Washing machine on/off valve

[Wileykid]

The on/off valve for the washing machine will not shut the water off. I was de-winterizing the trailer, turn the valve on (really shouldn't have), and now the valve will not shut the water off completely. I tried to take the enclosure out to see what I would need to do if I needed to replace it, but the lines are too tight to pull it out. I pull the handle off, and rotated the internal part of the valve 180*, but that did not work. The valve will rotate, although I did not rotate it much, just in case. As you can see, I have a temporary solution, and if needed, I will wait until the season is over to pull the bottom off.

My question is, can I pull out the internals and transfer the valve to the other side to see if that works, I would have to rotate the valve 45* in order to do that. Or if someone knows a solution?

[howson]

My question is, can I pull out the internals and transfer the valve to the other side to see if that works, I would have to rotate the valve 45* in order to do that. Or if someone knows a solution?

Those washer connections are in the garage. (Shown below for other reader's reference.)



Assuming the valve must be replaced, the only way I can see to do it (assuming no access from the rear either through the bathroom or living room) is to lower the coroplast and find the water line. Perhaps there's a strap or clamp that can be loosened that will allow you to push up on the line so enough of the valve sticks up to allow a replacement to be installed.

I'm totally spitballing here, though, using what I've seen in my 315RLTS' washer setup.

Hopefully someone else will have a better idea. Please document (and report back) what you do to eventually fix it.

Howard

[TribForce]

The on/off valve for the washing machine will not shut the water off. I was de-winterizing the trailer, turn the valve on (really shouldn't have), and now the valve will not shut the water off completely. I tried to take the enclosure out to see what I would need to do if I needed to replace it, but the lines are too tight to pull it out. I pull the handle off, and rotated the internal part of the valve 180*, but that did not work. The valve will rotate, although I did not rotate it much, just in case. As you can see, I have a temporary solution, and if needed, I will wait until the season is over to pull the bottom off.

My question is, can I pull out the internals and transfer the valve to the other side to see if that works, I would have to rotate the valve 45* in order to do that. Or if someone knows a solution?

I have the same problem with how tight these fittings are to the bottom of the black housing. In Colorado I need to be able to winterize and de-winterize these lines, so the valves need to work. Last year I did not flush the antifreeze out of these lines and the half-bath sink never stopped foaming all summer.

[Country Campers]

I think these lines are visible from the pass thru storage, on the ceiling. You may want to install a couple of shut off valves, 3 way would be great, in that area. You could shut off and drain these lines from below and also not have the water in the line up to the washer hook up if you are not using them. Some sort of that iteration should be doable I think.

Brian

[Wileykid]

I have the same problem with how tight these fittings are to the bottom of the black housing. In Colorado I need to be able to winterize and de-winterize these lines, so the valves need to work. Last year I did not flush the antifreeze out of these lines and the half-bath sink never stopped foaming all summer.

I knew I shouldn't have, as the valve seemed like it was going to be a problem when I winterized it, but being a little OCD, I wanted all the lines cleaned. It is only me with the trailer, the toilet in the rear half bathroom has never been "used", other than running regular water through it to keep the seal playable, winterized during the winter. I do use the sink.

[Wileykid]

I think these lines are visible from the pass thru storage, on the ceiling. You may want to install a couple of shut off valves, 3 way would be great, in that area. You could shut off and drain these lines from below and also not have the water in the line up to the washer hook up if you are not using them. Some sort of that iteration should be doable I think.

Brian

That is a great thought, will look into it. Identifying the line will be interesting, maybe hook a hose the the outlet and routing it outside (already flooded the garage once), running the hot water and seeing which line heats up. Ultimately, I would like the valve to work properly.