Continuing plumbing water leaks

[Sully]

I will be removing what the owners manual calls “universal docking station” to replace the city water inlet connection and the spray port faucet, both of which are leaking. I want to lay the panel forward and inspect for other possible hidden leaks from cone washers, crimped connectors, or whatever I find. I plan on also installing a fresh water pressure gage downstream of the water inlet check valve that Rob recommends installing. I have removed the visible screws, but now appears I need to crawl into the pass through storage to find screws that remain holding it in place.

Does anyone have experience working on this panel or pulling out for component replacement. I did find a YouTube video similar but it did not show holding screw locations or really any precautions/ recommendations. When I crawl in maybe it will be obvious. Thanks

[Cate&Rob]

Sully

It is highly unlikely that you will find enough slack in all the connections behind that panel to be able to pull the panel out. Many of these connections are made after the panel is in place. When you look behind your panel . . . you will see something like the attached picture. Welcome to the world of RV plumbing . . .

Rob

[Sully]

Well this is going to be fun. Seems like it should come forward a little? Not sure how I’m going to fit my hands back in there to change out any parts. Not a good design at all

[Sully]

I found this YouTube video for working on the https://youtu.be/mPbcRwi9XEk

[ncitro]

I replaced/upgraded mine and converted it to all PEX. I used the plastic PEX manifolds to bring most of the lines off the valves and got the fittings away from the panel. I did it all from the back with it still mounted, crawled into my pass through (had to empty it) and did it all in a few hours. I've got a bad back and didn't find it too bad. At least it's not over your head once you're in there.

[Country Campers]

Sully

Here is a link to a thread that may help you. There are a few pictures that will show what is behind your panel. Also a few links to other threads.

Water line mapping - Grand Design Owners Forums (gdrvowners.com)

Brian

[Sully]

Working on removing the internal mounting screws on the panel. There are 2 on the top & 2 on the bottom. Extremely difficult to get to. Had to crawl into the pass through storage and work with one hand to reach in past all the interference through the 5 inch space. I’ve got two but have to take a break. I’m in Peoria, Az and it’s 110 degrees out. Extremely poor design. I will be totally changing how this panel is mounted - if and when I get it out enough to replace the original leaking / defective components

[Sully]

I was successful in disconnecting the panel and laying back for better access. I crawled in the pass through storage and used a mini ratchet to reach behind the panel to remove the 4 retaining screws. This was a very difficult task, reaching through the 5 inch space around all the interference. Could only get one arm / hand in at a time and it was by feel only. Could not see while using the tool. I put an exercise yoga mat down to give me a little padding while I worked on it. With the panel folded back, I replaced the city water inlet connection with an upgraded model featuring brass threads / internals instead of plastic. Also replaced the outside shower faucet and all of the associated cone washers. Performed a 1 hour ISLT at 50 psig verified by a new inlet regulator and gage. When complete, I will remount the panel. However this time I will secure in a fashion allowing access to any required screws / fasteners from the front of the panel so I will never ever have to come in from the back again.

once this project is complete I will move on to installing an accumulator on the discharge of the water pump to compensate for temperature induced pressure changes from the water heater and also dampen the pump oscillations.

[TravelHabit]

... However this time I will secure in a fashion allowing access to any required screws / fasteners from the front of the panel so I will never ever have to come in from the back again.

That's exactly what I did for my 22RBE. After marking a line where the panel sat on the floor, I vertically screwed in a 1x1 strip to the floor. I then used screws to horizontally screw the panel base to this strip. I placed the screws on the edge so the would be hidden by the bracket on the left and the drain plastic pan on the right. This was extremely useful ... I needed access at least 5-8 times since doing this. That first one was a bear though. As you now know the last screw is extremely difficult to get to.