Washing machine on/off valve

[Wileykid]

The on/off valve for the washing machine will not shut the water off. I was de-winterizing the trailer, turn the valve on (really shouldn't have), and now the valve will not shut the water off completely. I tried to take the enclosure out to see what I would need to do if I needed to replace it, but the lines are too tight to pull it out. I pull the handle off, and rotated the internal part of the valve 180*, but that did not work. The valve will rotate, although I did not rotate it much, just in case. As you can see, I have a temporary solution, and if needed, I will wait until the season is over to pull the bottom off.

My question is, can I pull out the internals and transfer the valve to the other side to see if that works, I would have to rotate the valve 45* in order to do that. Or if someone knows a solution?

[howson]

My question is, can I pull out the internals and transfer the valve to the other side to see if that works, I would have to rotate the valve 45* in order to do that. Or if someone knows a solution?

Those washer connections are in the garage. (Shown below for other reader's reference.)



Assuming the valve must be replaced, the only way I can see to do it (assuming no access from the rear either through the bathroom or living room) is to lower the coroplast and find the water line. Perhaps there's a strap or clamp that can be loosened that will allow you to push up on the line so enough of the valve sticks up to allow a replacement to be installed.

I'm totally spitballing here, though, using what I've seen in my 315RLTS' washer setup.

Hopefully someone else will have a better idea. Please document (and report back) what you do to eventually fix it.

Howard

[TribForce]

The on/off valve for the washing machine will not shut the water off. I was de-winterizing the trailer, turn the valve on (really shouldn't have), and now the valve will not shut the water off completely. I tried to take the enclosure out to see what I would need to do if I needed to replace it, but the lines are too tight to pull it out. I pull the handle off, and rotated the internal part of the valve 180*, but that did not work. The valve will rotate, although I did not rotate it much, just in case. As you can see, I have a temporary solution, and if needed, I will wait until the season is over to pull the bottom off.

My question is, can I pull out the internals and transfer the valve to the other side to see if that works, I would have to rotate the valve 45* in order to do that. Or if someone knows a solution?

I have the same problem with how tight these fittings are to the bottom of the black housing. In Colorado I need to be able to winterize and de-winterize these lines, so the valves need to work. Last year I did not flush the antifreeze out of these lines and the half-bath sink never stopped foaming all summer.

[Country Campers]

I think these lines are visible from the pass thru storage, on the ceiling. You may want to install a couple of shut off valves, 3 way would be great, in that area. You could shut off and drain these lines from below and also not have the water in the line up to the washer hook up if you are not using them. Some sort of that iteration should be doable I think.

Brian

[Wileykid]

I have the same problem with how tight these fittings are to the bottom of the black housing. In Colorado I need to be able to winterize and de-winterize these lines, so the valves need to work. Last year I did not flush the antifreeze out of these lines and the half-bath sink never stopped foaming all summer.

I knew I shouldn't have, as the valve seemed like it was going to be a problem when I winterized it, but being a little OCD, I wanted all the lines cleaned. It is only me with the trailer, the toilet in the rear half bathroom has never been "used", other than running regular water through it to keep the seal playable, winterized during the winter. I do use the sink.

[Wileykid]

I think these lines are visible from the pass thru storage, on the ceiling. You may want to install a couple of shut off valves, 3 way would be great, in that area. You could shut off and drain these lines from below and also not have the water in the line up to the washer hook up if you are not using them. Some sort of that iteration should be doable I think.

Brian

That is a great thought, will look into it. Identifying the line will be interesting, maybe hook a hose the the outlet and routing it outside (already flooded the garage once), running the hot water and seeing which line heats up. Ultimately, I would like the valve to work properly.

[Wileykid]

I have the same problem with how tight these fittings are to the bottom of the black housing. In Colorado I need to be able to winterize and de-winterize these lines, so the valves need to work. Last year I did not flush the antifreeze out of these lines and the half-bath sink never stopped foaming all summer.

I pulled out the fireplace (due to it breaking), and found they ran the water lines to those valves behind the fireplace, not under the floor. The fireplace is inline with the outlet, so the line goes from the fireplace area, up in-between the wall to the garage for maybe a foot to the valve. My plan now is to cut the lines and pull the whole outlet out so I can get the line off the valve and replace it. Only problem is I need to take a closer look at the drain and see how it is secured to the housing. I really don't want to cut it. I am not sure when I will do this, as the cap on the valve is working, so this may be a winter project.



I added the picture below of the lines going up the wall. The valves are about a foot up from the cutout. The white waste valve (
https://legacy.granddesignrv.com/ifr...ts-detail/1299) has a compression fitting on the top, and screws into the black waste line on the bottom. I have a medium hand, and no way could I unscrew the compression fitting, too small of an area. The drain in the housing is not screwed down, and rotates when you twist the white waste valve, so when I get to it, I should be able to just unscrew the waste valve off the black waste line, cut the water lines, and it should just pull through from the top. After fixing the valve, should be able to shove through from the top, re-screw the waste valve back on, repair the cut lines, and be done. Knowing I would be doing Pex stuff, I bought the tools to work on Pex several months ago.

[Reacher]

If you remove the four black screws that hold the washer valve panel there should be enough slack in the hoses to allow you to pull it out enough to service these valves.

[Wileykid]

If you remove the four black screws that hold the washer valve panel there should be enough slack in the hoses to allow you to pull it out enough to service these valves.

Unfortunately there isn't, the lines are pulled tight with maybe 2" of slack. Tried it already. Also, the drain line is rigid. I will updating the last post with a picture of the hard line, and a way to disconnect it.

[JBill9694]

Maybe a couple of small pipe/mini strap pipe wrenches for the drainpipe?

Based on past encounters, I would also see if that screw on left side of the added picture in post 7 can be backed out before I stabbed myself.

[Wileykid]

Maybe a couple of small pipe/mini strap pipe wrenches for the drainpipe?

Based on past encounters, I would also see if that screw on left side of the added picture in post 7 can be backed out before I stabbed myself.

The white waste valve can be unscrewed by hand.

That screw if for the entertainment system, and when I work on it, I will take it out. I do have a good stock of band aids for when I work on things.

[Wileykid]

My local RV dealer had the new valve that I needed for only $2 more than online, so bought it. Repair didn't take very long, and pressure tested with no leaks. Funny thing, while cleaning, found a black rubber o-ring on the black floor in a corner, tore the old valve apart, it fit, and now I have an extra valve.