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When you “burp” the system by opening a faucet, the system pressure should drop very quickly to below city or pump start pressure, which should be in the 40 psi range. Why is your system staying above 90 psi?
howson I may not have been clear. There was NO water exiting the pressure relief valve when I opened it. I opened it after releasing pressure to the system from inside. The "little bit" was in reference to how long I opened the low point drain.
Cate&Rob I have no idea why the system maintains the high pressure after the burp. Heater is still on heat, pump still on. As stated before, we hardly ever run off of city water. I prefer to have the pump do the water pushing. More apt to know if something is going wrong.
On a positive note, while I had the access area open I decided the run a 12AWG direct ground wire for the pump the the negative buss bar to try and eliminate the light flicker when on DC. That worked out real well. That was part of the four night shakedown to see of after adding the Lifepo4 the flicker would subside. That was a no.
Grand Design Imagine 2450RL 2020 born 7/2019
TV - 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 4X4 Limited w/Towing PKG under 30K miles, hanger queen until now
Since this has been going on since the "re-plumb" I wonder what has changed when the plumbing was done? Do you have before and after pics? Was there any changes to line routes? There has to be something that has caused this issue, burping the system is a small fix that should not have to be done.
Brian
Honestly it was a two day job onsite and other that a little helping when needed, I stayed out of the way and fished. Did not take pics.
Grand Design Imagine 2450RL 2020 born 7/2019
TV - 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 4X4 Limited w/Towing PKG under 30K miles, hanger queen until now
I have no idea why the system maintains the high pressure after the burp.
Either the pump is putting out an unusually high pressure (not likely for this type of pump) or your gauge is not reading correctly. When the pump shuts off, water pressure will be somewhere around 50 psi . . . does your gauge agree?
So with the pex and flex line, it could be that they are acting as a bladder. OP, try leaving both the hot and cold water faucets on for 1-2 seconds to see how far down the pressure will drop. I typically would do the HOT only as this should relieve pressure on both the hot line and the cold line. Remember the hot out of the HWH has a check valve thus it will maintain high pressure if the cold is only burped.
Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
Either the pump is putting out an unusually high pressure (not likely for this type of pump) or your gauge is not reading correctly. When the pump shuts off, water pressure will be somewhere around 50 psi . . . does your gauge agree?
Rob
I was starting to lean on a high reading on the gauge so I hooked it up to my air compressor, set pressure at 100, gauge reading, about 106. Before that, I let the rig sit overnight and most of the day. "Indicated" pressure was 60 in the morning, 43 ambient temperature in the morning, ambient went to about 54 and indicated was about 62. Started gas heat in the water heater. Went to indicated 140 and water seeping from the pump and some accumulation in the bedpan.
So, what changed? eliminated expandable flex lines, installed very limited expandable PEX lines.
So, new crosscheck camping conversation now and here on. Has Leonard been burped? Has his bedpan been checked lately?
Grand Design Imagine 2450RL 2020 born 7/2019
TV - 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 4X4 Limited w/Towing PKG under 30K miles, hanger queen until now
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