Disclaimer: In general, this forum is intended to be a place for Grand Design owners to gather and exchange ideas regarding their use of and experiences with Grand Design products. Any information contained in the forum should be independently verified by checking with Grand Design, one of its authorized dealers, or reviewing your owner’s manual.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will need to to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Thanks for visiting and your interest in Grand Design!
Another "random thought" on this . . .
If you have a gravity fill port, (which I realize we don't all have) why not just vent the cap on this fill port to provide air into the tank while pumping water out? Drilling a 1/4" hole in the cap (or leaving it off while camping) should end up being the same as running a new hose from the tank overflow to the screened vent beside the fill port.
Another "random thought" on this . . .
If you have a gravity fill port, (which I realize we don't all have) why not just vent the cap on this fill port to provide air into the tank while pumping water out? Drilling a 1/4" hole in the cap (or leaving it off while camping) should end up being the same as running a new hose from the tank overflow to the screened vent beside the fill port.
Rob
Rob - you did it again - Genius
That would work, and they actually make caps with a vent built in - problem is finding one as most are on gas tanks for lawn mowers etc. He did say he felt air coming out the screen too. Would pulling the fill port off the side of the trailer confirm this? There should be a second tub running to the tank? Otherwise the only time he would need to open the valve is when filling. However having the cap off the gravity fill port would do the same thing too in the event he fails to open the valve. Scyry - just go to HD or Lowes and get a 3/4 shark bite ball valve and I believe your problem will be solved - just open when filling. Having the gravity fill cap off too wont hurt just in case you get sidetracked.
2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
Agree venting the cap would be the same. I would like some default/clean venting if the ball valve is inadvertently left in the off position. I believe the reason GDRV does not use the gravity vent alone is to prevent over pressurizing the tank with a water hose. So they opted for the overflow......which loses water while traveling.
Running a vent line higher than the gravity fill vent would prevent rain or dirt from entering the tank.
I think the vent to the side of the cap just connects to the main pipe for the gravity feed. So as long as the gravity fill line isn't full of water, it should allow air to go back and forth. My thought is to fill the tank until water is coming out the overflow. Close the fresh tank fill valve in the pass through panel, and make sure everything is closed inside. Then I'm going to see if air is sucking in the gravity port as the water is draining out the overflow. If air is going in, I should be good right? Other option is after I have a closed valve on the end of the overflow, to pressurize the fresh tank fill with some air from an air compressor, say less than 20 psi. If air comes out of the gravity port, I should be good also. With those two tests I should be able to prove if I need to have an air vac valve or not.
Can you get a look at the back side of your gravity fill fitting? If the screened vent Ts into the main hose, it would be the first one reported to be like this. If you go back through previous pictures, this vent is either left open or closed off with silicone.
I think the vent to the side of the cap just connects to the main pipe for the gravity feed. So as long as the gravity fill line isn't full of water, it should allow air to go back and forth. My thought is to fill the tank until water is coming out the overflow. Close the fresh tank fill valve in the pass through panel, and make sure everything is closed inside. Then I'm going to see if air is sucking in the gravity port as the water is draining out the overflow. If air is going in, I should be good right? Other option is after I have a closed valve on the end of the overflow, to pressurize the fresh tank fill with some air from an air compressor, say less than 20 psi. If air comes out of the gravity port, I should be good also. With those two tests I should be able to prove if I need to have an air vac valve or not.
Any differing opinions?
You plan is OK except for one issue DO NOT PUT 20 PSI IN THE WATER TANK. You will do severe damage. I am not sure if you even need the air pressure test. If you feel air moving in from the gravity fill port when draining the tank you should be fine.
2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
Can you get a look at the back side of your gravity fill fitting? If the screened vent Ts into the main hose, it would be the first one reported to be like this. If you go back through previous pictures, this vent is either left open or closed off with silicone.
Rob
Not the best picture but the vent has silicone or something on the back side of it. It is the bottom of the two pipes coming through the wall.
Not the best picture but the vent has silicone or something on the back side of it. It is the bottom of the two pipes coming through the wall.
@Scyry
When zooming on your pic it can be seen your gravity fill vent is not connected at the 2 O clock position where it's covered with silicone. So you have several good options that were all discussed.
Something that is critically important. The flat low profile tank can be damaged by filling or drawing water via the pump with a ball valve installed and closed on the blue overflow tube. So folks have to remember to open the valve during these processes.
To close the loop, went out for our second trip. Threw a 1/2" dia., Sharkbite ball valve on the end, because the week got away from me to do anything more. Tested the setup before I left, the gravity fill line with the cap slightly loosened, allows air to get to the tank. So kept the ball valve closed until we broke camp, no issues. Thanks everyone for the help. My next plumbing mod will likely be a small pressure tank so the pump doesn't have to kick on so much, I have a lot of room between my water heater and regular heater. So besides being an awkward place to get to, I don't think it will be too hard to make the addition.
I have water coming out of that same blue pipe but I have never used my fresh water tank and the control panel still reads empty. Is there any other reason water would be coming out of this blue pipe?
Originally posted by pdasilva82@gmail.comView Post
I have water coming out of that same blue pipe but I have never used my fresh water tank and the control panel still reads empty. Is there any other reason water would be coming out of this blue pipe?
What model do you have?
Pull the white drain for the fresh water tank and see if it is full.
Brian
Brian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
Another "random thought" on this . . .
If you have a gravity fill port, (which I realize we don't all have) why not just vent the cap on this fill port to provide air into the tank while pumping water out? Drilling a 1/4" hole in the cap (or leaving it off while camping) should end up being the same as running a new hose from the tank overflow to the screened vent beside the fill port.
Rob
There may be a simpler solution.
In days past on my old RV the cap itself had a built in vent. It looked similar to this one. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa...ils=.questions I have a question into etrailer asking if the cap is vented. If the cap is vented and he has the overflow valve closed he should be fine for everything except power Filling the tank when the valve on the overflow must be open.
2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
Recently purchased '24 Imagine 17MKE and first two trips out I was frustrated to get to campground and find that much of my preloaded fresh water seemed to have disappeared. During this last trip did notice that water was coming out of one of the lines underneath, and read in the owners manual that this is normal while traveling. Reading this forum has helped immensely to understand more. This new RV does have a secondary, gravity fill on the opposite side of the city hose hookup. Have now learned - and tested - to ensure that when pressure filling that air is releasing through the small vent beside the gravity fill.
An overflow line valve will soon be installed under the trailer!! Thanks
Comment