself, too. I also tried the canola oil trick I first saw on Youtube, so we'll see if it helps, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFS0ry19tTU
What you'll see in my video below is not a time-tested process. What you're going to see is my first attempt using the Motion Pro tool I bought.
I haven't seen anyone else use this tool for this purpose, so hopefully this is an original post. (I usually "steal" the ideas of others--but try to credit them when I can remember who they are.)
The video below ends abruptly (I fired the videographer) so just trust me that the cables work much better. (There's a storm rolling through NW Florida now so any further videoing will have to wait.)
What I learned during the process of using the Motion Pro tool is that it works on the dump cables, but not instantaneously. Holding the tool in place under pressure to allow the lubricant to work it's magic is a key step. I suspect that if I repeat the process more lubricant will make it down the cable making it easier to use.
Let me repeat for emphasis: this is not a time-tested process. There may be unintended consequences I haven't thought of (or experienced). I'll update this thread as appropriate.
For those that have followed Cate&Rob 's plumbing threads you'll know that he incorporated "bomber doors" into his coroplast so he can access his dump valves and cables for cleaning and lubrication. He's often commented that some difficulties with cable operation is due to routing. That can only be fixed by dropping the coroplast and taking some of the bend out of their original installation location.
My dump valves worked OK right from the beginning (I've owned the camper about 1.5 years) so the current difficulty is not due to the initial installation. It's corrosion in the cable. There could be some problem at the valve itself, too. I also tried the canola oil trick I first saw on Youtube, so we'll see if it helps, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFS0ry19tTU
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