Slide out not working, only clicking

[Dave27]

BlueDuck the can adjustment is easy as described. I hope it works for you.
Dave

[Jlawles2]

Jlawles2 Hi Joseph,

A solution to getting the slide moving outward might be to use “Slide Slickers”. I have been using these for years. I pull the slide in about 4” and then jam the strips as far as I can, in under the slide ends. The slide then rides on these, protecting the floor . . . but, maybe also covering the divot that you may have ?

Rob

I use those on the rollers on the kitchen. On the sofa side, i would need to put them at the outer edge of the slide wall.

I've though about trying to shove kydex plates in there or an AL strip for support.

[Cate&Rob]

i would need to put them at the outer edge of the slide wall.

That is exactly where I place them for the curb side slide.

Rob

[guest2]

I have not seen inside the can yet but I am guessing that there is a nut that needs to be moved. The process you are explaining is how I would do it. Also worth noting to NOT hold the button when retracting or extending this type of slide for too long, one or 2 clicks is all that is needed.

Brian

My reaction time isn’t that fast 🙄

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Jlawles2 I pull the slide in about 4” and then jam the strips as far as I can, in under the slide ends.

Rob

Do you wedge them under a j-roller or does the slide ride up and onto the slicker?

[Cate&Rob]

Do you wedge them under a j-roller or does the slide ride up and onto the slicker?

The “ski” on the underside of the slide box end rides up on the slide slicker strip.

Rob

[Scott'n'Wendy]

The “ski” on the underside of the slide box end rides up on the slide slicker strip.

Rob

Hmmm. I'll need to investigate in the spring. I'm not sure what you mean by 'ski'. I thought the slide 'rolled' on those wide rollers.

[BlueDuck]

The "stop can" adjustment did not work for me. I worked with the dealer and will get the 295RL in for service in a few weeks, most likely after a trip south in mid Jan. With the can completely backed of and bringing the slide in until the bulb seal is properly compressed on the kitchen slide, it would still ratchet when trying open.

For what it's worth - I did capture some data that might be helpful to others. I marked off the can in 90 degree rotation marks. I measured the distance to the wall and determined that a 1/4 rotation of the can results in 1/16" movement of the can.

I'll report back after the extended warranty service work.

[Cate&Rob]

Hmmm. I'll need to investigate in the spring. I'm not sure what you mean by 'ski'. I thought the slide 'rolled' on those wide rollers.

The curb side slide (dining table and recliners) does not have rollers. It slides on a plastic rub strip, to keep it as low to the main floor as possible. (Later models that actually drop down when extended may have rollers . . . I'm not sure about this). Most of the weight of the slide box seems to be carried by the ends of the box and the plastic corner trim "skis" . . . although I do see wear strips on the underside of the slide box . . . not sure what causes these.

Rob

[Popga]

The "stop can" adjustment did not work for me. I worked with the dealer and will get the 295RL in for service in a few weeks, most likely after a trip south in mid Jan. With the can completely backed of and bringing the slide in until the bulb seal is properly compressed on the kitchen slide, it would still ratchet when trying open.

For what it's worth - I did capture some data that might be helpful to others. I marked off the can in 90 degree rotation marks. I measured the distance to the wall and determined that a 1/4 rotation of the can results in 1/16" movement of the can.

I'll report back after the extended warranty service work.

Greetings David!

I was having the same issues with my curbside slide. After trouble shooting the slide and can adjustments, the tech at Lippert suggested replacing the actuator. I reluctantly did so, but it solved the problem. Maybe they had some actuator issues for our year trailers. Now the drivers' side is starting the same thing. I'll try the adjustments again, but will likely end up being the actuator again.

I'm glad you have extended warranty coverage. I do also, but could not get scheduled for 6 months, so I ordered a OEM Lippert replacement actuator without the motor on Amazon did it myself.

Good luck!

Erik

[reubenray]

Slides not working are my biggest fear when traveling. I had troubles with them on both my Tiffin and Newmar motorhomes.

[Popga]

reubenray

Raymond,

Those were likely Schwintek, ya? The rack and pinion gears on the larger slides are much more robust, but if they won't open or close under power, make sure to read your manual before trying to crank them manually. It is very easy when done correctly. If not done correctly the rods used to extend the crank bolts can easily break where they are pinned to the bolt (experience there).

Also, it seems when the slide won't start to extend, whether from needing adjustment or a new actuator, about 1 manual turn on the bolt will often allow the motor to engage without the clutch slipping, and will extend the rest of the way under power.

A good plan if concerned with the slide is read and re-read the manual section on slides, in advance of needing to extend it in thew dark and rain, and practice it a time or 2 at home.

Erik

[reubenray]

reubenray

Raymond,

Those were likely Schwintek, ya? The rack and pinion gears on the larger slides are much more robust, but if they won't open or close under power, make sure to read your manual before trying to crank them manually. It is very easy when done correctly. If not done correctly the rods used to extend the crank bolts can easily break where they are pinned to the bolt (experience there).

Also, it seems when the slide won't start to extend, whether from needing adjustment or a new actuator, about 1 manual turn on the bolt will often allow the motor to engage without the clutch slipping, and will extend the rest of the way under power.

A good plan if concerned with the slide is read and re-read the manual section on slides, in advance of needing to extend it in thew dark and rain, and practice it a time or 2 at home.

Erik

The Lippert controller is the same that was in the Tiffin. I had to several times get on the phone and push buttons while laying flat on my back with it. I had a broken gear on the Newmar slideout that had to be replaced.

What get's me with the slideout instruction is where it says "DO NOT hold the slide room switch past the point the
room is fully extended/retracted or damage may occur." Then in the next paragraph it says " For the weather seals to be effective, the slideout room MUST be completely extended/retracted." How exactly would I know if I do this. I push the button until it stops.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

but could not get scheduled for 6 months, so I ordered a OEM Lippert replacement actuator without the motor on Amazon did it myself.

Must be frustrating after being convinced of the value of an extended warranty by the salesman, so you pony up the $ for it only to have wait times basically force you to fix it yourself anyway. Will they at least pay for the part?

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Country Campers
Looking at your forensic pictures of the actuator. I'm have a hard time determining what/where the clutch actually is. When the slide is at the end of movement and you get that clank, clank, clank before your reaction time gets your finger off the switch. where is that noise coming from?