Slide out not working, only clicking

[TedS]

I think you are in for a drive replacement.

[Jlawles2]

I wonder if you can get just the bellevillle spring washers if its just the clutch? Did LCI send you a parts diagram for the motor?

I would consider pulling the motor apart since it has that much amp draw to see what's going on inside there. The armature may be "dirty" and just need a good polishing. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...8Quvg&usqp=CAU

I would also replace the slide switch in the control panel. If the switch contacts are starting to wear it could have lead to reduced amperage and voltage to the motor which has caused the motor issues.

[howson]

Dave27 ,
I'm leaning toward's a motor, too, but it could still be a mechanical binding issue that the motor can't overcome. That last movement of the slide when it closes-- could it somehow be binding the actuator due to worn wear tabs on one or both of the outer arm assemblies?

That's speculation on my part as I've never seen worn wear tabs or attempted to measure them, but it would explain why once that "binding" is overcome the slide moves fine in and out.

I'm going to go out and look at my slide rails to see if they are even visible with the slide in or out. I'll report back in a few minutes.

The pic below is an LCI document showing what is being referenced.

[howson]

I can't see the white wear tab, but the top ones are visible. There appears to be a small gap between the inner arm assembly and that wear tab when fully extended. When fully closed there is almost or no gap. (Hard to see with the slide in.)

SLIDE OUT


SLIDE IN



While taking pics I noticed a square opening in the outer arm assembly where it meets the trailer's frame.



I stuck my finger inside and there's a definite gap between the inner and outer assemblies when the slide is closed. How much of a gap? Difficult to measure. I cut small pieces of cardboard and traced with a pencil. Measures ~ 7mm.


Only other suggestion I have is to count the number of teeth visible on both inner arm assemblies to ensure the slide isn't skewed off at an angle when closed. Tough to get good pictures, but it looks like 13 on mine (both sides).


If all that looks similar...probably the motor, but that's an expensive decision I leave up to you.

Good luck.

Howard

P.S. All of the info in this post is 100% speculation...I could be way out in left field as I have very little practical experience with these slides myself. What you read in this post is a combination of book knowledge and what little experience I do have and what I'd be checking to see if I could find anything obviously wrong.

[Dave27]

Dave27

Hi Dave,

I think Brian is correct . . . your (our) vintage of Reflections do not have these controllers (at least mine does not). The reversing switches in the main panel simply control relays in the front compartment above the battery. I suspect the wiring to these relays is loose or the extend relay is malfunctioning. You should be seeing voltage at the slide motor that is almost the same as voltage at the battery. If not, there is a wiring problem between the two. It should be fairly simple the "jump" the terminal posts of each relay to see if one of the relays is the problem.

Rob

I don't remember seeing relays in the battery compartment. Maybe with the other testing I've done it's not relevant now. But if it could be an issue, I don't want to bypass it.
thanks, Dave

[Jlawles2]

Cate&Rob Dave27 Rob, post #74 he stated he jumped straight to the motor if I read that correctly. Dave if that is not what you did, you may want to try disconnecting the leads on the motor and use the truck battery (while running of course) to try and move the slide. I do think at minimum you are in for a clutch replace or repair. If possible, can you pull the motor apart to see if the armature is black or corroded like the picture link I sent? This will cause lots of issues up to and including failure of contacts (had armature eating relays by burning up the contacts due to high amp draw).

Before you pull the motor apart, look on the back side to see if there are any small holes about 180 degrees apart, these will be for pins to retain the brushes durning reassembly. if not, you may need to see if the other end comes off so you can load the armature into the brushes then stab that back through the magnets in the outer case.

[Cate&Rob]

Dave27
Hi Dave,

I am thinking towards something binding in the slide drive or alignment system. How would the motor know where the slide is in its travel range? . . . except when the slide comes up against its end stops . . . or significant resistance from some other cause. If the motor drives the slide properly some of the time, there is something binding up the slide travel when the motor won't move it easily.

Rob

[Dave27]

Cate&Rob Dave27 Rob, post #74 he stated he jumped straight to the motor if I read that correctly. Dave if that is not what you did, you may want to try disconnecting the leads on the motor and use the truck battery (while running of course) to try and move the slide. I do think at minimum you are in for a clutch replace or repair. If possible, can you pull the motor apart to see if the armature is black or corroded like the picture link I sent? This will cause lots of issues up to and including failure of contacts (had armature eating relays by burning up the contacts due to high amp draw).

Before you pull the motor apart, look on the back side to see if there are any small holes about 180 degrees apart, these will be for pins to retain the brushes durning reassembly. if not, you may need to see if the other end comes off so you can load the armature into the brushes then stab that back through the magnets in the outer case.

I connected the truck battery directly to the motor and described it in post #74.

[Dave27]

Dave27
Hi Dave,

I am thinking towards something binding in the slide drive or alignment system. How would the motor know where the slide is in its travel range? . . . except when the slide comes up against its end stops . . . or significant resistance from some other cause. If the motor drives the slide properly some of the time, there is something binding up the slide travel when the motor won't move it easily.

Rob

I called Lippert and that is what they think. They suggest it is the Actuator. I went through all the electrical measurements I made and how the system responds, and he thinks the Actuator could explain what is happening. It costs $400, so I'm trying to think of anything else I should do before ordering it. Any suggestions?
thanks, Dave

[Cate&Rob]

I called Lippert and that is what they think. They suggest it is the Actuator. I went through all the electrical measurements I made and how the system responds, and he thinks the Actuator could explain what is happening. It costs $400, so I'm trying to think of anything else I should do before ordering it. Any suggestions?
thanks, Dave

If you drive the slide through it’s full travel by hand with the over ride, you might be able to feel where it binds up. One way to do this would be with a drill set to screw driving mode with a clutch release adjustable for different size screws. The clutch set for moving the slide in the easy travel section will release if something binds. The binding might be something to do with slide box fit in the wall opening . . . not the drive mechanism at all.

Rob

[Dave27]

If you drive the slide through it’s full travel by hand with the over ride, you might be able to feel where it binds up. One way to do this would be with a drill set to screw driving mode with a clutch release adjustable for different size screws. The clutch set for moving the slide in the easy travel section will release if something binds. The binding might be something to do with slide box fit in the wall opening . . . not the drive mechanism at all.

Rob

That is the $400 (or more) question. When I use the manual override with a socket wrench, I feel early resistance to move it out of the closed position. After that it is very easy to move it. Listening to the motor, it only strains near when it is fully extended, and near to completely closed.
Dave

[gbkims]

I didn't swap out the gears because they moved smoothly when I moved them by hand and when I ran them by themselves with a battery. I put the motor and gearbox back on so I could try to manually open the slide out. It opens easily manually. I hooked the motor up, and can open and close it, but it has the same symptoms my wife originally noticed. When the switch is pushed open, the clank of the clutch is heard. Push in, the clank of the clutch is heard, but now when out is pushed, it opens.
Dave

Dave Dave27
Did the gear set you got include the clutch?
If the slide isn't binding at end of travel by hand, maybe the original clutch/bellevelle springs have weakened.

Side question, I couldn't tell from your photo of the motor/gearbox, is it the PN 8532-18HT 9100 RPM w 40" Actuator.

[Cate&Rob]

That is the $400 (or more) question. When I use the manual override with a socket wrench, I feel early resistance to move it out of the closed position. After that it is very easy to move it. Listening to the motor, it only strains near when it is fully extended, and near to completely closed.
Dave

When the slide box reaches end of travel (in either direction) the flanges come up against the sidewall to align the box with the wall and compress the seals all around. This would definitely increase load on the motor and eventually release the clutch. Maybe . . . the motor is strong enough to drive the mid travel section, but has become too weak to drive the more heavily loaded travel towards the ends.

Are there any RV parts recyclers (used parts) in your area? I have seen complete slide drive units for far less than the price of new. Bontragers comes to mind. https://bontragers.com

Rob

[Dave27]

Dave Dave27
Did the gear set you got include the clutch?
If the slide isn't binding at end of travel by hand, maybe the original clutch/bellevelle springs have weakened.

Side question, I couldn't tell from your photo of the motor/gearbox, is it the PN 8532-18HT 9100 RPM w 40" Actuator.

The LCI PN is 168956 12vdc 30amp. From the Grand Design parts look up it's 170003 : ACTUATOR-40" W/ HIGH SPEED MOTOR 18:1 VENTURE

[Jlawles2]

Dave27 you are in to it for a motor by the sounds of it. i would pull that motor apart and see whats inside. no reason to pay $400 for something a $10 bottle of rubbing compound can fix. Worst case you cant fix the motor so you still need to buy one.